Replace factory sub in '07

[wolf2989]

I have a '07 Limited w/ the audiophile (ha!) system. I'd like to replace the factory sub with something that doesn't sound like its underwater.

Has anyone replaced the factory sub retaining the factory location with an outboard amp? If so, what size sub fits in there (depth and diameter)?

Thanks!

 

[Anime]

It's fairly common to replace the factory subwoofer driver with a higher quality unit.

It should just be a 8 in sub. Most anything that's not too deep with a huge magnet fits.

JL audio makes a direct replacement, the 8W0, which works good with the factory amp.

You can get other good subs for anywhere in the $50-200 range. JBL, MTX, Premier, Rockford, Infinity, etc.

If you want to replace the whole sub and factory enclosure, they sell aftermarket setups tht come with a box and driver, or you can get custom made boxes on ebay or at a stereo shop.

Using the stock amp is easiest if you're wanting to use the stock head unit, just throw an aftermarket sub in the stock enclosure and you're done. You can wire it up to use an aftermarket amp to power a bigger sub with the stock head unit, but it's easier to go all aftermarket (head unit, amp, sub)

Depending on what shape the speakers are in, you might want to upgrade those, too.

 

[ThePhoenix]

if your truck didnt come with the factory sub, is it just a mater of adding one and hooking to the amp? is it a plug and play into the stock amp?

or do i need a different amp?

 

[Nixthebomb]

the speaker amp and subwoofer am are two different amps

 

[ThePhoenix]

oh I see, the sub amp is in the back...how do i tap inot the audio...I mean how did ford do it for the sub amp?

 

[Nixthebomb]

It has a different HU if I remember correctly, the door speaker amp HU is the premium, the subwoofer amp is with the MACH HU

 

[Nixthebomb]

You could Also Buy a lineout converter (here) and hhok it up to the rear speakers

 

[wolf2989]

It's fairly common to replace the factory subwoofer driver with a higher quality unit.

It should just be a 8 in sub. Most anything that's not too deep with a huge magnet fits.

JL audio makes a direct replacement, the 8W0, which works good with the factory amp.

You can get other good subs for anywhere in the $50-200 range. JBL, MTX, Premier, Rockford, Infinity, etc.

If you want to replace the whole sub and factory enclosure, they sell aftermarket setups tht come with a box and driver, or you can get custom made boxes on ebay or at a stereo shop.

Using the stock amp is easiest if you're wanting to use the stock head unit, just throw an aftermarket sub in the stock enclosure and you're done. You can wire it up to use an aftermarket amp to power a bigger sub with the stock head unit, but it's easier to go all aftermarket (head unit, amp, sub)

Depending on what shape the speakers are in, you might want to upgrade those, too.

Thanks for the info, most helpful. Know any specs on the factory amp? RMS output, impedance? I will likely stick with the stock amp if its got a decent output. Otherwise its off to go dig an old PPI A600 out of the closet.

I'd like to inspect the factory sub to see if its a single or dual voice coil. How the hell do you get the fregging plastic cover off the side panel in the back of the truck? I felt like i was going to snap the damn thing trying to pry it off.

 

[Anime]

The factory amp specs are pretty sad, it's somewhere under 75W, 4 ohm, single channel. The worst thing about the factory amps is the distortion, they are at or over 10% THD.

It's pretty simple to just replace the sub and use the factory amp, things get difficult when you want to throw in an aftermarket amp and sub and use the factory head unit.

You have to take off the whole side panel to get to the sub. That means the ENTIRE panel from the passenger door to the rear where the sub is. You can probably snap off the panel to get to just the sub, but the tabs will usually break and there's no way to get it back on securely without, again, removing the whole panel.

 

[jrford]

The factory amp specs are pretty sad, it's somewhere under 75W, 4 ohm, single channel. The worst thing about the factory amps is the distortion, they are at or over 10% THD.

sorry, don't want to thread jack but I'm looking for the same information.

When i look at the SUB AMP there are 4 wires running to the speaker, shouldn't that be dual channel? I'm thinking of replacing my sub do the 10" fit?

I have replaced my stock base radio with an OEM Audiophile/Sub combo wasn't to bad or expensive, sounds good too, although i'm not looking for BIG sound.

 

[dahardgr]

I spent the entire weekend playing with my factory sub. I purchased a JL W1 - 4ohm to replace the factory sub.

Here are a couple of things that i found out, that might help.

The factory sub is a dual voice coil 8" sub, the factory amp is 2 channel pushing 60 watts @ 1.2 ohms to each voice coil. I attempted to bridge the factory amp to power the JL Sub. It worked, but the factory amp was not powerful enough to push that sub.

I purchased an amp and installed it with the High Output (speaker wire connection that the factory amp is installed with), the sub sounded pretty good at first, but then it started sounding like crap.

That is as far as i got yesterday, now i have to play with it some more today. There are a couple of things to test, one, the sub enclosure has sound deadening material inside of it, i think i will take it out and see how the sub sounds, because i think the JL needs the additional air space because it probably moves more air than the factory sub.

Also, i think that the voicecoil on the replacment sub might be bad because when it is playing now i hear a rattling or jingling noise, but i can push in on the center of the sub and that sound almost completely goes away.

To answer the question about the 10, there is no way that you will be able to fit a 10 into the factory sub enclosure. The JL 8 fits perfect, but there is definitely no room for a larger sub.

Getting too the sub is really not hard, it looks like it would be difficult to take all of the interior panels off, but i have now done it like 4 times in 2 days, you only need one tool to get to the sub and that is something to unscrew the seatbelt from the panel. I used a pair of vice grips.

I'm starting to think that i need to hook the amp up via rca cables if that is so, i think i need to buy the adaptor that connects to the factory amp that allows rca inputs, i need one that has 2 so i can connect my mp3 player as well.

 

[jrford]

ha, ha i'm doing the same thing, last two days. so far i'm finding the same thing you have, but i did wedge a 10" in. I also found the radio doesn't put out any bass signals unless the Factory Sub amp is hooked up. I tried to wire direct from the radio to the RCA inputs, but no sound came out of it. . .i tested the amp with my ipod hook up and it worked, kinda of funny sounding just listening to 240hz and below. So i spent the next few hours re-wiring the signal cable, power, still nothing. I would check with the volt meter always got 4.5volts. I was about ready to rip it all out and fleabay it but I hooked the old amp and speaker up and vola, puny sound again. So now i'm using the speaker level inputs and have big bass, but still some problems. I get rattle when it gets loud, the sub enclosure I’m sure is leaking; the turn on is only 6v and will not turn on my amp but it turns it self on and off with the speaker levels but with a tunk. . .today I have to redo the power and ground.