RABS test connector? have i found it? | Ford Explorer Forums

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RABS test connector? have i found it?

SB98UKexplorer

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February 27, 2008
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City, State
UK croydon
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 explorer 4.0 SOHC v6
Im trying to find the connector for my ABS and iv only come across 2 in the engine bay, iv pulled my dash clocks out and looked all over under the dash to find one that is suppose to be there but isnt. in these pics are any of these the connector? top one is plug with 6 wires and just sits behinde the drivers headlamp, And the bottom one with a SINGLE wire in the plug thats plugged into a cap next to the ABS pump?
 

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I might be completely wrong on this:o but you say you are looking for a RABS connector which should be in the places I mentioned in the other post. I thought RABS is only on the early models - rear antilock braking only with one sensor, whereas you have a diff sensor and front wheel sensors (4WABS) for four wheel antilock braking. Do you have a diagnostic 16 pin connector below your steering column next to the hood catch like I do on my '97? I have been informed, but not guaranteed, that with four wheel ABS the diagnostic codes, which are alpha-numeric, have to be read through this connector. This requires a special code reader because they are alpha numeric - cannot be done with the ordinary code readers that most of us have. Somebody will probably shoot me down in flames on this one, but I thought I would chip in with this thought!!!!!
Richard
 






My dad had it previously about a year ago when he had taken it to a garage that suggested the rabs controller was at fualt, i always thought it was a 96 as alot of the parts on here are dated 96. yes there is a 16pin buy the hood release, i read that the code can only be taken when the ABS lights on after a fualt is detected and if you turn the engine off it clears it.
 






Looks like the only thing else that can be wrong is the ABS module like you say - you appear to have checked everything else. They do not seem that expensive on eBay - debateable whether to take a gamble and replace it, or fork out for a garage to read the codes. Suppose you could always flog the old one back on eBay if it is OK - would at least get some money back, whereas the garage money would be lost forever. Would be interested to hear other folks opinions as most problems other guys have seem to be cured by changing the sensors.
Richard
 






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