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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
One of the biggest advantages I noticed (with mine and with a 2nd gen.) is the reduction in the side to side jarring that occurs when you are crawling.
I don't use quick discos to disconnect my front swaybar. I just take a wrench and a ratchet and undo the factory endlink bolts. I have it down to about 3 minutes and I disco the front bar while my auto airdowns deflate the tires.
I do the same thing as Alec. The front is really easy to disconnect and since you only need to remove one side, it only takes a few minutes. I haven't bothered removing the rear bar though since it is a little more involved. I wouldn't mind putting the Warrior quick disconnects on the rear though but at about $100 I am thinking of just making my own.
I do the same as Alec and Robert. I just have a cheap set of wrenches that I carry in the truck for this... The ride of road is much smoother and more supple. It gives you that extra bit of travel, and on my front end, i will take what I can get...
The front bar stays up on it's own. Sometimes I put a bungie on it to keep it from rotating down. Your rear bar will need a bungie to the frame to keep it from rotating down.
I have always removed both sides since my bushings were tight enough to keep my bar centered wherever I put it. With my new swaybar though the bushing isn't quite as tight and the bar will flop down. There were several people that said that they just disconnect one side so I figured that would be the way I would go from now on. I'll disconnect one side and see what the chances are of the free side banging into my control arm. That was a concern. I can see if one tire was up all the way and the other down all the way that it might happen so I'll test drive it first.
Here is the link to the ones I made for my ranger, It worked quite well and is what I am doing for my ex. If you have a duel shock setup it won't work without some extra fab work, also I'm not sure if it would work on a 2nd gen. I also added limiting straps since at the time I didn't have extended brake lines. http://kidkodiak.homestead.com/disconnect.html
I wouldnt recommend only unbolting one side of the front sway bar. If one side of the truck is compressed and the other side is unweighted the sway bar will actually bend the tierod. A friend of mine found this out the hard way.