question for all you ranger guru s

[bobistheoilguy]

would the computer cause a 98 ranger to act like it's running out of gas?

I'll give you some history on this engine, I got this truck missing, upon getting it I first changed the 8 plugs and wires, did a compression chk, 115,115,100 and 100. changed both coils, changed fuel filter, then run a pressure test to find it had 65lbs at the rail on fuel pressure. still missing on plug 3, put my ear up to all injectors(using a screwdriver), all are clicking, no fuel in oil, changed the negative battery terminal, then run it for 10 miles.. still wont idle, will eventually die while idling, while driving I put the gas to the floor, dogs out, then let off the gas, it starts to pickup.

any other ideas and can anyone answer my question about the computer?...
bob

 

[BrooklynBay]

Do you have any engine codes?

 

[TooManyTrucks]

Pressure might be there but not the volume..when was the last fuel filter change?

 

[bobistheoilguy]

question for all you ranger gurus, hope this right dir..

to answer your questions, yes, the filter has been changed as I posted in my prior post.

I went down to autozone and used a specialized tool to check the fuel at the rail. never seen a pump put out the pressure and not volume. whats the difference?

it had a code that translated to missing on cly 3

still any can tell me if a computer can cause the truck to act like it has no gas?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The computer controls the engine (timing, firing the spark plugs, injector pulse width, etc). What was the code number?

 

[bobistheoilguy]

i don't remember. I had autozone chk the computer and I remember it transalted to cyl 3 missing

 

[5.0]

Mine acted similar to yours and even had a Cylinder 3 misfire code along with an evap code (evap code not related) and I tried almost everything, but nothing helped. I swapped in a 302 and tore the 4 banger apart later and found a blown head gasket on the #1 cylinder. I never checked my compression though since I lost the little adapter thing for the tester. Your compression numbers are all similar, but I don't know how much a blown head gasket would cause the numbers to change?

 

[bobistheoilguy]

question for all you ranger gurus,

I am still wondering what else it might be.. while driving it, it bogs out when I give it gas, but then when I let off, it picks right back up. btw, I did put new high test gas and and additive in just to make sure it wasn't bad gas, as well as I show a quarter tank of fuel in it.


I just saw your post 5.0, I kinda thought that too, that's why the compression test. while taking out the plugs, they were not wet as some might be, it doesn't overheat putting pressure back into the radiator and I put a piece of paper on my exhaust and it doesn't suck in the paper if any exhaust valves are bad,(that would suck in and out the paper)

I'm thinking of driving it down to advance auto and let those guys put on the computer and retest the codes again with someone else.

any so what else do you think I should check for ?

 

[5.0]

Another thing to look at to detect a blown head gasket is the white part (porcelain?) of the plug.

Notice the red color spots on the end of the plug on the left? This plug was in the #1 cylinder that had the blown gasket.

 

[bobistheoilguy]

question for all you ranger gurus,

no I've not had anything like that. so I don't think a blown head gasket would be the problem. like I said, no pressure in radiator, no blowby, not sucking paper in the exhaust, and crompression looks good, so I don't think a blown head gasket would be at fault. keep giving me ideas, I really do appreciate your trying.

 

[bobistheoilguy]

I have been working on this and....

now, I want your opinion on what you might think..
I've decided since I have compression, changed all the plugs and wires, coil, and put a new fuel pump assembly with a new fuel filter, and it still misses on number 3, I was wondering, what would you try first,... the cam sensor or the the injector? I'm down to that thinking maybe this is the problem. since I have good compression on my clys, and I know I have good spark what would you try.. sensor or injector? bob

 

[Tbars4]

...I'm confused...

...What size motor do you have? Your first post says 8 plugs so I am guessing a 2.3L? But then you mentioned changing the coil but you should have 2 coil packs if you have 8 plugs...Unless you have a V8 swap..

...As mentioned before, getting your code(s) and bringing them here would be the first thing to do to help diagnose this..

...From what you have described so far it could be a fuel pump going bad, a clogged injector, MAF, IAC, or the computer...I'm guessing two different items...

...You could try swapping the #3 fuel injector with another one...

 

[bobistheoilguy]

...What size motor do you have? it's the 4 cyl engine, not sure without going out and popping the hood to see the actual numbers on the engine.

Your first post says 8 plugs so I am guessing a 2.3L? But then you mentioned changing the coil but you should have 2 coil packs if you have 8 plugs... I bought another coil no change, so I used the first coil and replaced the 2nd coil with again no change. again no change. yes, 2 coils on the 4 cyl engine. no distributor.

...As mentioned before, getting your code(s) and bringing them here would be the first thing to do to help diagnose this.. I haven't checked the code since I started to work on this thing, so I can't tell you the actual number. sorry.

...From what you have described so far it could be a fuel pump going bad, I had thought so, so I replaced the whole fuel pump assembly with a new fuel pump, and pickup filter.. and put a new fuel filter on also. again, no change.

a clogged injector, the more I think about it, I'm thinking of pulling my injectors and replacing them next. this will eliminate those next. instead of checking those things which I would normally do, I have to pull the intake off just to get those things, so I just thought it would be easier to just replace them.

MAF, IAC, or the computer... can either of these items cause a dead miss on one cyl? what about a cam sensor? it was just running fine before. Its suppose to have had a new head on it, so I don't think it is a bad cam, although I haven't pulled the valve cover to check it. it suppose to have happened quickly as far as they told me. I'm just taking their word for it. (as you know, it could go either way).

...You could try swapping the #3 fuel injector with another one... as pointed out, if already down that far, I'll just replace injectors

 

[Tbars4]

...Take the time to get your codes read and it will save time and money...

...What exact plugs and wires are you running and where do you buy your parts? Autozone?

...Knowing the particular's like what size motor, mileage, what brand plugs, wires, coil packs, what your old plugs looked like, and where you buy your parts are very important in diagnosis of your problem.

...I'm not a mechanic but your compression check sounds a little low, especially after having a head replacement...

...I hate to see you throwing money at this and not getting any results...

 

[bobistheoilguy]

...Take the time to get your codes read and it will save time and money...

...What exact plugs and wires are you running and where do you buy your parts? Autozone? yes, I have always been buying from autozone. I put ngk plugs on this motor. I will not use champion plugs on a ford. I know some people don't like them(autozone), but I am not the average guy. I compare parts, have a mechanic background (a roving mechanic and military working on forklifts, tow tractors, cars, and trucks. also had two computer stores for 12 yrs, 9 techs worked with me. went to school for electronics when I got out of the navy a long time ago. anyway, enough. computers only tell you what kind of problem it is having, in this case missing cyl 3. unless something is bad, like a sensor,... guess what, while I was typing this it just dawned on me, it most likely going to be an injector, as sensors will show bad on read outs. of course, it wont show a bad injector that isn't spraying, even if it does work. so I agree, injector would be my next choice. thank you for your input. it really helps talking about it. (btw, I was working on my other truck one day when a guy pulled up to autozone and it was backfiring thew the exhaust. he was going in and I mentioned, you going to get a set of points? he had a older jeep, he said he had just left pepboys and they put it on the computer and told him he had bad gas and he needed to get gas treatment. I told him, get some points and I'll put them in, and if that doesn't solve your problem, I'll buy the points and he wont be out any thing. after putting his points in, it run perfectly, and he went back to them to get his money back. point is, computers are not perfect. they just tell you where to look.

btw, when I first started checking this, I placed a long screwdriver on each injector and all were clicking, meaning all were turning on and off and had vcc to them. but I never pulled them out while I had the intake off and replaced all plugs and wires. I had no carbon build up on any plugs, and none were wet. I know I have 123,000 miles on the odometer. they had told me they had just recently put a new head on there. so I suspect that they must have over heated the engine and cracked and/or warped the old head. I had pulled the front apart and they had a new timing belt on there. while apart, I checked the timing. I know if you don't redo the rings and replace the head it can have higher compression on the head and cause the oil to blow by the rings.


...Knowing the particular's like what size motor, mileage, what brand plugs, wires, coil packs, what your old plugs looked like, and where you buy your parts are very important in diagnosis of your problem. I agree, not all parts are equal, but I have seen a lot of high end companies, nampa for example, buy the same parts, and even some high parts, can be bad even though they are new. you a I both know that. but you need to know a lot, don't depend on others in a lot of cases.

...I'm not a mechanic but your compression check sounds a little low, especially after having a head replacement...

...I hate to see you throwing money at this and not getting any results...: I wholly agree with you. I hate to throw money away also.

 

[Tbars4]

...No pup here...

...I too am from the old school and was against computers in vehicles...While I'm still on the fence of there value on increasing fuel mileage on standard domestic vehicles, I am a fan of the OBDII diagnostics...

...You would be surprised at all the info a scanner can find on your Ranger when it threw the code...A good scanner has lot's of info stored in "Freeze Frame" at the time your vehicle throws a code...Knowing how to decipher the codes is a whole nother thing...It does not always show the item that created the fault but rather an item that resulted in a false value...

...I am taking a shot in the dark at this point but I believe the code you had was P0303...Common items to check for this continuing code would be and how I would cheaply/quickly test them before buying parts, only after reading the code and all the "Freeze Frame" info on the scanner...This is just my opinion after things my 2.3L has taught me...

1) Plug or wire on cylinder 3...On the 2.3L I would swap both #3 plugs and wires out with another from the same engine to see if the code jumps to another cylinder...I would also inspect the plug for deposits as 5.0 had posted and be aware of plugs that look steam cleaned too (they don't have to be wet)...Another item which has been showing up is cracked plugs and bad wires when bought new...You mentioned you have NGK plugs and if I'm not mistaken your 2.3L requires Autolight double platinum...You might check into that also as it may be your cause...I am still not sold on your compression results or head gasket but I could be wrong...

2) Coil Packs... The 2.3L has 2 as mentioned earlier...(One is a primary and one is a secondary)...Problems with the primary can result in a no run or flashing CEL condition) Common problems with these are in random order a) bad coil pack when bought new in the box (and can even be tested for free at AZ), b) bad ground, c) bad, broken, or loose connection at the plug, Swapping these coil packs with each other, verifying grounds, connections, and clearing the code before test driving...

3) Injectors...You mentioned testing them but there are also voltage test you can do to verify you don't have a bad wire or short(search the Forum), or it may be clogged...

...Just my opinion here...

...As for AZ...I use them regular and have for years...When they were "Chief" out here they were great until they started their lifetime warranty...Then they became Autozone and their warranty parts last shorter period of time...It is very common to see failed items from AZ on this Forum such as relays, fuel pumps, coils, alternators, etc...The failures seem to come as quick as a couple weeks to 6 months leaving the owners to go thru this all again...I am very frugal but there are things I can not afford to buy at AZ as I can't afford to be stranded that often anymore...

....A couple things I would like to add on my way out...

...We have a couple guys here that know more about the 2.3L than I will ever want to know....If you proceed with these basics and get no results in the near future, I am sure they will jump in here..

...I am a fan of the 2.3L although it is not a power horse, it is a strong motor...Mine has over 185,000 miles as of today and drives like it's new...

...And I wish I had a dollar for every set of points I have gapped...I would have, Well...:scratch:...I would have more Rangers...

 

[bobistheoilguy]

thanks tbar.. there are more to look at, and I figured that there would be more people on here that has the same kind of experience that I have. I remember when az was chief and I too used to buy all my parts from them when I was back in texas. there is a lot that I don't know, that's why I'm here.

as for plugs, it's been a while since I changed them, if memory serves, I now recall, they were original parts that az had suggested on their computer. so they are the correct ones. the same problem exist that I started out with, so after changing the wires, coils, and plugs, I still have the same problem. if a different problem arised , I would think maybe something there was wrong, but not yet. all plugs that were pulled though looked normal, which I wanted to use the old plugs, but I figured since I had them out, just replace with new.

I think the code was 303 like you said, and it had suggested that maybe a vacuum leak among some other suggestions, so I checked them to make sure. so after doing what they suggested, I'm trying other things... I've been trying other things, but common sense leads me to the injectors / injector. I still believe that a computer can only lead you so far, and it will tell you the area the problem exists, but unless it has a positive failure, you have to follow your best guess. I'll let you know what I find out. thanks for your all input as to what you think. I'll get back with you when I find out what it is. btw, I have an old saying I use,"persistence overcomes resistance" I'll get it, just keep trying.