Removing Rear Differential Help (Entire Axle Housing)

[TipsyMcStagger]

I'm headed to the pick-n-pull next week to find an 8.8" from a '95-'01 Explorer for a swap project. I've never removed a rear from an Explorer (I don't own one) and I want to make sure I've got all of the tools I'll need with me. I'm in FL and it'll be hot, so I'm trying to plan ahead.

Any tips on removing the complete rear? Tools needed? Tips? Tricks?

What about the E-Brake cable? I doubt I'll be able to remove it in its entirety. Should I just plan to cut it?

Thanks very much!

Tipsy

 

[pcam13]

its very easy, no big deal. Jack back up as high as needed, remove end off driveshaft, Support axle, Remove bolt out of rear shackle and drop if needed...(Cant remember what way the explorer axle sits, over or under) Cut the U bolts off, cut e brake anywhere youll probably need new cables anyways... Remove breather hose that goes to the top by the spare tire. Drop jack down and remove axle.

Im going off old memory here so forgive me if i missed something.

Edit- Just cut the shackle, The bolts are probably siezed. Took me 6 hours to get new shackles in.

 

[SoHK_alumni]

The e-brake cables are pretty easy to simply pop off if they've not rusted into place. If "stuck" at the caliper brackets, check at the union of the cables just forward the left rear tire.

You'll need a 11mm? 12mm? 12 point wrench for the drive shaft bolts. Def metric, better than even chance you won't be able to get a socket on them.

A set of deep sockets to get the u-bolts off. 19mm or 3/4" if I remember correctly. Some penetrating oil will be your friend on these!

Dropping the rear spring shackles would help but the axle will come out the side with the springs still bolted to the body.

 

[pcam13]

Honestly pop the cover off the diff. Its very simple... And it will let you know "REAL QUICK" what has happened inside there. Remove the bolts, slap it off, Inspect and reapply a new coat of rtv and stick it back on.

 

[boominXplorer]

12pt 12mm, 18mm, 13mm deep, 15mm wrench and breaker bar. Some patients and you can remove the ebrake cables but I would cut.

 

[Flash]

Use some PB Blaster or similar on the bolts but if it's a Florida car you probably won't have all that much trouble.

It's not that hard to un hook the hand brake cable.

When you reapply the RTV to the diff cover let it go off a bit before you press it onto the diff then replace the bolts figer tight.
When the RTV has set torque the bolts up.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Thanks for the helpful replies! I'll have to ask if they drain the fluids at the pick-n-pull. I'm a little reluctant to remove the diff cover and have the fluid drain onto the ground. I can only carry so many tools, so bringing a drain pan isn't very likely. Regardless, I'm in no hurry to resecure the rear cover as I'll be narrowing the rear 3" and using two passenger side axles.

Most of the Explorers at the yard are 4.0L. I'm assuming they are 2wd, if they spent their life in FL. I'm looking for disc brake ('95 and later?) 3.73 with a limited slip (door pillar code "D4.") Did both the 4x4 and 4x2 typically come with LSD's in the rear?

Tipsy

 

[wcjeep]

Is this for a Jeep YJ or TJ? Be sure to get all parts from caliper to caliper.

Some time ago I used Mountainoffroad.com for all of my conversion needs. You will need new Ubolts regardless of which vehicle it's going to. Don't be afraid to cut/remove the old Ubolts. You will likely need the Ubolt plates for the next vehicle.

 

[TipsyMcStagger]

Is this for a Jeep YJ or TJ? Be sure to get all parts from caliper to caliper.

Some time ago I used Mountainoffroad.com for all of my conversion needs. You will need new Ubolts regardless of which vehicle it's going to. Don't be afraid to cut/remove the old Ubolts. You will likely need the Ubolt plates for the next vehicle.

It's actually going into a 1963 Rambler Classic Cross Country. I'll be removing the leaf spring perches.

Tipsy