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relay woes

smegun

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 3, 2013
Messages
394
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City, State
florida
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 ford explorer xlt
:roll::roll:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=


this vid is my condition to the tee



lately i notice relay problems i think two of my relays were frozen i typically have to tap out the ecc or the fuel pump relay because the fuel pump wont fire at times its tempermental

some signs of side effects are a dancing alternator gauge


i cleaned the block connections with some pb and carb spray and cleaned up contacts on the relays think i got rid of a stubborn relay to boot but i wonder why this is a common error with the wiring is the wiring loosey goosey or is it a bad brain ?



checked fuel inertia switch checked alernator connections new bat new alternator


i bought the truck with a bad alternator it had about 70 miles before i had to sleep overnight in a harbor frieght parking lot it took me 4 jumps to get home when testing the relays a couple had to be tapped free

looking for advice can i drill a small hole in these and soak them in trannyfluid or cleaner or are they too scared up to worry about send me a link
 



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When relays start getting sticky, it's time to replace them, they are not something you can really "fix" internally, or at least not for the time and money better spent on just buying a new relay or grabbing a bunch from other FMC vehicles at the salvage yard.

Sometimes fuel pump issues are just the fuel pump itself getting old, or the wiring could be getting old and even have a short to the frame.

The ECM/PCM/ECU or "brain" does have a special issue on older Explorers. Ford used cheap capacitors, which eventually leak their electrolyte on the circuit board, and can corrode and completely sever the contacts/connections on the board and/or just corrode the CPU, which leads to weird issues that defy explanation and troubleshooting.

Removing the ECM/PCM/ECU case and popping off the cover to do a visual inspection will let you know what shape the caps and board are in. If you're lucky you can catch it early and clean it up and solder in new caps (or pay for it to be done) and never have to worry about it again, but if it's bad and can't be repaired, you'll have to seek out a refurbed ECM/PCM/ECU with the same number codes.
 






I thoroughly agree with replacing the relays - when they're worn out they need to be thrown away. One thing, be gentle when removing and replacing them because the plastic sockets are likely to be fragile due to age and you really don't want to break them.
 






invariably the few that i got from a junk yard look newer but are worse ive eliminated two of them i get them un stuck by using a 12 volt dc power pack and listen too them click some times tapping them out dosnt work he ha
 






I can hear at times it sounds like in the dash a gurgle of electricity while the fuel pump kicks in I wonder if it has something to do with a grounding ???????? hopefully not :/

according to the brains at advanced auto the battery isn't giving up power to ground or devices during the off test and is working above capacity norms when active with utilities on .... bought a 125 watt version

my ears aren't good enough to hear if its just the pump and relay clicking because when you do a self test you hear the same sounds and relays beyond what sounds like relays clicking is a fuzzy electric or fairly intense static cling sound what could it be ???? a little arching going on during self test and ignition ....

I want to change out my starter block next im missing key on auxillary also and I cant find the switch that gets driven by the key

typically a relay is a highly chromed physical part with electro magnetic spring activated no diodes I can imagine a burnished spot though or possibly the springs are weak anyway I thought I read something in a forum of someone taking them apart to recondition but I lost my html page id like to see one im going to hack into one to look for damage




bamage :/
 






I wouldn't waste 10 seconds on trying to get a bad relay to work, just buy a new one.

For the sound you're hearing, it's probably the fuel pump. There's clicking and buzzing when you turn the key. The clicks are obviously the relays and the buzzing is the fuel pump. Gurgling might be your injectors or check valve leaking fuel and emptying the fuel rail, the pump is filling it back up.
 






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