Replaced guage faces, got problems, advice? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Replaced guage faces, got problems, advice?

jtb1689

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 23, 2008
Messages
163
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City, State
Woodinville, WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 Sport Eddie Bauer
So I replaced my guage faces, to do so I did remove all needles and re-install them, I've already calibrated them all while driving and they seem to work fine. Except, when I turn the car off, the tach needle decides it wants to slowly ride up into the 1000-1500 rpm range, with the car off. If I turn the key to the on position, before actually turning the engine over, it shoots back down to 0 where it should be. So basically it works fine while the car is on, but as soon as all power is gone from the guage it sits up. Not a big deal, just a petty annoyance.

ALSO, in the whole midst of replacing my gauge faces I did something and I don't know what (that's why I'm here), but now my turn signals don't work, even though the hazards do and the lights also flash when setting the alarm on my car (aftermarket, 3 years ago when I got the car, so not recent) and my high beams and "flash to pass" still work. I'm getting zero response from the signals, no inside flashing, no relays clicking, front or rear, zero. Guess I ripped the wire from the lever or something, but just the signals one and not high beams?

Any ideas on either of those? It's a '93 sport eddie bauer by the way.
Thanks
 



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Check the fuse #4, that's what powers the turn signals. Fuse 5 powers the hazard lights.
there is a lt blue wire at the turn-signal switch connector that the 12v goes through to the flasher. It may be labeled "H" at the connector. You should have 12v there with the ignition sw in the "on" position
 






It was fuse 5 actually. I checked my fuse diagram and guess I missed the label on 5. Thanks guys, any ideas on the tachometer needle though?
 






You are right, I got those two backwards
 






The tach needle issue might be a bad ground connection or it could be the tach itself. Check the two connectors in the back of the cluster to make sure they are both seated properly
 






I'm just gonna let the tach sit for now, I need the ex for the next few days so I can bust into the dash later again. However, I just blew that same fuse again. Leads me to believe I've got a short somewhere? I know its one of those things that would be best for me to just take the dash apart again and start looking but any ideas off the top of your head? They worked the first few tries after a new fuse, but once I fired up the car and tried, it was blown again.
 






I would check for a wire being pinched against one of the column supports by the plastic shroud, start at the turn signal switch connector, especially that lt blue wire.
 






After doing that and blowing 2 more fuses I decided that that couldn't be the problem. So I look at the manual, the defroster is also circuited through that fuse, must have pinched that. pull some more dash out, check the wires, plugs etc. Maybe i wiggled something around and now its fixed. Nope, there goes another fuse. Oh, the reverse lights are also wired into that, huh... maybe something screwed up when I backed into that small pile of frozen snow left from the plows and it bent my extra reverse lights. Wiggle some wires, one completely disconnects, oh that was it. Blow another fuse. Hm.... :dunno:. The extra lights have their own fuse, just pull that and hopefully it works. VOILA! No popped fuse... that explains why it wasn't popping when I turned the car on, but only when I shifted passed reverse to Neutral right after turning it on...Wish I woulda checked that sooner... Funny how things always seem to happen that way. Thanks for your help through and through though. I will check that tach next week when I get a chance to rip into the dash again. Have a happy new year.
 






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