I have 1992 Ford Explorer 4WD, the brakes seem fine around town but on a panic or quick stop the right rear wheel locks up and skids. The ABS does not show any trouble codes. I think it might be the Hydraulic unit aka proportioning valve. I would think something else would show up or the ABS light would go on. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Car is an automatic, 158K brake service includes recent master, shoes, pads and rotors, drums and wheel cylinders about 5K ago . thanks
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Rear passenger side brake grabs on panic stop
- Thread starter detslick
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My wife is only using it around town, if you are gentle with the brake pedal its fine, if you push the pedal all the way in a quick stop it begins to stop and then you hear and feel the the right rear brake skid speed around 35-40 thanks
natenkiki2004
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I may not be thinking about this right but here's my 2 cents...
The rear ABS, even on 4WABS, only feeds off the ring gear. It's not independant. If one wheel locks up, the ABS might not know it because the spider gear would still turn the ring gear. I think the rear ABS only activates if both lock up. Maybe it's the other side that has brakes that aren't adjusted tight enough. That would make both lock up and in turn activate ABS for proper stopping.
Definitely start with the easy stuff first though, like 2stroke mentioned.
The rear ABS, even on 4WABS, only feeds off the ring gear. It's not independant. If one wheel locks up, the ABS might not know it because the spider gear would still turn the ring gear. I think the rear ABS only activates if both lock up. Maybe it's the other side that has brakes that aren't adjusted tight enough. That would make both lock up and in turn activate ABS for proper stopping.
Definitely start with the easy stuff first though, like 2stroke mentioned.
OneofMany
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RR lock up is common. Most often the issue is the parking brake dragging a little. check, lube, adjust it. Check, lube and adjust both rear brakes of course, but it is not happening because the other side is adjusted wrong (LR), it does not work like that. If your Left Front (LF) brake has an issue like brake hose restriction, then the right rear gets too much pressure. So look into replacing the brake hose to the LF if the problem persists after the above adjustments. Of course obvious issues like leaking axle seal leads to oil saturated brake lining and causes lock ups too.
natenkiki2004
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How does that work? As far as I know, these Explorers are front/rear isolation, not diagonal. The front shouldn't affect the rear and vise-versa.
malohnes
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- natenkiki2004 is correct. Our ABS is very simple.
Also look for the hardware in the drum, I have found mine to drag a lot and replacing the hardware was cheap and easy. A sticky wheel cylinder can cause a dragging brake too. Parking brake adjustment is also very, very plausible too and easy to correct if mis-adjusted.
Roadrunner777
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I had this for about a year, replaced everything brake related in the back before discovering my parking brake cable was hung up a little bit. I gave it a good yank and it's been all gold ever since.
92exp4x4
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Ever figure this out? Check the return springs and axle oil leaks. These should be replaced every brake job ( not seals always, but def the hardware). Heat will cause them to weaken over time even when they look fine. Also newer drum brakes (post 1960s) are self energizing. This is the reason for a long and short shoe. The primary or front shoe pad surface is shorter and the secondary (rear) shoe is longer. If they are reversed this can cause the brake to lock up as the brake reacts much more violently to the rotating force of the drum. The shoes, if installed correctly, will grab and be forced to "wedge" in the drum as it rotates and work as a mechanical "power" assist to help stop the vehicle.
If you can visualize it, the small shoe is forced by the drum rotation as it touches. The links between the shoes allows this force to transfer to the back shoe which presses into the drum and slows the drum. The wheel cylinder just closes the clearance between the shoes and the drum face and forces the shoes harder, making them wedge harder into the drum.
Hope this helps
If you can visualize it, the small shoe is forced by the drum rotation as it touches. The links between the shoes allows this force to transfer to the back shoe which presses into the drum and slows the drum. The wheel cylinder just closes the clearance between the shoes and the drum face and forces the shoes harder, making them wedge harder into the drum.
Hope this helps
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