The reason why so many are acting skittish about doing HVAC on a car, is that they know those kits you buy from the store are crap.
Think about this: they don't like you doing medical stuff on your own, or electrical, or whatever. "We don't sell to the public". Whatever. But you can get something to supposedly "fix" your air over the counter, when The Powers That Be won't even sell you a set of gauges over the counter? (If you don't understand what I'm saying, go to a wholesale HVAC place, say you want to make a cash sale, and have no 609 certificate and see what they [usually] do...).
It's because they know you're going to screw up your a/c with that can, and be in a pro's shop within a month. Those things create business for them.
Why?
All air conditioners rely on a very narrow, narrow window of balance. Throw that off, and their efficiency goes to crap. They want you to believe, and most people think, this lack of cold air always = no more freon.
Truthfully, in home units, 80% of the time its' because of a clogged condenser coil or dirty filters. True, many mobile systems DO leak over time due to vibration, but really, many times the problem is elsewhere.
So, people go get a fixit kit, and shoot a pound more into a balanced system. This overpressures the high side, and either a weak braze joint, or a seal, or (uhoh) the compressor eventually fails. Maybe the extra liquid slugs the compressor.
Several have suggested getting a set of gauges. That is the BEST advice you can get. Don't even TOUCH a can of 134a before you put gauges on the car. (that teeny little gauge on the 30 dollar can doesn't count, either).
Install the gauges, then start the compressor. You can't tell what's going on if the compressor isn't pushing coolant. As others have said, there is a safety feature, basically a pressure switch. Pressure falls too low, the switch cuts out and the compressor wont run. Looks like a two wire knot on one of the a/c tubes. (I'll go take a picture of mine on my 05 V6 if it will help).
If the gauges read low, you need to figure out why. If you just shoot some gas in there, whereever the first batch got out, so will what you just put in there. You'll need to put some dye in the system and look with a UV light to see where it comes out. (Don't run the compressor a lot, you'll overheat it.)
Once you find the leak, (duh) fix it. Then, you need, as others have said, to pull a good vacuum, put the correct charge in, and be certain the correct amount of PAG or whatever lube needs to go in there. Some people even replace the dryer at this point. Why a vacuum? Without getting sciency, a vacuum removes impurities and water out of the system. Water doesn't compress, and it corrodes the system. Impurities, especially compressor oil, can turn acidic, and kill the system.
If the gauges read ok, its' not the refrigerant. Look at the condensers. Are the fins beat to ****? That can be enough to cause the problem. Dig deep into the bowel of the dash, is that coil dirty? Dust over time can, even though it looks light, plug that coil up until it doesn't work right. So can mold, mildew, and dead mice.
Once, I got one that looked decent. Not even grey, still kinda silver. I put cleaner on it, and hit it with a garden hose, and ALL kinds of crap came out. Ta da! Fixed, and not an ounce of freon.
Is there a dent in one of the lines? Crap in the system can plug the TXV. Is it electronic? Is one of the cables broken, and it's not activating the system? Was nothing coming out at all? Maybe the blower fan is burnt up, occluded, or frozen.
So, there's a lot of different things that can make cold air not come out. Take the time to look at the other reasons, before defaulting to the bottle, and you'll keep that cold air a LOT longer...
-Shawn