Replacing Camshaft Synchronizer and Position Sensor. Did I do it right?

[rs2k]

I replaced the camshaft position sensor and camshaft synchronizer because I got code P0340 and the truck started missing badly. Both the vane and the sensor were destroyed. Finding TDC on cylinder one was a PITA. I was using the wrong mark to find TDC. I removed and re-installed the coil packs 4 times before I got it right. Please let me know if I did this correctly:

5.0 Engine:

1: Remove Coil Pack
2: Cylinder 1 is most forward cylinder on the passenger's side.
3: Unscrew sparkplug
4: Rotate crank CLOCKWISE as seen while looking at the front of the motor until I hear the compression stroke leaking air out of the spark plug hole.
5: Line up the timing indicator to the 0 mark on the harmonic balancer
6: Attach special tool to camshaft synchroniser
7: Put camshaft synchroniser into place. Line the tool on the arrow pointing forward. (Couldn't get it perfectly forward, but close)
8: Tighten hold down bolt
9: Remove special tool and install camshaft position sensor
10: Install coil pack



I did all that and the Explorer is still running horribly. No codes are showing up at all. I drove for quite a while and still no codes. I towed a boat and still no codes. Still running rich and stumbling. Any ideas?

 

[1997 5.0 xlt Guy]

You did it right but have you checked your plug wires for cracks

 

[rs2k]

I have not, but the explorer was running very well just before the sensor went out.

 

[1997 5.0 xlt Guy]

when you say that you couldn't get it perfectly straight, How close to straight is it ? Also did you reset the computer after replacement ?

 

[rs2k]

I left the battery disconnected for about 20 minutes while doing the work. The arrow is pointing about 5 degrees off center towards the passenger side. The synchronizer was bolted down with the tool in place though. I can't imagine that would matter... maybe it does? The old synchronizer was a good 25 degrees off to the driver's side and it had been working well until it died.

I think I found the problem. I just checked under the hood (now that it's dark) I can see the plug wires arching... I find it hard to believe those went bad at the EXACT same time the camshaft sensor died. Literally, the truck started running bad all at once and threw P0340. Maybe they were on the verge and removing and re-installing the plug wires four times finally did them in.

I'll get those replaced tomorrow morning and see if that doesn't solve the problem.

 

[1997 5.0 xlt Guy]

trust me i went throught the same exact problem lol I replaced the whole synchronizer and then it was the wires

 

[rs2k]

Thanks! I probably wasted about $20 in gas and a few hours of frustration for not replacing those wires when I should of.

 

[rs2k]

The thing that really confuses me is why are there no engine codes? The engine is running horrible. I'd expect a slew of codes.

 

[SoNic67]

What I did and worked perfectly:
1. Remove the coil pack. Remove the two bolts holding the sensor on the synchronizer.
2. Take a picture of the flag position in reference the the small window in the wall.
3. Remove the big bolt and extract synchronizer.
4. Install the new one. Rotate the base of synchronizer till you achieve the exact same RELATIVE position between the central FLAG and the sensor WINDOW. The central flag stays in place because is hold by the oil pump shaft. It does not matter the position of the whole assembly relative to the engine block, you just want to keep the sensor in a position that you can still install it and connect the harness. Tight down the big bolt to keep the base in place.
5. Install the sensor on top. Install the coil pack.
Don't mess with the cranckshaft at all.

PS: Usually the engine stops with one of the cylinders almost at top compression point (because the resistance of the compressed air). In my case it happened to be cyl #1, it doesn't need to be the same in your case. However, the RELATIVE position of between the flag and notch should be kept when install the new synchronizer.

 

[rs2k]

That's what I did the first time. When the truck continued to run poorly, I figured I must have done something wrong. I'm heading out to get new plug wires now. I'll report on the outcome.

 

[1997 5.0 xlt Guy]

mine didn't throw any new codes when the plug wires where arcing againts the headers

 

[rs2k]

Replacing the wires did the trick. She's even running a bit smoother than before.

 

[SoNic67]

Pay attention to the routing. I had one of my wire fell from the plastic supports onto the exhaust manifold and burn. It was sparking to the manifold.

I didn't replace mine, just use electrical rubber tape (3M, high voltage) to cover it back.

 

[1997 5.0 xlt Guy]

Yeah I spent about 1 hour on routing my wires just to make sure that they don't make contact and put aftermarket heat shields on them

 

[Triple5s]

Same issue here...5.0

So with the 5.0 is TDC at "0" on harmonic balancer or is it something else? I'm going through this exact same problem with installing the synchronizer and I've heard different things so I just want to be sure that everything is fine if its pointing straight to "0", on harmonic balancer, before putting new synchronizer in.

 

[Markaprice73]

Maybe helpful.
Installing a Ford Camshaft Synchronizer Video: on a 1999 4.0 Ranger
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmYehbDwuHw

 

[SoNic67]

So with the 5.0 is TDC at "0" on harmonic balancer or is it something else? I'm going through this exact same problem with installing the synchronizer and I've heard different things so I just want to be sure that everything is fine if its pointing straight to "0", on harmonic balancer, before putting new synchronizer in.

You don't need to be at TDC if you put the new synchronizer in the same position, like I said above.

 

[Triple5s]

I have since taken care of the problem but I needed to be sure about the whole TDC thing because I couldn't put the new one in the same position as the old one...the "half moon" or "flag" piece on mine had been torn or ripped off completely and pretty clean too, to the point I couldnt even tell where it was at originally so I had to find TDC (not really as bad as it sounds), take the old one out and put new one in.

 

[rs2k]

Doing the job was a lot easier than I thought it'd be. Spark plug number on is easier to get to. Loosen it up, turn the crank the correct direction until you hear air escaping then set the harmonic balancer to zero. Once the tool is on the synchro I don't think it matters which way it ends up facing as long as you can attach the wires back up in a safe location. I had originally done it sonic67's method, but since my plug wires were also bad, I thought that method didn't work.

The sensor was in a bunch of tiny pieces. The half moon piece was still intact on my truck, but since the syncro was squealing I replaced the whole thing.