Problems after Rebuild?

[supra77r]

97 F150 2wd 4.2L.....4R70W Tranny.
My direct clutch burned up and I lost 3rd and 4th gear, so I pulled tranny and replaced direct clutch pack. All other friction and steels looked good and didn’t replace them. Replaced all sealing rings and as many seals as possible and gaskets. Put tranny back on truck.
On take off in Reverse the truck hesitates bad. A good way to describe it is it feels like it would if you had your back brakes(emergency) applied and try to reverse. Eventually it stops.
Then when I put it in Drive to go it does the same thing but very mildly compared to Reverse and stops once I get going. The is no more hesitation at all after that. Another thing is that it doesn’t seem like it shifts right. Randomly it will downshift on light acceleration around 55mph. I’m not even sure if that’s a problem or not yet because I haven’t drove it enough for the computer to completely reset and get used to the driving, because I have unplugged the battery so many times in between to mess with other stuff(blinker switch etc..). When I press the OD Off button the light comes on but no effect (downshift) at all. I’m not even sure OD is working or not either. It’s hard for me to tell how many shifts I get because when I was removing the tranny and couldn’t get the exhaust off in one piece so I cut the muffler off (long story). So it is kind of loud. Also it shifts SO SMOOTH that it is very hard to count shifts or even tell. I am able to drive it on the highway at high speeds 70mph 75mph and seems like my rpms are ok and not high. Hard for me to tell exactly what they are because I have no RPM gauge.
One other thing that is happening is on acceleration around 20mph - about 45 randomly it will make a clicking tapping knocking noise rapidly which sounds like its coming from the tranny but not sure cause only does it when I’m accelerating and cant check it good. I can usually avoid the noise if I barely press the gas pedal and ease up to past 40mph.
Also I do have a VERY SMALL leak. I get about 1 to 2 tiny drops leak every 20 miles that comes out the TC bottom inspect plug.
I’m pretty much stumped now. The truck drives good and smooth once you get going but I know if I don’t take care of these things then it will screw up soon. Could any of this be the rear end? Like maybe the rear diff causing the shudder and hesitation on take off in REV and D? Maybe the exhaust to manifold bolt plates causing the noise? Doubt that because it sounds exactly like a VB valve tapping rapidly to me. Any help would be great..

 

[toy720]

Hey supra I thought maybe you found the problem since we have not heard from you in a while. I tell you what I live in west ft.worth if you yank the tranny out Bring it to me I(we could go through the rebuild together) for free. you supply the parts I have a pretty good connections on parts at aaaa tranny by the stockyards Pm me if this sounds like something you might want to do. If not then at least take it to a tranny shop and let them diagnose make them run pressure tests on it. of course they will always tell you you need a rebuild but tell them you rebuilt it and explain the symptoms and that all you want is a diagnosis if they wont do a pressure check move on to another shop. Almost sounds like its binding up like on a 4r55e if you got the bands to tight but the reverse has no adjustment nor does the overdrive so ??????????

 

[supra77r]

Assembly Details 1

Case Body: Cleaned and painted outside part of case.
Sprayed case were it meets VB down with brake cleaner and compressed air. Sanded and scotch brite case top passages and accum. And servo bores. There was no bad wear at all anywhere in any of bores or servo bores. The case rear end bore was in my opinion not worn very much at all. I don’t know if that bore comes made without a bushing in it or not but mine did not have a bushing in there. I didn’t do anything with it except sand it with very fine grit to smooth it and quick scotch brite. The lip in the front of the housing were the pump sits against there is a very small nick in it were my dumb ass used a flathead when I was trying to remove the pump and didn’t know I needed to pull it using bolts. Anyways so there was a small nick in it that I forgot to sand and smooth out which may have a big factor on my problems that I will mention later.

ON assembly:
Output shaft, ring gear, direct clutch. Replaced the 3 metal sealing rings and 2 scarf cut on output shaft with NEW ones. I didn’t use the solid seals on the output shaft stub because of time and money (don’t have the sizing tool/installer or the seals). Local Tranny guy said they would be fine. Direct clutch all NEW steels and frictions, NEW inner and outer piston seals. Then went the large snap ring, then reverse band (reused old one, perfect) and NEW reverse servo and cover. Just to note I reused all springs and snap rings (no need for replacing). Installing the reverse servo seemed kind of tight to push down and it took a couple times of removing and reinstalling to work. I’m just hoping I didn’t mess the servo seals up when I was installing it. The rod fit on the band groove, but didn’t seem to go dead center all the way down into the groove but looked to me like it would at least stay in the groove. Figured that when everything’s in and tranny is functioning that it would compress and fall more into its place in the band groove. Anyways put cover on, snap ring and done. Planetary and support looked good and used old ones. Checked the rollers and looked good. Installed the Planetary and support next. Wasn’t easy to get in, but finally got it in. Also just to note, I remember the reverse band when I put the servo on it, it compressed the band only in the center which makes sense but just looked weird. I’m pretty sure I got the Planetary and support all the way in the band. At least if I didn’t everything else wouldn’t have lined up so perfect like they did I would think? Then anti-clunk spring and the support snap ring. The support snap ring had both ends upturned on mine. I spent a good amount of time making sure it went in a good place were it wouldn’t be jumping around or in the way. Then sun gear (reused old one), sun shell (reused old one). The sun shell grooves were the reverse clutch dog ears go were worn a little. The wear was Maybe a hair more then the pics Glacier has on his rebuild (both the shell and reverse clutch dog ears had wear). Next the stub shaft (old one, perfect), forward clutch hub (old one), and forward clutch (old one). I took the steels and frictions out of the forward clutch and cleaned them, soaked them and reinstalled. The frictions were all id say about 80% close to perfect except the two ends. The one at the farthest to top of drum was worn down in one spot. The one farthest to the bottom was worn down on one spot also. Noticing that they were wearing on the both ends I switched them out with the other ones in the center and put those in the center area. The 2 sealing rings were solid sealing rings and were in good shape so I didn’t touch those. I did not go any farther in the forward clutch then that. I figured the piston seals were still good cause they were functioning before and didn’t have any lip seal protectors or special compressor. I installed it and it seemed to be all the way in and far back as possible but it bothered me cause it kind of was loose and would hang and almost fall out if I didn’t hold it.

 

[supra77r]

Assembly Details Continued

Continued..

Next the Reverse clutch (reused old one). The dog ears were worn a little but not horrible. Smoothed them out a little. Took frictions and steels out (looked basically perfect) and cleaned and soaked, then reinstalled. Note: My tranny already had the updated mechanical diode installed. Did not go any further in (looked very, very clean). Installed the Reverse clutch. This part I am little worried about. I couldn’t get the clutch dog ears to sit very far at all in the shell. I don’t remember how they were when I removed it, but I could only get them to go about just enough were they were actually all the way in the notch. I don’t think they even went half way in the notch. Unless they go farther in eventually after been driven? I had to be really careful because It would fall out of the notches and its place if I didn’t hold it or be real careful (keep in mind my tranny is sitting horizontal on a table during the assembly) and not shake anything to much or it would fall out before I could get the OD band. I say loose, but probly not really, it’s just me because I am usually a perfectionist and want things to fit real good. Next the OD band. Soaked and installed NEW OD band. Installed servo and snap ring. I could not get the rod to sit all the way deep in the band notch, but it was holding and in position and would fall in place as soon as it was compressed or functioning on the truck I would think? I don’t know if that matters but it was on the notch and lined up, it just wasn’t all the way down, it was kind of towards the top of the notch and still seemed like it would engage. Next the intermediate clutch pack. The pressure plate I reused and it was perfect shape. All the steels and frictions were like new and reused them. Installed plates, frictions and steels. Next the pump. Reused old pump. Disassemble and cleaned thoroughly. Replaced pump piston seal with NEW, pump sealing rings replaced with NEW and outer pump seal with NEW. Installed NEW gasket and pump thrust washer. Seated it and put sealant on bolts and torqued to spec. Here is were I might have messed up. I was saying earlier that the case had a little nick in it that I had forgotten about and didn’t sand and smooth out. Well when I put the pump on and seated it, it nicked the outer seal a little bit. I mean very very small micro piece cut off, but probly not good. I’m thinking this is why I have a very small slow leak that comes out of the TC bottom inspect hole about 2 drops every 15miles. Disassemble VB and cleaned all valves, springs, etc. and lubed. Replaced all VB gaskets with NEW. The VB looked pretty good. The 1-2 accum. Was the updated rubber one and was perfect, so I reused old one and springs and installed. The 2-3 accum. Also I reused old one and it was in good shape too. Installed VB, torqued to spec and pattern. Reused old solenoids. There appearance was clean and I checked there resistance and they all tested good. One thing that bothered me was that the TCC solenoid had a very small plastic piece broke off at the tip were it inserts into the VB. Didn’t seem like it would effect it but I don’t know. I will be replacing that TCC solenoid as soon as possible just in case. Could it be possible that it is causing my problems im having? I don’t think so and my tranny guy said it wouldn’t either. Reused old EPC solenoid also. Installed all solenoids and connectors. Installed NEW filter and grommet. Installed drain plug in pan and the pan. Installed the TC all the way in. I reused my old TC. It looked really clean from what you can see in the hole. I never ever have had any kind of shudder from this TC at all. I wish I had the money to replace the TC with NEW one but I didn’t. I drained it as much as I could. I know it’s really not that good for me to use my old TC but had no choice. Could my TC be causing my problems? Never had any problems before. But maybe it’s bad now? Not sure. Id like to get a new one sometime, but want to wait until I get whatever I need to get that I need to fix these tranny problems first. Maybe it’s that I need? OK installed tranny, connected all connectors etc..etc. Line/adjusted DTR and installed and I get my Reverse lights in reverse.

Notes:
I did not check or measure any clearances on the rebuild. I figure that I didn’t change anything that would change any clearance, so I just reused the same thrust washer. Keep in mind the rebuild was done with tranny sitting horizontal on a table and removed and installed with truck on ramps only and no tranny jack either. I sanded and cleaned and scotch brited all parts that needed. One thing I wanted to mention that I’m not sure matters is that when I was assembling the tranny I was soaking my frictions and bands in Mercon 3 and after I installed the tranny I ended up using Mercon V. Big deal? I don’t think so, but not sure. Well, I probly forgot to mention quite a bit of stuff but the main things I did. I am aware of leaving out all the bearings because I know they are good and installed correctly. Please if anyone knows any input or anything that might have caught there attention it would be a huge help to hear from you.

Also I needed to add that today when I was driving it and say im going 50mph or so and let off the gas it goes straight to a idle rpm(low). at least i think it does, it feels and sounds like it, but have no rpm gauge. Basically it everytime i let off the gas it goes to a idle state rpm instead of braking slowly. If I put it in 1st or 2nd and let off the gas it works fine and brakes rpm slowly and doesnt go straight to idle. just thought i needed to add that info. Again any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to get this fixed so BAD!

Im going to try and take it to a tranny shop today and get them to pressure test it and computer test it. So I should be able to find somewhere that will do those tests for free? Does anyone know what places do for free? Probly just up to the shop, but they usually do it for free huh? I assume they will drain it to look inside a little? If so, then I really hope they keep and reuse my just bought EXPENSIVE Mercon V.

 

[supra77r]

Took the truck to a Tranny shop today. They only had the computer test. It had no codes wrong with it just as I thought. I went to 5 tranny shops trying to get some kind of more detail diagnosis help but none of them want to do pressure tests. I was getting tired of listening to there BS. Of course they all said it needed a rebuild and couldnt tell or help me with anything else.

 

[toy720]

Typical

 

[quasarsky]

Sure is. I'm going to try and find a shop to do some tests on mine as well soon.