Radiator leak

[mgmgmg]

I have 2 94 Ltd's both have a small radiator leak on the bottom right around the petcock area. Is this common leak area for these first gen X's? Im guessing its a seam leak. just wanted to know if other ppl have the same issue.

 

[mgmgmg]

Anybody?

 

[MrQ]

How many miles on that radiator and on the car? I have a 94 XLT and don't have a rad leak at 154,000 miles. What you might want to look for is if you are having stray electricty getting into the coolant and destroying the rad. The name of this process escapes me at the moment, but it is a possibility, not to mention it both went out on limited's is curious.

 

[mgmgmg]

My winter beater has 252,000 which i drive about 3k in 6 months. My summer had 118,00. I plan to hit autozone and rent the pressure tester. Find where its comin from.

 

[Maniak]

The common spot is the crimp between the plastic tanks the the metal core...

Each one I've had to replace had the leak in the same spot (different spot on the radiator, but it was the crimp)

~Mark

 

[mgmgmg]

Any places online to find great price on a radiator? Its a very small leak few drops here and there. Dont know if i want to pick 2 up?

 

[mcelwajy]

Check the Rad. price from rock auto. My brother just got one for his Camaro for like 140. That was the cheapest we could fine. I definately wouldn't use any of that radiator stop leak stuff, I used it in an old car I had and it detroyed the water pump.

 

[Champcar_Fan]

Checkout www.radiator.com. They have 2 listed for $98 and $101 for a 1994 Explorer. The $101 has a core thickness of 2.25” vs 1”.

Do the online chat to figure out the radiator you need. Type in “Are you a computer?” anytime and you’ll get a coupon code for $25 off when you have them call you.

See if they have local pickup. I did that since I needed it that day and they beat the price of anything local for my Acura by a long shot. I ended up with an all-metal radiator costing less than the aluminum/plastic tank available locally for a higher price.

 

[Maniak]

2.25" is 2 core, 1" is single core..

AFIAK, 2 core is the only way to go. The extra fluid capacity and extra 50% cooling capacity are always worth it.

~Mark

 

[mgmgmg]

Does anybody know how much Tranny fluid you lose when changing out the radiator. I know how to check the dip stick. Just curious how much the rad holds. Also any tips on loosing the tranny lines from the radiator.

 

[Explodr94]

I recently had the same leak on my radiator. It was down by the petcock. You don't lose much tranny fluid. Once the radiators start leaking it isn't worth it to fix, because you can get a new one for around a $100 + shipping at www.RockAuto.com When replacing, make sure you use teflon tape on the pipe fittings. Just my two cents.

 

[awood]

My 90 Ranger, 94 Ranger, and 92 Explorer (which currently is the only one left in the driveway these days. The Rangers were sold to friends) all had the antifreeze seep from the crimps between the plastic ends and the metal core. All were fixed, and are still working, by removing the radiator, re-crimping with a very large pair of "water pump" pliers (12 inch Channel-Locks) and lots of hand and arm muscle. While the radiator is out, back flush through the fins with the garden hose. You'd be surprised how much dirt and insect remains come out! Anyway...the fix remains good. It might be worth a try before spending a hundred bucks.

 

[Jay R]

expound on this fix please

awood
could you explain in more detail what you have done to "Crimp" or recrimp as it were... or will it be obvious once I get the radiator out, also, has anyone else tried this? thanks. -jay

92 explorer sport
229,000

 

[awood]

Wow, somehow I let this question get by me - and I was inactive here for awhile. Anyway, remove the radiator. Use a hose to spray all the road debris back out of the fins. Then take a pair of pliers like these:
http://mhmdirect.com/pliers20inch.html
...and add some cheater bar length to the handles. I used a couple of sections of PVC pipe (schedule 40) a couple of feet long to give me more leverage on the pliers handles. You may need an assistant, but use this set-up to "re-crimp" all the tabs that hold the plastic end caps in place. It doesn't take much movement of the tabs to re-seal everything.

If it doesn't work...well, you had a leaking radiator before and it needed to be replaced anyway. If it DOES work, it's a bonus for you. All I'm saying is that it's worked for every Ford I've owned so far.

If this doesn't help you this late in the game, maybe it will help someone else.

 

[killer.jensen]

How many miles on that radiator and on the car? I have a 94 XLT and don't have a rad leak at 154,000 miles. What you might want to look for is if you are having stray electricty getting into the coolant and destroying the rad. The name of this process escapes me at the moment, but it is a possibility, not to mention it both went out on limited's is curious.

Autolytic Cathodization