ROBinGa
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- February 16, 2014
- Messages
- 348
- Reaction score
- 32
- City, State
- Ga
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT 4x4 4.6
I changed out my 2003 XLT 4x4 rear struts and while in there new sway bar end links today following the 1AAuto video linked below. I would highly suggest following this video process since I was able to change out both sides in less than 3 hours start to finish. One thing that helped is that I have no rust at all underneath our Explorer so I never had to fight any bolts. I had also recently had the rear knuckles off to do rear bearings so I knew everything was free to come off. I do recommend a 13 mm gear wrench that also has a swivel head for the three top strut nuts. It's tight in there.
The key I think as shown in this video is slightly undoing the 21 mm nuts where lower control arm connects to frame. Only loosen the nut to break the torque and that will allow the whole lower control arm to drop and your strut comes out easily. Only 1/8 to 1/4 turn should do it. Then to install insert the lower strut eye and its bolt in the lower control arm where it connects and then with jack raise it up so top three studs find their holes in frame up top. Really fast and easy this way. Then load up your sway end link while things are all still loose. Then once everything is connected back by bolts and nuts loosely, raise suspension to ride height with your jack and tighten down all bolts correctly to torque.
I did buy a package of plastic push in panel rivets at Lowes in the hardware area where they have drawers of odds and ends. There were ones for Ford and I found the pack of 2 for 0.80 that replaced the ones I had to sacrifice removing the passenger side inner wheel well shield that protects fuel fill pipe. These are the ones that connect the shield to outer body fender panel. I was able to reuse the 2 push rivets on both driver and passenger sides that connect the shield to the frame.
This was the easiest and fastest thing I have done on the Explorer to date.
The key I think as shown in this video is slightly undoing the 21 mm nuts where lower control arm connects to frame. Only loosen the nut to break the torque and that will allow the whole lower control arm to drop and your strut comes out easily. Only 1/8 to 1/4 turn should do it. Then to install insert the lower strut eye and its bolt in the lower control arm where it connects and then with jack raise it up so top three studs find their holes in frame up top. Really fast and easy this way. Then load up your sway end link while things are all still loose. Then once everything is connected back by bolts and nuts loosely, raise suspension to ride height with your jack and tighten down all bolts correctly to torque.
I did buy a package of plastic push in panel rivets at Lowes in the hardware area where they have drawers of odds and ends. There were ones for Ford and I found the pack of 2 for 0.80 that replaced the ones I had to sacrifice removing the passenger side inner wheel well shield that protects fuel fill pipe. These are the ones that connect the shield to outer body fender panel. I was able to reuse the 2 push rivets on both driver and passenger sides that connect the shield to the frame.
This was the easiest and fastest thing I have done on the Explorer to date.
