Quick Disconnects for the rear

[ChrisW]

I am converting my front sway bar to be quick disconnect per the instructions given by mattb. I thought it would be nice to also convert the rear but I don't quite see how to do this. If you disconnect the rear the sway bar is still connected to the axle. What do you do with the sway bar to keep it fron hanging down and getting beat up? Where can you tie it off to to keep it out of the way? The frame looks good but then what is the point of disconnecting it from the frame to turn around and try to tie it off to the frame. If anyone has pictures of a rear quick diconnect that would be helpfull.

Thanks,
ChrisW

 

[Paul Gagnon]

How about disconnecting it from the rear end and then securing it to the frame?

 

[JAY]

Chris, when I disconnect my rear sway bar I leave the actual sway bar attached to the axle and use two 6" bungee cords attached to the ends of the bar to secure it to the frame. I've been using this technique on my Explorer for two years now and the only problem I've had was worn out bungee cords.

 

[ChrisW]

Thanks for the info Jay. I had not thought of bungee cords. I will pick some up tonight after work. Does the same thing work for the rear as the front? (replacing the bolts with tine pins?)It looks like it should work. I will start soaking to bolts today so I can take them off tomorrow. That made a huge difference for the front.
Paul, Have you looked under the rear to see where the sway bar bolts to the axle? You cannot make four 7/16" bolts quick disconnct. I would love to try, but I don't think it will work.

Thanks for the info guys.
ChrisW

 

[Paul Gagnon]

Chris,

Sorry what am I thinking. That will only work if you are spring over. It works no problem for me and the four little bolts are not that much trouble. Also these bolts would be very easy to replace with some sort of hitch/linch pin combo.

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Paul Gagnon
Dead Link Removed

 

[ChrisW]

I was able to get the bolts out finally but the bushings came with them I then was able to soak the bolts in some wd40 and get the bushings back off and put them back in. The tine pins for the front work for the rear as well. Paul, I will be able to bungie to the frame and it looks like it will work fine. I was going to take the bungie up and over the spare from one side to the other. It all looks like it will work fine. Now all I need to do is put my new shocks on when I get them. Disconnecting the sway bar right now makes no difference since the factory shocks only have 3.5" of travel. The new ones will have 7" front and 10" rear. I can't wait.

Thanks again,
ChrisW