03Explo20
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- January 4, 2013
- Messages
- 193
- Reaction score
- 15
- City, State
- Jonestown, Pa.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2003 Explorer XLT
Today I changed out both rear toe links on my 2003 XLT. Things went relatively smooth until the very end of the install and the reassembly.
The pinch bolts holding the toe link in on the knuckle were easily broken free using my Milwaukee M18 Impact. I was also able to pound the holding bolts up and out of the knuckle. Removi9ng the ball joint, however, was sort of a SOB! I had to use cold chisels to open the pinch point up enough so I could work it free with the pickle fork. Plan on destroying the rubber boot on removal!
The frame mounted bolts in the center under the vehicle also broke free very easy. Upon reassembly, I purchased brand new bolts/nuts from Ford for the pinch point on the knuckle. No matter what I tried I could not get the bolt (new or even the old one) back in through the hole! I ended up trying to pound the old one back in like I removed it but that destroyed the threads! I had to use a rat tail file and file out the rust and burrs in the hole before being able to get the new bolt to go in far enough to where I could use a wrench on it to thread it through.
Everything was tightened up to specs and the wheels where put back on. But not without a hitch......
The passenger side went on fine with the impact wrench and torque wrench. When I went to put the drivers side on, though, I noticed something didn't seem right and the lugs seemed to not want to tighten. I got out my four way and tightened them by hand then all of a sudden I heard "hissing" like the tire was punctured!! I removed the tire and rim again and saw that the toe link on the drivers side was not pounded in to the knuckle far enough and actually punctured the inside of the RIM and caused the tire to deflate!!! I had to order and new rim now!
PLEASE make sure your toe links inside the rim are smashed up and in to the knuckle as far as possible! There is only about a 1/4" of space between the link and the rim anyway so anything a little lower is going to be a disaster! I re-loosened the knuckle bolt and got the old mini sledge out and whacked the damn ball joint part way in to the knuckle and re-tightened!
Like I said, a very small gap between the ball joint part of the toe link and the inside rim. Make sure you have the clearance or you'll be putting on the spare and ordering another rim!
The Moogs I purchased came with grease fittings on the ball joints but they are positioned so that there is no overhang from the zerk. I believe I read the Dormans also have a zerk fitting but they are positioned so the zerk interferes with the rim and get torn off. The Moogs aren't like that.
Just wanted to give anyone thinking of changing these toe links out a little heads up. Take your time and make sure the clearances are all good before tightening everything down.
***Update
One further thing for anyone interested. DO NOT forget to install the locking nuts for the inner joint! I'll be out in the driveway again today trying to get those installed without damaging the boots! Jesus H, I can't get a break!
***Update 8-8-15
Had an alignment done yesterday as the truck felt like a dirt track car going through the corners. Swaying and all over the road. The alignment in the rear was so far off the truck got stuck on the plates on the alignment machine forcing the tech to have to jack up the rear end to free it! Hell, I measured the size of the old link and made the new Moog link the exact same size and it was still waaaay off! So much for that tip, eh! I also noticed the passenger side outer joint slightly rubbing on the inside of the rim. I had to reinstall that again to get it up far enough inside the pinch point on the knuckle so it had enough clearance! Jesus H was this job a PITA! Hopefully it's all settled now and no more dicking around with it!
Again, people, make sure to get that knuckle side ball joint as far into the knuckle as possible then torque the pinch bolt! Clean the hole out real well beforehand also and grease up the pin before installing! I even gave mine a few shots with the four pound sledge to get it into the knuckle good!
The pinch bolts holding the toe link in on the knuckle were easily broken free using my Milwaukee M18 Impact. I was also able to pound the holding bolts up and out of the knuckle. Removi9ng the ball joint, however, was sort of a SOB! I had to use cold chisels to open the pinch point up enough so I could work it free with the pickle fork. Plan on destroying the rubber boot on removal!
The frame mounted bolts in the center under the vehicle also broke free very easy. Upon reassembly, I purchased brand new bolts/nuts from Ford for the pinch point on the knuckle. No matter what I tried I could not get the bolt (new or even the old one) back in through the hole! I ended up trying to pound the old one back in like I removed it but that destroyed the threads! I had to use a rat tail file and file out the rust and burrs in the hole before being able to get the new bolt to go in far enough to where I could use a wrench on it to thread it through.
Everything was tightened up to specs and the wheels where put back on. But not without a hitch......
The passenger side went on fine with the impact wrench and torque wrench. When I went to put the drivers side on, though, I noticed something didn't seem right and the lugs seemed to not want to tighten. I got out my four way and tightened them by hand then all of a sudden I heard "hissing" like the tire was punctured!! I removed the tire and rim again and saw that the toe link on the drivers side was not pounded in to the knuckle far enough and actually punctured the inside of the RIM and caused the tire to deflate!!! I had to order and new rim now!
PLEASE make sure your toe links inside the rim are smashed up and in to the knuckle as far as possible! There is only about a 1/4" of space between the link and the rim anyway so anything a little lower is going to be a disaster! I re-loosened the knuckle bolt and got the old mini sledge out and whacked the damn ball joint part way in to the knuckle and re-tightened!
Like I said, a very small gap between the ball joint part of the toe link and the inside rim. Make sure you have the clearance or you'll be putting on the spare and ordering another rim!
The Moogs I purchased came with grease fittings on the ball joints but they are positioned so that there is no overhang from the zerk. I believe I read the Dormans also have a zerk fitting but they are positioned so the zerk interferes with the rim and get torn off. The Moogs aren't like that.
Just wanted to give anyone thinking of changing these toe links out a little heads up. Take your time and make sure the clearances are all good before tightening everything down.
***Update
One further thing for anyone interested. DO NOT forget to install the locking nuts for the inner joint! I'll be out in the driveway again today trying to get those installed without damaging the boots! Jesus H, I can't get a break!
***Update 8-8-15
Had an alignment done yesterday as the truck felt like a dirt track car going through the corners. Swaying and all over the road. The alignment in the rear was so far off the truck got stuck on the plates on the alignment machine forcing the tech to have to jack up the rear end to free it! Hell, I measured the size of the old link and made the new Moog link the exact same size and it was still waaaay off! So much for that tip, eh! I also noticed the passenger side outer joint slightly rubbing on the inside of the rim. I had to reinstall that again to get it up far enough inside the pinch point on the knuckle so it had enough clearance! Jesus H was this job a PITA! Hopefully it's all settled now and no more dicking around with it!
Again, people, make sure to get that knuckle side ball joint as far into the knuckle as possible then torque the pinch bolt! Clean the hole out real well beforehand also and grease up the pin before installing! I even gave mine a few shots with the four pound sledge to get it into the knuckle good!
