Replacing a Starter

[cleaverc]

I have an '03 2WD, V6 Explorer. I have similar problems as others trying to start my truck. I have a brand new battery, but have had a problem at times with a continuous clicking and the engine not starting. Autozone ran a tester and the battery is good as well as the alternator, but the starter is not putting out any cranking volts. They suspect the starter is bad. I've located the starter on the engine, but I am wondering about how to disconnect the cabling to the starter. There appears to be a red plastic cover where the battery connects to the starter. Any tips or pictures (links even) about how to accomplish this? While I am not a car expert, I am fairly mechanically inclined (which means I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty) and this seems like a pretty straight forward task (and cheaper solution than the dealer).

Thanks for any help.

Chris

 

[imp]

I have an '03 2WD, V6 Explorer. I have similar problems as others trying to start my truck. I have a brand new battery, but have had a problem at times with a continuous clicking and the engine not starting. Autozone ran a tester and the battery is good as well as the alternator, but the starter is not putting out any cranking volts. 1. Starters only RECEIVE voltage from the battery, they "put out" only mechanical effort to spin the engine (when they work!). 2. The fact that you have "clicking" rules out the possibility of problems in the "neutral-start circuit", which includes the Trans. Range Sensor. 3, Did AZ check the battery terminals? Turn on your headlights- do they work normally? Sometimes, high resistance due to a poor connection at the battery can cause your symptoms; this happens far more often than failed starters. Remove batt. terminals, make sure the batt. POSTS are clean & shiny, as well as the terminals on the cables. Lubricating the connections before re-installing the terms. goes a long way toward preventing recurrence. I use grease! If headlights and a heavy draw like heater/AC blower on "high" function well at the same time, batt. terms. are likely OK.

They suspect the starter is bad. I've located the starter on the engine, but I am wondering about how to disconnect the cabling to the starter. Proceeding to the starter, there are 2 cables connected there, the one you mention (batt. +) and the other is the ground cable, often under the bottom starter mounting bolt. The red cover pries up and reveals a nutted connection. There will be a third connection, a much thinner wire, often fastened by a push-on connector. This is the lead which tells the starter to run, when the key is turned. BEFORE you mess with disconnecting ANYTHING at the starter, DISCONNECT the battery ground (-) terminal! It is not necessary to disconnect both terminals. After disconnecting the wiring at the starter, (some have the thinner wire nutted also), removal of (2) mounting bolts securing the starter to the flywheel housing will allow you to slip the starter out and away. AZ can check out the starter for you, if you bring it to them.

There appears to be a red plastic cover where the battery connects to the starter. Any tips or pictures (links even) about how to accomplish this? While I am not a car expert, I am fairly mechanically inclined (which means I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty) and this seems like a pretty straight forward task (and cheaper solution than the dealer).

Thanks for any help. Please do not hesitate to ask, if more questions arise! imp

Chris

 

[cleaverc]

Thanks for the info. Yea, AZ ran the test with a brand spanking new battery with headlights on and the blower on hi. The printout from their tester said the was no starting voltage - I'd wondered about that as well since in my mind I didn't think there was any electrical output, just mechanical as you mentioned. So I'm not exactly sure what they are testing. Perhaps whether it was drawing any amps??

Any recommendations for new starters? Should I go with the OEM from the dealer ($175), or are the starters from Advanced Auto Parts/Autozone/NAPA reliable, at a possible lower price? And new versus remanufactured?

Thanks again for the info.

Chris

 

[imp]

Many parts outlets have "lifetime" warranty on their rebuilt (and new) starters (good only for present owner), so they are betting that: 1. The owner will dispose of the vehicle before the part installed fails, and, 2. By the time the unite fails, if same owner, the warranty will have been forgotten.

I personally have no reluctance to buy and use remanufactured parts. Indeed, if you want to buy a NEW automatic transmission, you cannot! Ford will not sell a new one, only reman.

It does sound like AZ was telling you the starter was not drawing any current (amps.), which indicates that, assuming integrity of the cables from the battery, the starter is faulty. imp