Replaced left hydraulic chain tensioner now really loud?

[2000StreetRod]

compression test

I advise against performing a compression test using the starter. That could result in valve damage. If you have access to a digital inspection camera you often can see interference damage.

If you have an air compressor with a spark plug fitting you can check for air leaks using the TDC mark and the firing order. It's easier with the valve covers off to confirm that the valves are not extended.
A visual inspection of the valves after removing the heads may not be reliable because of the shape of the chamber.

A slightly bent stem resulting in the valve not fully seating may not be obvious.

 

[mmasire88]

I had a couple of questions regarding some of the timing chain parts. I wanted to order the 4USA chain kit. I was thinking that the OEM chain guides lasted for 170k miles in my truck which is a pretty good amount of time, and that maybe I'd run the OEM chain guides with the 4usa chains/sprockets/tensioners to save a little money over purchasing all OEM parts. Any thoughts on this idea?

 

[2000StreetRod]

OEM chain guides

As far as I know you can no longer purchase just the OEM cassette chain guide. You have to purchase the entire cassette (guide, chain & sprockets). Many members have purchased Cloyes timing chain components to reduce cost and still obtain decent quality. What you purchase is a trade off between length of service and time and cost to replace. Some members are willing to replace the timing chain components in a year or two in order to save a few hundred dollars. In my opinion unless damaged due to another component's failure (i.e. guide or tensioner) the primary and camshaft sprockets and chains are good for at least 500K miles. The balance shaft chain and sprocket are smaller and weaker but still probably good for 300K miles. This thread may help you decide: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Parts Sources

 

[mmasire88]

Got some goodies in this week, will start digging into it next week.

 

[2000StreetRod]

hydraulic/spring tensioners

Make sure that the left and right hydraulic/spring tensioner pistons do not stick in their bores by compressing them a few times with your thumb. Also, make sure they are well lubricated before installing. If you have the compression rings use some grease to keep the rings from dropping out of position before tightening. If the rings are not centered there will be a large oil leak.

 

[mmasire88]

Make sure that the left and right hydraulic/spring tensioner pistons do not stick in their bores by compressing them a few times with your thumb. Also, make sure they are well lubricated before installing. If you have the compression rings use some grease to keep the rings from dropping out of position before tightening. If the rings are not centered there will be a large oil leak.

I replaced the front tensioner few weeks back and I'm not too sure about it. The old one came out really hard, and the new one went in really hard. It looked crooked in the hole like it was replaced and cross threaded at some point. The aluminum on the head surrounding the tensioner has oil stains and constantly looked wet. Before I installed that tensioner I actually let it sit in some fresh oil overnight before installing.

So, I will have to brain storm some ideas on how to get the tensioner threads straightened out if they're all buggered up which I have a feeling they are.

 

[mmasire88]

I've finally had a bit of spare time to work on my explorer today. Had a couple of questions perhaps somebody could help me with. Was having problems with a rough idle before the timing chain guides gave out.

This was in between the throttle body and intake manifold, it seems as if the bottom fins are almost nearly gone. Not sure if this could be related or not.

This I'm assuming has something to do with the EGR system. It mounted on the manifold, right next to the throttle body. It was absolutely finger loose, I simply unscrewed everything with my fingers and it came right off. Is this worth replacing? Is it possible to delete the EGR system? The threads are pretty messed up on it, looks like somebody had a hell of a time getting it off at one point. Its had the same code on it since I've owned it for the EGR system, at least I know why now!

 

[2000StreetRod]

"comb" gasket

I think the purpose of that "comb" gasket is to reduce airflow noise. It looks stock to me. Many members just eliminate it. I doubt it has any impact on your idle.

As for the EGR valve and associated sensors if the port that's attached with two bolts is missing a gasket or is leaking because of being loose that impacts your idle because unmetered air is entering the intake manifold causing a lean condition. If the threaded end that connects to the EGR tube is leaking an erroneous flow may be sensed. However, EGR is disabled when the engine is idling so that's not related to your rough idle. EGR reduces the temperature of the combustion chamber at cruise which extends the life of the valves. I think it also increases fuel economy. It is disabled at high engine loads (i.e. WOT) so it doesn't reduce your max performance. Don't delete it.

 

[mmasire88]

Yea, I wasn't sure about the spacer it had a bunch of gunk all over it wasn't sure if the fins on the bottom were broken off or what.

And for the EGR valve, that one is definitely not going back on. The larger threads look like it was at one point welded together with the piece that runs down to the exhaust and the interior threads are just destroyed the male threads look to be ok. So, I guess I'll just order a new one.

As always 2000StreetRod, your help is very very much appreciated!

 

[mmasire88]

Finished taking off the intake manifold and valve cover off today, turned into a huge job...one of the intake manifold bolts was stripped and another had a star bit broken off inside of the bolt head from a previous owner. Picture of the failed timing chain guides below.

You can't see in the pictures, but when looking at the chain from the front of the motor, the driver's side of the chain isn't even touching the chain guide. It has about 3/4'' slack when I push on the chain with my finger very loose on the one side. The opposite side of the chain the guide appears to be broken off at the top, and was not seated on the chain properly. A bit crooked.

Everything inside has a decent amount of sludge buildup(could be worse), the intake manifold as well as the heads. The intake manifold gaskets are in pretty bad shape, as well as the valve cover gaskets.

I have not been able to find any good DIY's on doing the front chains/guides with the motor in the truck but there looks to be a very good amount of room inside the engine bay once the rad/fan/shroud has been removed. Getting cold out very quickly, and I'd like to be able to drive the truck this winter and once springs hits I'll pull the motor and do the rear chains.

 

[2000StreetRod]

replacing driver side cassette in vehicle

Thanks for posting the photo of the EGR system module. That's exactly what I need to install on my DOHC V8 and didn't realize it was stock on the 2004 Explorer.

Many forum members have replaced their front cassette without pulling the engine. At around 2004 Ford made a change to either the head casting or the block casting. I have not determined which was changed and exactly what year. Anyway, the later casting(s) reduces the clearance for the cassette and it is nearly impossible to remove/install cassettes without removing the head.
However, the newer cassettes have a pivot pin that uses a circlip instead of a pressed pin retainer. The photo below compares the old (bottom) to the newer (top) design.

Make sure you get the new one and not new old stock (NOS). Then if you have clearance issues installing the cassette you can remove the circlip and pivot pin and install in pieces avoiding having to pull the head. Keep posting your progress and any problems you encounter and I'm sure you'll get help from forum members.

 

[mmasire88]

I did as much research as I could before order my timing chain kit, I went with the auto4usa kit. I read a post on here where a member has this particular kit installed and has about 40k miles on it thus far with no issues. It wasn't my first choice, but the reviews were not bad and the price was exceptional and it has the circlip to break the guide assembly in half. I'll post some close up pictures of the quality of the pieces for other members to see as well.

My first impression of this guide was pretty good. It appears to be descent quality. However, I do not have anything to compare it to.

The plastic clips holding the guide to the metal bracket are intact and doing what their intended to do vs. other kits I've seen where these clips are mis-shaped and not holding the guides in place. The original guide in my truck looks as if these clips failed, as the whole guide is loose on the metal bracket.

This tensioner has 7 leaf springs behind it, and is very very strong.

The hydraulic tensioners are both very stiff, and have no play in them. They seem to stick a little bit, but most likely due to lack of lubrication.

 

[mmasire88]

My first impression of this guide was much lower than the rest of the kit. It feels very cheap, the pivot point has a ton of play. sections of the back of the guide are not even resting on the metal bracket it's attatched to. I will not be using this piece on my truck.

 

[2000StreetRod]

rear cassette guide assembly

I am also unimpressed with the quality of the rear cassette guide assembly from your description and photo. The molding near the pivot is a weak point and commonly fails.

On yours there appears to be an imperfection that could act as the source of a fracture. Below are photos of a Cloyes/Borg Warner (top) and an older OEM part (bottom).

And here is the recent OEM part.

 

[mmasire88]

Piece of scrap angle iron laying in the garage made a nice tool to get the fan off the water pump.

I was wondering why my AC system wouldn't pressurize....

I was also wondering about the timing cover. Do I need to take off the water pump assembly first, and than the timing cover or can I Just take off the timing cover and the water pump assembly will come off with it?

 

[2000StreetRod]

save a gasket

If you leave the water pump attached to the timing cover you can remove the two as an assembly and save some time and a gasket.