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re-charge ac on 02 xls explorer

rockstarhd

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City, State
stoughton ma.
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 xls
does anyone have advice. i bought auto zone recharger,,i dont know where to fill it.. low side ?
 



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Yeah, you recharge on the low side. On my '98, it's on top of the accumulator on the passenger side, half way between the radiator and the firewall. On the wife's '02, it's on the passenger side near the radiator. You can only fill through the low side because the fittings are different sizes. You really need to invest in a set of gauges so you can monitor the high side pressure, too.An overcharge is just as bad as an undercharge, and twice as dangerous. Good luck
Tom
 






thanks

it seems full . it wont take any of the gas from the canister.. another ford nightmare i guess.. i dont hear the compressor kickin on .. so its probably more than i thought.. thanx again .Hal
 






the valve is close by the passenger headlight on top of the canister... use a pressure gauge to see if you need some or not... most recharger comes with one... don't over fill or it's really going to be a nightmare
 






It's not going to take any refriigerant if the compressor's not running. Do you have the AC on? If so, you may be undercharged to the point where the low pressure cut-out is keeping the compressor from running. Locate the cut-out, unplug the electrical connector, then jump the connector with a paper clip. That should get the compressor running, unless there's another problem. When the compressor is running, it will pull the refrigerant from the can into the system. If all this is confusing you, you should probably take it to a shop
Tom
 






Instead of using those dummy gauges please by a manifold guage set. You can get one for cheap at harbor freight for under $50, http://www.harborfreight.com/tabviewer/4241/11.gif
a vacuum pump for $9 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/emails/2709/RetailA/Images/13.jpg

Pull a proper vacuum and then fill use the manifold guage and r134a tap. Your low pressure should be below 40 ideally 35 and the high pressure should be 2.5x the ambient temperature. Those dummy guages don't give a real measurement of current levels. You can also try jumpering the compressor to make sure its working.
 






take it to a professional, a/c work is NOT for the diy
 






Bah. There is NOTHING on a vehicle you can't do yourself if you're willing to take the time to figure it out. Sometimes it can cost you more in the short term if you screw something up the first time (or two!) but saying you CAN'T DIY it is ignorant. Ultimately you win in the end if you learn how to do it yourself.

Which is the whole reason this forum exists in the first place.
 






Why such negativity here. This is a DIY forum is it not! Rockstar this is basic stuff and you can do it brother. Like mentioned before it's probably so low on freon that the compressor is cycling off. Find the low-pressure switch plug and jump the contacts with a paper clip. Also get yourself a Haynes Manual for your Ford for 12 bucks. It's the best 12 bucks you ever spend.
 






Where is this cut out located on my '02 mounty? Mine is doing the same thing I filled it and no compressor.. The gauge read 0 and after 1/2 bottle it reads 25psi.. unless it is just measuring whats in that line since the compressor is not comming on..


Jeremy
 






The low pressure switch is on the low pressure side of the system. On my 98 Eddie, it's on top of the accumulator. Just disconnect the harness (2 wire) from the top of the accumulator, bend a paperclip into a "U" and stick it into the harness. The engine must be running and the AC must be on. Open the windows so the temp in the cabin stays high. If the compressor doesn't kick on, you'll have to look elsewhere for a problem. (fuse, relay, etc.) Good Luck, keep us posted
Tom
 






This is not a reply to anyone. It is a request for info on how to pump in some freon and leak sealant into my 2002 v6 explorer (edie Bauer).. I had the system recharged and it worked great for 2 weeks then poof...... no more ac... the mechanics will not use the sealant kit I found at the auto store .... any help would be appreciated... I have never done any work under the hood of a car, so I am really going to need some details... thanks in ad vance

joe in bloomingdale, IL
 






The reason why so many are acting skittish about doing HVAC on a car, is that they know those kits you buy from the store are crap.

Think about this: they don't like you doing medical stuff on your own, or electrical, or whatever. "We don't sell to the public". Whatever. But you can get something to supposedly "fix" your air over the counter, when The Powers That Be won't even sell you a set of gauges over the counter? (If you don't understand what I'm saying, go to a wholesale HVAC place, say you want to make a cash sale, and have no 609 certificate and see what they [usually] do...).

It's because they know you're going to screw up your a/c with that can, and be in a pro's shop within a month. Those things create business for them.

Why?

All air conditioners rely on a very narrow, narrow window of balance. Throw that off, and their efficiency goes to crap. They want you to believe, and most people think, this lack of cold air always = no more freon.

Truthfully, in home units, 80% of the time its' because of a clogged condenser coil or dirty filters. True, many mobile systems DO leak over time due to vibration, but really, many times the problem is elsewhere.

So, people go get a fixit kit, and shoot a pound more into a balanced system. This overpressures the high side, and either a weak braze joint, or a seal, or (uhoh) the compressor eventually fails. Maybe the extra liquid slugs the compressor.

Several have suggested getting a set of gauges. That is the BEST advice you can get. Don't even TOUCH a can of 134a before you put gauges on the car. (that teeny little gauge on the 30 dollar can doesn't count, either).

Install the gauges, then start the compressor. You can't tell what's going on if the compressor isn't pushing coolant. As others have said, there is a safety feature, basically a pressure switch. Pressure falls too low, the switch cuts out and the compressor wont run. Looks like a two wire knot on one of the a/c tubes. (I'll go take a picture of mine on my 05 V6 if it will help).

If the gauges read low, you need to figure out why. If you just shoot some gas in there, whereever the first batch got out, so will what you just put in there. You'll need to put some dye in the system and look with a UV light to see where it comes out. (Don't run the compressor a lot, you'll overheat it.)

Once you find the leak, (duh) fix it. Then, you need, as others have said, to pull a good vacuum, put the correct charge in, and be certain the correct amount of PAG or whatever lube needs to go in there. Some people even replace the dryer at this point. Why a vacuum? Without getting sciency, a vacuum removes impurities and water out of the system. Water doesn't compress, and it corrodes the system. Impurities, especially compressor oil, can turn acidic, and kill the system.

If the gauges read ok, its' not the refrigerant. Look at the condensers. Are the fins beat to ****? That can be enough to cause the problem. Dig deep into the bowel of the dash, is that coil dirty? Dust over time can, even though it looks light, plug that coil up until it doesn't work right. So can mold, mildew, and dead mice.

Once, I got one that looked decent. Not even grey, still kinda silver. I put cleaner on it, and hit it with a garden hose, and ALL kinds of crap came out. Ta da! Fixed, and not an ounce of freon.

Is there a dent in one of the lines? Crap in the system can plug the TXV. Is it electronic? Is one of the cables broken, and it's not activating the system? Was nothing coming out at all? Maybe the blower fan is burnt up, occluded, or frozen.

So, there's a lot of different things that can make cold air not come out. Take the time to look at the other reasons, before defaulting to the bottle, and you'll keep that cold air a LOT longer...

-Shawn
 






Boy, I wish I'd said that
Tom
 






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