rear sway bar bushing frame bolts

[thomasdrelich]

Hi guys I have a 2004 Ford explorer vin e v6 xlt. I was replacing the rear sway bar bushings when one of the bolts snapped from being so rusted. They are sticking out the top of the frame held on by the 15 mm nuts. There seems to be some sort of metal clips where those bolts slide into. Its a small area thats hard to see. Is there a repair kit I can purchase. I appreciate the help. Thank you

 

[cross6]

Appears the sway bar bracket bolts are threaded in the frame. Any threads showing on the broken bolt?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300402

Yep I replaced mine not too long ago. There are loose captive nuts in the frame. I'm not sure if you can get to them somehow or not. Maybe lifting the body?

 

[cross6]

Found a workaround. There are nearby holes in the frame that were easy to get to once removing the inner fender well splash gaurds. I was able to fish a new nut into the frame, and used a slightly smaller diameter Grade 8 bolt that fit through the stripped chassis nut. The Haynes torque spec of 41ftlbs is a bit higher than the bolts I used are rated for, so technically they are over-torqued... so if one ever breaks I will have to consider another alternative. I am not too worried though, I don't excessively work my suspension much.

 

[thomasdrelich]

The holes are big enough to get a new bolt in. Is it on the inner side. This is on the driver side rear.

 

[thomasdrelich]

Here is a pic sorry if its poor

 

[AIpp]

I have the same problem. May be somebody know how to remove damaged stud from the frame and insert the new one? Does it have some window under the sway bar bracket, or it's only possible insert it through this small holes in the lower of frame?
One stud is damaged, we can't unbolt it. Looks that we have to saw it off and then replace it with new one. But how this replacement may be done?

 

[Number Twelve]

When I couldn't get sway bar bracket bolt to unscrew I used an air chisel to blow the bolt and captive nut holder out of the frame. I tried to buy the spring metal nut holders and was told you can't get them at all. So I cut a piece of 3/8th thick steel about 5 inches long and 2 inches wide. I bolted the bracket to the new piece and bolted the new piece to the frame. I did that by drilling holes in the frame and using 3/8th diameter self-tapping bolts left over from some long ago job. You can tell they are self tapping by the triangle of metal missing from the threaded end of the bolt.

It's a band-aid job. You just forsake the original bracket holders and make new bracket holders. The heads of the new bracket bolts go down inside the frame holes where the old bolt holders used to be. If you ever want to take it out, you take out the self tapping bolts and remove the bracket + the bracket holder as one piece.

ps, I cut the sheet metal floor of the car to get at the brackets. Put it back with some Virginia (tar and cork) tape and a sheet metal patch screwed into the remaining floor of the car. I would post the photos if I was willing to pay this site to let me give you free information.

 

[AIpp]

Hello! Thanks for you reply. Sadly it's really a major PITA.
I can't understand how the "native" captive nuts are attached to the frame. There are only two holes on the top of frame or there's something more? How it were assembled on the factory? They firstly installed this bolts, then welded the frame? Crazy idea.

 

[Number Twelve]

They firstly installed this bolts, then welded the frame?

No, they left fairly large holes in the top of the frame rail and added spring steel nut holders that clip into the holes. After you blow the clips away there is plenty of room for whatever nut or bolt head you want to sink down inside the frame holes. Just make a patch long enough to bolt the sway bar bracket on and drill a couple of extra holes for bolts that will thread into the frame. Lay the assembled sway bar bracket and steel patch on top of the frame, drill a couple of holes into the frame, and fire a couple of self-threading bolts into the 2 new holes.

The frame is two layers of sheet metal, not a solid 3/16ths thick wall. The only caution is that the patch must be thick enough and wide enough to survive the stress of the sway bar flexing as you drive. All the stress on the sway bar bracket will be inflicted on the patch and the patch will transfer that stress to the two new bolts you will screw into the frame.

What? Doesn't everybody just walk out to the shed and make their own parts which have never been invented before?

 

[AIpp]

This spring sheet only hold bolt from dropping into the frame and rotation (and bolt head bears on the frame)? Or it works like a shim (i.e. is the hole itself larger than bolt's head or isn't). Is it possible to fix bolt in the frame with welding? May be it's possible to cut off nuts&bolts and then weld new bolts to old captive nuts?
Disassembly interior panels and cut floor isn't so simple and I like escape this if it's possible.
May be somenody have photos with disassembled junction? Or photo of native bolt itself? I can't figure how does it look.

 

[Number Twelve]

(and bolt head bears on the frame)?

No, they left fairly large holes in the top of the frame rail and added spring steel nut holders that clip into the holes.

Is it possible to fix bolt in the frame with welding?

Can you weld upside down while laying on your back without being able to see the top of the frame rail?

May be it's possible to cut off nuts&bolts and then weld new bolts to old captive nuts?

No. The allegedly "captive" nuts aren't stopped from rotating because the spring clips fail to hold them from turning. Whatever you attach to the old bolts will spin as you try to tighten the nuts.

Disassembly interior panels and cut floor isn't so simple and I like escape this if it's possible.

I understand your reluctance to lift the carpet and cut the floor.

I can't figure how does it look.

Even if you hold a mirror to see a little bit, you can't operate a wrench or a welding torch through a mirror.

This "better idea" is a terrible idea. You can't even buy new spring clips to hold the bolts. Another surprise: The original bolt heads are round. That is why the spring clips can not hold them properly. I spent about 2 hours trying to unbolt the sway bar bracket. Then I realized it was another Ford Foulup like many before and I could fix it if I simply abandon the Ford method and design it myself. It is unrepairable by trying to use the original method because you can not buy new spring clips. So I blew the bolts and spring clips out of the frame holes with an air chisel and went in from the top.

How are you going to weld something you can't see? How are you going to weld to a piece of spring steel about 0.015 inches thick? You have to abandon the spring clips because they do not stop the round bolt head from turning and you can't buy new spring clips.

(The links in post #4 and #7 do not show photos of what I found under my 2005 Explorer.)

I did think about using some 2 inch angle iron to make a new bracket. If you can remove or destroy the spring clips you might make a new sway bar bracket holder and bolt it to the side of the frame. Assemble the sway bar holder to the angle iron before attaching the angle iron to the side of the frame. The bolt heads holding the sway bar bracket will fit right down inside the original holes in the frame so the alignment is correct. Then drill into the frame and bolt the angle iron on to the side of the frame...or weld the angle iron to the frame. I am not that good at welding so I used self-threading bolts.

 

[AIpp]

Yes, I consider angle iron (or some kind of channel bar) idea as a possible workaround.
Now one bracket is welded in the one point to the frame. I think it made when one of previous owners tryed to replace this bushings. It was impossible to unbolt it or tighten the nut enough so they abandoned this work and welded bracket to the frame. Very messy but works for some time...
So I think it's possible to weld there a little. I can use lift or inspection pit to make it more comfort. Major problem is thickness of welding bead I think. It's probably will prevent the bracket from good fit with a frame.
But may be I'm not right.
And it seems impossible to weld springs with bolts if it's so thin. Soldering isn't strong enough for this place.
I think I need to cut it off and then look it myself to decide which way is better.
Thanks for your help! And sorry for my bad English.

 

[Tekreck]

New info for old thread - the Dorman replacement bushings come with new bolts and clips (#928-532), at least for third generation. I have one bolt spinning and so will try one of the clips from the Dorman set tomorrow. Funny how only one nut / bolt rusted together out of 4. The first 3 came off easy and so I got slack and did not closely examine the fourth before giving it a hard push.

15mm flex-head gear wrench is essential.