Pull Engine to Change Timing Chain?

[bandlow]

95 XLT 4WD OHV 107,000 miles.

It's beginning to look like the clicking noise is the timing chain/tensioner. I also want to change the crankshaft seal while I'm in there (minor seepage).

The Ford Service Manual and Haynes say the engine has to come out. Chilton doesn't say but implies it can be done with the engine in the vehicle.

Has anyone done the chain and tensioner without pulling the engine? Any tips if you have? (e.g. loosen oil pan bolts and engine mounts and hoist engine slightly.)

If the sprockets are worn can the lower one be changed with the engine in? Any trouble aligning the timing marks?

Does doing it the "easy way" (engine in) wind up being harder than doing it the "hard way" (engine pull)? Does it open you up to other problems? (oil pan leaks etc.)

Any "might as wells" while I'm in there? (water pump for example).

If I have to pull it I will probably go ahead and tear it down to and inspect/replace as necessary. (I was hoping to do that closer to 200,000 miles than 100,000!)

Lots of questions! All opinions welcome. Actual experience greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rich

 

[mdrut]

I have never changed it on my Ex, but have changed several chains and belts. All were done with the engine in vehicle. I'm guessing it is like any other V-block, pull the radiator, hoses, belts, pumps and alt, walterpump, timing cover and there it is...Like I said, I have never done the Ex., but I don't see why it couldn't be done.

 

[SteveVB]

most likely yes...

You should be able to do it with the engine in- I did mine with the engine out during a rebuild , so I dont know for sure but something to watchout for:

You are going to have to remove four maybe five bolts from the front of the oil pan. (a couple are torx head if I remember correctly, you will need a good set of torx head tools inside the engine FYI) The timing cover rests on the oil pan- the big problem is that the oil pan gasket is a large rubber o-ring type seal that fits in a machined groove in the pan so it is one piece all the way around. If you pull the timing cover and rip that gasket you will need to pull the engine to replace it, or your going to have a leak at the pan rail where the block and the timing cover meet. I would chemically clean this area and add a button of Black RTV in the corner for insurance, the o-ring gasket uses no sealer except for a drop at the corners of the crankshaft circles.

With the radiator out I think there should be enough room to get to everything else.

Good luck