Rear differential pinion seal on AWD Mountaineer leaking | Ford Explorer Forums

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Rear differential pinion seal on AWD Mountaineer leaking

kitra

Active Member
Joined
August 9, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Beaverton, Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Montaineer
I've been reading other posts and the shop manual regarding replacing the pinion seal. It looks like I need a dial-type torque meter (0-30 inch pounds?) to set the bearing pre-load. And a flat piece of steel to hold the yoke while I attempt to loosen the pinion nut. I've done all the work on our Mountaineer but am thinking I don't want to buy a $200 inch pound wrench to do the job. Also don't know what size the pinion nut is? Are there alternate ways to get the bearing pre-load correct? I've had bad luck at the Ford Dealers but am consindering giving them another try. Of course if they got the pre-load wrong and the pinion bearings melt down, they'd say "oh, the rear-end was already bad" - we didn't do anything wrong. Suggestions? Thanks
 






I've been reading other posts and the shop manual regarding replacing the pinion seal. It looks like I need a dial-type torque meter (0-30 inch pounds?) to set the bearing pre-load. And a flat piece of steel to hold the yoke while I attempt to loosen the pinion nut. I've done all the work on our Mountaineer but am thinking I don't want to buy a $200 inch pound wrench to do the job. Also don't know what size the pinion nut is? Are there alternate ways to get the bearing pre-load correct? I've had bad luck at the Ford Dealers but am consindering giving them another try. Of course if they got the pre-load wrong and the pinion bearings melt down, they'd say "oh, the rear-end was already bad" - we didn't do anything wrong. Suggestions? Thanks

Do this: Get a new pinion flange nut and new pinion seal.

Disconnect the driveshaft from the pinion flange, and wire it up out of the way.

Use a hard steel shaft through one of the unused holes on the pinion flange to prevent the pinion from turning.

Remove the pinion flange nut.

Mark the pinion flange, and remove it from the pinion shaft.

Clean the threads on the pinion shaft.

Remove and replace the pinion seal.

Using the marks, install the pinion flange as it was originally.

Install the new pinion flange nut, and torque to 125 foot-pounds.

Attach the driveshaft to the pinion flange.

Top off gear oil to proper level.

Enjoy. You just did the whole job for about $20, and it only takes about an hour if the car is on a lift.
 






Thanks David

Interestingly, I called the local Ford Dealer and talked to the Service Advisor. He told me the job would be $160-180, if the pinion flange/yoke doesn't need replacing. I told him that I'd heard and read that the pinion bearing pre-load is very critical and a new crush-sleeve should be used along with careful torque measurements prior to removing the nut. He then told me they "do not" use a new crush sleeve for this job. They remove the flange, R & R the seal, tighten the nut down (didn't mention a torque value), and top-off the fluid. So David, your advice/expertise seems to line-up with what the Ford Dealer told me they were going to do. I wish I had a lift but I do have 2 floor jacks and some stands. Next weekend, I'll give it a try. Thanks again.
 






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