removing engine, bolt size for converter

[boostranger]

removing engine, bolt size for torque converter

As i my week could not get any worse. On my way back to Ohio from Jersey on tuesday i blew up the motor in my X, 400 miles from where i was heading. Cost me $400 to get it to school in Ohio, thats $360 more than i had. So now i am stranded in Ohio with no ride. Yesterday i started ripping the engine apart, but of course 20 min after i get started its starts raining and it was like 25 degrees out. Wake up this morn and theres 4 inches of fresh snow on the ground, buts its sunny and warm so its all good. I get everything set up top and its time to crawl under and drop the starter and the torque convertor and the lower bellhousing bolts. Since it was sooo warm there was a huge puddle under the truck, great. So i crawl under and drop the starter and realize that there is no inspection plate so i figure the only way to unbolt the converter is to use a box wrench through the opening for the starter. But since i am doin this with no jacks or anything and its wet as hell out i could not really get a good look into the hole.

Question is what size are the bolts for the converter? Is that the correct way to go about getting them out? How many are there, 3 or 4? hopefully the weather will hold up tomorrow so i can get the converter off and get the motor out and apart to find out what the hell happened.
Thanx in advance for any help or advise.
Jon

 

[boostranger]

anyone?

 

[jon42]

Jon:I just yanked my trans in pretty much the same conditions.Wouldnt stop raining so i bought a cheap $10 rain suit and dove under.You are correct on the converter access...it is through the starter hole.I believe its a 12 mm socket youll need on a 3/8 drive ratchet with a 2 or 4 inch extension.There are 4 of them.The only way i found to turn the engine is with a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft pully bolt. Forgot what size that one was tho...sorry...but it required a 2 inch extension to reach as i remember. If you want a shortcut to pulling the trans...dont bother putting blocks under the engine to hold it ... it will be fine as the engine mounts will hold it well enough. Pull the exhaust crossover,lines,driveshafts,shift linkage,ect. Put a jack under the trans pan and remove the cross member mount bolts,jack trans and t case up(all x,s are 4x4...right),remove cross member and let the jack down, and now...remove the tcase.(much easier than removing it while up under tranny tunnel of the cab).Take the extension housing with the tcase when you pull the t case .Now...you can access all of the bell housing bolts with far greater ease than with the trans stuffed up in the tranny tunnel as well. I removed the tcase because it is to heavy to remove as one unit(trans+t case)Im 6 ft 190 pounds (but kinda skinny) it will be too heavy as one unit to reinstall unless your built like lou ferigno.Hope this helps......jon L

 

[Opera House]

Just to add to that

The bolt heads are almost against the starter ring. You need a very thin ealled socket or else it will spin on the top edges od the bolt. It tool me two hours of looking in the shop to find one that would go all the way down on the head of the bolt. Came close to putting a cheap socket on the grinding wheel.

 

[boostranger]

Thanx guys thats exactly what i was looking for. this board is awsome i can always get answers to questions in a very short time. I will not be dropping the trans just pulling the motor but since it has 158,000 on the original trans that might be next.

thanx again for the great info