RA Bushings | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

RA Bushings

when the time comes for my RA bushings to be changed i think i will do the grinding method as well,

i had to replace the Passenger side axle housing that i bent when i hit a ditch pretty hard, bought a 91 EB for 100 bucks and swapped out that side axle, it wasn't too bad but stuff was pretty rusty so after a lot of PB blaster, heat, swearing and bloody hands i got the job done :D
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Bolt to Replace the Rivets

Get grade 8 bolts ONLY. 7/16-14 Get 3 bolts about 1 1/4" long, and 1 about 3/4" long. (1" is ok as I recall)
 






i dont know how easy it is to grind them off but i used a air chisel. the little gun you use with the compressor. well a couple good hits knocked it off and then put a punch in it and knocked the other side out.
 






As everyone should realize by now.. there are zillion ways to skin this cat. Pick the method (grinding, drilling, or chiselling out the rivets or leave em in using a come-along) that you have the tools for and have at it! Let us know how it goes.
 






I'm almost in happy place again. Will try the grinding method when I'm prepared again - After meditation(medication???).

Forget the frontend drop on old 4x4 Xs. Too high of a posibility of breaking or bending something that could cost more than you want to put into an old vehicle. My .02
 












i just did mine this weekend i chose grinding, it took a long time but feel it will be woth it in the long run because i know i will need to replace them again and it will be much quicker the next time.
i'll type up a review of how i did it to give others an idea of the work invoved.
 






The follow up report.

Finaly finished mine two weeks ago. Had Sears air tools that came free with the 30 gal compressor. Turns out they're just toys. The gun couldn't loosen lugs that I could turn by hand, and the chisle bounced right off the rivets.

Anyway; Bought a $50 grinder from the Depot. Did the grinding thing. Then had some problems knocking out rivets because there was not enough room to swing a hammer. So; Remembering the thread, I decided to drill out what was left. I have to agree with Glacier that is probably the best way to go from the start. Even if you have to do some hammering, the rivet will collapse since it is completely hollowed out.
Remember I tried the drop front end meathod. Just forget that !

Duff
 






I have the same tools as you Duff and you’re right they suck a$$.

Here’s how the grinding method worked for me

1. First I ground down the rear rivet (when I ground down the rivets I made sure they were flush with the frame or the bracket, I couldn’t punch them out till there were completely flush).

2. After that I pried on the bracket till it popped off the rear rivet.

3. Next I ground down the front rivet and with a few blows of the hammer and punch the rivet came right out.

4. Once I got the bracket off I ground the rear rivet down flush with the frame and punched it right out.
 






Thanks for the follow up Duff and glad to hear the job's done... As you and many other people have discovered the freebe tools are just toys. They're probably ok at assembly work, but are worthless at dissassembly stuff. Don't waste your time or money buying a crappy impact gun, or air hammer as you get what you pay for.. I used to have a Sears 350ft/lb impact gun, but it was only good for lug nuts and nothing else.. My new Ingersoll Rand gun with 1,000ft/lbs puts a smile on my face whenever I fire it up.

phatmanforya said:
... Here’s how the grinding method worked for me
1. First I ground down the rear rivet (when I ground down the rivets I made sure they were flush with the frame or the bracket, I couldn’t punch them out till there were completely flush).

2. After that I pried on the bracket till it popped off the rear rivet.

3. Next I ground down the front rivet and with a few blows of the hammer and punch the rivet came right out.

4. Once I got the bracket off I ground the rear rivet down flush with the frame and punched it right out.

Nice write up... I did mine about the same way.. I ground the rivets flush and then tried to drive them out with my air hammer; it didn't work. The rivet was still held tightly in place by the frame and RA bracket. I then pried the bracket of the rivets and was able to drive them out since they weren't being held by the bracket any more.
 






DeRocha said:
I used to have a Sears 350ft/lb impact gun, but it was only good for lug nuts and nothing else.. My new Ingersoll Rand gun with 1,000ft/lbs puts a smile on my face whenever I fire it up.

I'll have to keep Ingersoll-Rand in mind when I get a new impact gun. I am not going to get a Craftsman compressor/air tools anyway.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top