Rear axle nut question and broken spring Pics

[Tyler92]

Hello all,
I have an '02 Explorer with bad rear wheel bearings and two broken rear coil springs at 72,000 miles. I guess that 5 mile commute my wife makes each was too hard on it. I have it apart and will be reassembling shortly. My question is why is it recommended to replace the axle nut? After removing it looks to be in very good condition and with a little red loctite wouldn't it work? I've already spent more than I want on this job and to give Ford $15 for a two dollar nut is absurd.
I also have to say that after reading all the posts on bearings, springs, and diff problems I am astonished at the number. I have owned mine since new but I'm very uneasy about what going to happen next. I cannot afford to have the diff. or transmission crap out and cost me in excess of $1500 + for repair. I also don't have the funds to buy anything else but feel I have to.
Sorry for venting.

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[Minivek]

From what I know, every manufacturer basically recommends changing these high torque nuts because it most likely protects them from lawsuits. Theoretically, since the nut isn't a torque to yield type or one that is deformable in order to lock, there shouldn't be a problem reusing, however, due to the purpose of this nut, holding in the wheel assembly, it is safer to use a new nut in order to insure correct torque is applied. I'd tend to say that using locktite would be sufficient, I've used it myself, but on the other hand when it comes to suspension or driveline parts, I like to replace them as the cost is minimal over a somewhere close to 60 to a 100k mile period before I replace another part down there.

It's a tough call, where I live they put lots of road salt in winter, so I'd rather change those parts in order to make the next removal easier (less rust).

Its a tough nut, if you clean the threads and torque it right, it should stay put.

Any other opinions??

 

[EasyRhino]

If the nut is in good shape, cleans up well, is not deformed by installation or removal, there is no reason it cannot be reused.

The logic is:

If the nut was not required to be removed and replaced periodically, and if the nut is not damaged or deformed by removal installation, then there is no difference in leaving it on for 200K+ miles or replacing it.

Locktite is a must, however.

 

[Tyler92]

Thanks for the reply guys. I decided to reuse the nut. There is nothing wrong with it and I'm confident it will be fine. My opinion is it's just another way for Ford to grab more money from your wallet.
I finished the job today. New hub/bearing, replaced one of two broken springs, and one of two struts. I'm tired and sore but happy with the result. Only one more side to go next weekend. Here's a pic of the rear spring I took out.
Nice isn't it. 70,000 easy miles.

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[EasyRhino]

Thanks for the reply guys. I decided to reuse the nut. There is nothing wrong with it and I'm confident it will be fine. My opinion is it's just another way for Ford to grab more money from your wallet.
I finished the job today. New hub/bearing, replaced one of two broken springs, and one of two struts. I'm tired and sore but happy with the result. Only one more side to go next weekend. Here's a pic of the rear spring I took out.
Nice isn't it. 70,000 easy miles.

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Was your spring in four pieces???? How did all of the parts even stay on the truck?

Next Q: Many have complained about how hard the rear wheel bearings are to replace, but not you. What's your secret?

 

[Tyler92]

Yes the spring was in four pieces. I don't know how it stayed together but it did. It's funny, Ford wants the axle nut replaced but isn't concerned about the springs that are most likely broken in thousands of these trucks. If a piece was to dislodge it could do serious damage to a tire.

As far as changing the hub/bearing goes, I read many of the posts on here regarding this. There are many and very helpful. I've been wrenching all my life, not as a job but just for repairs and the enjoyment. I get real satisfaction in doing it myself and I know it's done correctly.

In order to do this job you must have the correct tools. I rented the hub puller and spring compressor from Advanced Auto Parts. They actually loan them out you just need to leave a deposit. In order to pull the hub off the axle the pulley makes quick work of it. I don't think you'll remove it without one.

One day prior to doing the job I started hitting all the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster. I was able to get the toe link out of the knuckle but couldn't get the upper control arm out so I simply unbolted it from the frame and pulled it and the knuckle out as one piece. I could then get at it better and got it separated. The knuckle has a slit were it clamps onto the control arm and I drove a small wedge in and the arm came right out.

I didn't even attempt to try and press the bearing out, I took it to NAPA and had them do it. Cost me $30 for this.
After cleaning everything up, a little sandblasting and some antisieze I reassembled everything. It went back together very easily as everything was clean and most of the rust was gone.

I plan to start the other side next Sunday and will try and snap some pictures. I know I can do the other side in half the time. As far as I can see the spring on this side is only broken in one place. We'll see. Hope this helps.

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[EasyRhino]

Yes the spring was in four pieces. I don't know how it stayed together but it did. It's funny, Ford wants the axle nut replaced but isn't concerned about the springs that are most likely broken in thousands of these trucks. If a piece was to dislodge it could do serious damage to a tire.

As far as changing the hub/bearing goes, I read many of the posts on here regarding this. There are many and very helpful. I've been wrenching all my life, not as a job but just for repairs and the enjoyment. I get real satisfaction in doing it myself and I know it's done correctly.

In order to do this job you must have the correct tools. I rented the hub puller and spring compressor from Advanced Auto Parts. They actually loan them out you just need to leave a deposit. In order to pull the hub off the axle the pulley makes quick work of it. I don't think you'll remove it without one.

One day prior to doing the job I started hitting all the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster. I was able to get the toe link out of the knuckle but couldn't get the upper control arm out so I simply unbolted it from the frame and pulled it and the knuckle out as one piece. I could then get at it better and got it separated. The knuckle has a slit were it clamps onto the control arm and I drove a small wedge in and the arm came right out.

I didn't even attempt to try and press the bearing out, I took it to NAPA and had them do it. Cost me $30 for this.
After cleaning everything up, a little sandblasting and some antisieze I reassembled everything. It went back together very easily as everything was clean and most of the rust was gone.

I plan to start the other side next Sunday and will try and snap some pictures. I know I can do the other side in half the time. As far as I can see the spring on this side is only broken in one place. We'll see. Hope this helps.

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I'd say that you are a far better than average mechanical DIY'er.

So far mine does not seem to want this repair (crosses fingers).