Replaced Engine 98 Explorer 4.0 L OHV it wont run

[WeChambers]

Replaced Engine 98 Explorer 4.0 L OHV backfiring exhaust and intake

I swapped out the 98 eng with a 99 4.0 L ohv eng. I had to change out the cam shaft sensor, oil pressure switch and Lower intake manifold. I didn't change out the whole lower manifold just the top part that the upper sits on, the 98 has 2 fuel lines and the 99 only had one. It will barely start and when it does it knocks hard a few times till the RPMS climb. Itll run a minute or two then die. The eng removed had a bad head gasket but ran good and the 99 4.0L rand good also. Now that I have it in the truck it wont run. Ive double checked the cam shaft sensor 4 times. I have the tool to set it up. I marked the out side when I removed it from the old eng and it lines up. I checked the fuel pressure and its I think it was 35 lbs. I verified plug wires were on the correct cylinders from the coil. 123 L side 456 right side. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Its a little depressing spending 5 days installing this thing and ive done something wrong or something broke and I just don't know it.
Thanks in advance.
Bill

 

[Mike65]

Cylinders are pass side 1,2,3, & drivers side 4,5, & 6. The way you wrote it it sounds like you are saying the pass side is 456. BTW the firing order is 1,4,2,5,3,6.

 

[2000StreetRod]

injector flow rate?

The 1998 has a return type fuel system with a typical pressure of 35 psi. The 1999 has a returnless fuel system with a typical pressure of 65 psi. Did you use the 1998 fuel rails and injectors? If you used the 1999 injectors make sure they have the same flow rate (color) as the 1998 injectors.

 

[WeChambers]

Hmmm I did use the 98 fuel rails due to the return but I believe I used the 99 injectors. Do you know what color they are?

The ones in the motor are yellow/white and the ones on my bench are red.

 

[2000StreetRod]

19 lbs/hr

My stock 2000 injectors were rated 19 lbs/hr and should be the same as your 1999 unless it was originally sold in California.

I don't know what was used in 1998.

 

[WeChambers]

LOL yeah that's whats in the truck. I must have just left them in and not thinking they were any difference. Thanks that at least a start. Ill start pulling them this week and change them out.

Im crossing my fingers.

 

[WeChambers]

Hey 2000StreetRod thanks for the info. I changed them out tonight. Its running 10 times better but still has a back fire and knock. Itll start and idle but every now and then youll hear a back fire in the exhaust and a knock. Any other direction I might look.. Im still suspicious of the cam position sensor. Im not sure itll have those symptoms.

 

[ranger7ltr]

Are the old injector seals leaking???

LOL yeah that's whats in the truck. I must have just left them in and not thinking they were any difference. Thanks that at least a start. Ill start pulling them this week and change them out.

Im crossing my fingers.

I would check to see if your old injector seals are leaking... If they are hard or brittle I would pull the injectors back off and change the seals top and bottom...You stated you have a backfire; I would really suspect an air leak at the injector ports...You could also have a fuel leak there and not know it yet...

On the knock where does it sound like it is coming from? It could be from a loose nut or bolt depending on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission...It could be from the top end of the engine...It could be from the bottom end...

 

[WeChambers]

Thanks ranger7ltr
Yes good point. I ordered all new seals last night thinking the same thing. I really wanted to see if changing out the injectors got me any where and it did. My hats off to 2000StreetRod for picking that out. I would have never thought that. Im hoping the new seals cure the back fire, the back fire is in the exhaust and it happens every 10 to 20 seconds. Then comes the knock after the backfire. That I haven't narrowed down but it does sound like its in the top end but in the back. I dont think its a loose nut or bolt, not the same sound. Im going to do a compression test on it and possibly a leak down now that I have it running. Ill post the results once I replace the seals and do the tests. Oh and I think this is worth mentioning. The vehicle has been stored in my garage for about 4 or 5 months. Just getting around to doing the swap. The fuel smells a little stale and I was thinking this might have some impact on the knocking noise.

Thanks for the guidance/help.

Bill

 

[WeChambers]

I have uploaded a video, Presently its backfiring through intake and exhaust. I have checked for a vacuum leak and I couldn't find one. I still have on codes.

here's the link. https://youtu.be/kcz7qamkbJg

 

[2000StreetRod]

plug wires

Recheck your spark plug wires - especially on the driver side.

 

[WeChambers]

Plug wires

Hmmm Im looking at all data right now and if what you are saying they are wrong. On the coil pack they say Passenger side is front of vehicle looking back
1,2,3 and drivers side is 5,6,4 ........... Im going to try it and Ill get back. Thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

coil numbers

Hmmm Im looking at all data right now and if what you are saying they are wrong. On the coil pack they say Passenger side is front of vehicle looking back
1,2,3 and drivers side is 5,6,4 ........... Im going to try it and Ill get back. Thanks

Those are the coil numbers as shown in my posted diagram. If you look closely you'll find them stamped on the coilpack. The cylinders are numbered front to back. You have to route coilpack terminal 1 to cylinder 1 plug, etc.

 

[WeChambers]

Holly Horse Power

2000StreetRod you hit the ball out of the park. I feel somewhat belittled for not verifying something so small. Ladies, gentlemen the wires were incorrect and after looking at Alldata again I should have looked and read more closely. I cant say it enough thank you 200StreeRod for sticking with me and walking me through the troubleshooting.