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Removing Heads

RufusExpo

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Joined
January 12, 2010
Messages
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City, State
Greensboro, North Carolina
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Ford Explorer XL
:us: USA :us:

Whats up Ruf here trying to remove the cylinder heads off my 93 explorer, but how do i get to the inside bolts located on the inner part of the heads how do i get to those 4 bolts do i take the lifters off or is it a special t-55 star that i use? trying to hurry up and get the heads rebuilt before the new year if your in the NC area do you know anybody that rebuilds heads or if i can send them off? And what can i use to clean the engine block up a bit alot of dirt and grime corvering the inner beauty.

:us:
 



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The lower bolts come off easy, but the top row requires the rocker arm assembly to come off. Yes, t-55 is the correct one. The whole head should come right off. Watch out, they are heavier than you think.

Also, when installing the new ones, be aware of the dowel pins, they sometimes make seating of the head a pain. It took me 10 minutes one time to get the driver-side to seat in as I had it just slightly crooked.
 






Call Clearwater Cylinder Heads, I bought my heads for 225ish fully dressed. Clean up and bolt on. The original heads are not well designed and are prone to cracking. If you insist on rebuilding them make sure they are checked properly for cracks.

Scotchbrite pads are available that come with a mandrel, put it in your cordless drill and clean away. I used a shop vac to clean the cylinders afterwards, that and some wd40 on rags. Make sure all the grit from cleaning the mating surface is gone. That stuff could wreak havoc with your rings. You are better off to stuff rags into the cylinders and keep as much crap out of there. Very important.
 






As mentioned, the stock heads, even those on the 93-94's, are prone to cracking, and it's generally just not worth it to pay for rebuilding them, compared to the cost of just buying new, aftermarket heads, which are beefier.

Even if they aren't cracked at all (yet), it's a better use of time and money to replace the heads while the old ones are off anyway. You lose a lot of money in gaskets if you have to pull the old heads off again when they do crack, plus whatever money you spent on rebuilding them.
 






The lower bolts come off easy, but the top row requires the rocker arm assembly to come off. Yes, t-55 is the correct one. The whole head should come right off. Watch out, they are heavier than you think.

Also, when installing the new ones, be aware of the dowel pins, they sometimes make seating of the head a pain. It took me 10 minutes one time to get the driver-side to seat in as I had it just slightly crooked.

In your specs you are using 95 heads do they just match up? what kind should i get when looking for new ones, its going to be a every day driver and i dont have 4x4 it will be a show truck with the subwoofers and rims and tint, i still want it to have a nice take off i plan on adding an air kit to it along with a new throttle bodybut is there anything else i need to look forward to changing it has well over 1,400,000 :D miles lol been fliped once and im at 756,000 now :thumbsup: , always make sure you change your oil
 






2nd gen heads (95tm and 97tm) are generally considered an upgrade because they bump up compression a bit and seem to have the weakness of the first gen (91 and 93tm) heads cured. They are a bolt on with no issues. You can et them in a bare casting or fully assembled. As said, don't bother with repairing used heads or consider used head, get new ones. Gaskets are price and you have to get new head bolts every time you open them up, the costs add up quickly.
 






2nd gen heads (95tm and 97tm) are generally considered an upgrade because they bump up compression a bit and seem to have the weakness of the first gen (91 and 93tm) heads cured. They are a bolt on with no issues. You can et them in a bare casting or fully assembled. As said, don't bother with repairing used heads or consider used head, get new ones. Gaskets are price and you have to get new head bolts every time you open them up, the costs add up quickly.


ok cool, would you use clearwater cylinder heads, or is there another company that sells these heads i have tried locally and people are talking 300 each the cheapiest :(
 






Don't the 95 heads bump compression? I would check to make sure you aren't getting too high, you don't want a truck that you can only put high test in...

I got my heads off EBay, Clearwater C H, Alabama C H, King (I think?). There are a few suppliers.
 






95TM heads do increase compression, and it isn't a recommended upgrade unless you want to use high octane (92-93) fuel. Generally it's a better idea if you're going with an aftermarket 410-422 cam and adding other performance mods.

I'd say stick with 90/93TM heads on a stock daily driver.

They are also a lot easier to source. Getting actual 95 heads seems to be tricky.

Clearwater seems to be the best source for now, Alabama Cylinder Head is out of business.
 






Ok thanks for all the help everybody hopefully i will have everything before new years and have it running and post some pics, and would anyone recommend replacing the timing chain? I have had people tell me this but before the head gasket blew there was nothing else wrong with my Ex, if i need to i will replace the timing chain, its not to expensive its just getting the timing and everything right, i just need a car to get back and forth to work, until i get something else what are your thoughts.


:us: USA :us:
 






Replacing the timing chain is doable, though it involves removing most of the components on the front of the engine to get access with the engine in the vehicle. If it has 700,000-1,400,000 miles on it, it could probably use a new timing chain.

While you're replacing the heads you should also replace the rocker arm assemblies if they haven't been replaced already. This will bump up performance and fix the valve clatter from worn stock rockers that older Explorers are known to have.
 






... If it has 700,000-1,400,000 miles on it, it could probably use a new timing chain....
With close to a million miles I would think it would definitely need a timing chain. (couldn't resist)
 






With close to a million miles I would think it would definitely need a timing chain. (couldn't resist)

Thanks, its something i have to think about this is almost $2000 i will be putting into my truck 1600 of it is engine work (AHHHH!!) and ford explorers are great trucks this is the first time this engine has ever been broken down like this, the vavle covers just started leaking they could have been replaced before i got it but while I had it the only thing replaced that was big to me was the water pump :) and would i have to set the timing again?
 






I went through this myself. It is a lot to consider, but if you intend to keep the truck it is an investment to do this kind of maintenance. If you do it yourself it is not so bad, though you ought to be comfortable in learning some things or have some basic wrenching skills all ready. I had both the basic and the willingness and it was not hard, just time consuming and laborious. You have been given some good advice. If you can afford the expense and time, do it.
 






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