Replacing Front Springs | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Replacing Front Springs

Mike Moyer

Active Member
Joined
September 22, 1999
Messages
78
Reaction score
0
I have a 93 XLT (2WD)and have just ordered SkyJackers 2" lift. How hard is it to replace the front springs? Is this something that has to be taken to a shop to do? Thanks.

Mike
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Front springs are not very hard to replace at all. Basically, what needs to be done is to have the vehicle raised. Then, place a jack under the end of the axle that you are going to be replacing the spring at. There is only one nut and spring retaining washer that hold the spring in place. This nut is metric but a 1-1/8" deep well socket will work just fine. You will need a couple of extensions of varying sizes to get down through the spring and to the nut. I would suggest using an air tool for the initial removal, but I have done it with breaker and a cheater before. Anyway, once the nut is removed, simply lower the jack and the bottom end of the spring should be free. The top of the spring, if it hasn't already fallen out, is held in place by a small tab that just needs the spring to be slipped off of. Installation is the reverse of this.
I would suggest purchasing at least a Haynes manual for this, besides, it will come in handy in the future.
Take care and happy exploring!


------------------
Todd Metzger
tmetz@umr.edu
'Off-Road and More!'
93 "Ford X 4" XLT
 






Hello Mike,

Todd is right, it is not very hard but I would get a copy of the manual before starting.

Also note that I just added the Rough Country Springs (see old post "Cheep way of lifting") I found using a spring compressor helps greatly with the install of the new springs. You will not need it to remove the old ones. Autozone and many other shops will rent you one for free. AZ charges $50.00 on your credit card and you get it all back when you return the tool.

Also while you are at the front, take care of your calipers. See the tips off of the main page.

Best regards.
hg


Best regards.
hg

------------------
'91 EB, 4dr, 2wd
www.grimmick.com
hank@grimmick.com
 






Hey thanks for the replies. I just got a Haynes manual. I that I know about the front springs, do you know how to add the rear Add-a-leaf spring on the back? Will this lift make a noticable difference on my truck or did I just waste $300?

Mike
 






Mike,
I am glad to see that you got the manual. I can also help with the rear springs, but first is the price that you mentioned. I am just curious as to whether you paid $300 for the skyjacker with just the two front springs and rear add-a-leafs. The reason that I ask is due to the fact that I have seen the above-mentioned lift for as low as $130. I was just checking before you do the install to make sure that you don't get suckered on the price.
Anyway, as for the rear leafs, it is actually a little more difficult than the front. Not by much, but it is a little. First of all, you will work with the rear just like you did the front, one side at a time. Jack up one side first by the frame, not by the axle. Place a jackstand under the frame now. Move the jack to the rear axle, same side, and support, don't lift, the rear axle. Now, disconnect the bottom of your shock for that side. There are one of two routes that you can take now. One is to remove the spring entirely which is longer in time but easier in the long run with installation of the add-a-leaf. Or, two is to leave the spring on which is shorter in time but harder in the long run with installation of the add-a-leaf.
The next step, after you decide what to do above, is to remove the u-bolts and the mounting plate. This will require a deep well metric socket to remove the u-bolt nuts(mine was an 18 mm). Once this is removed, raise the jack slightly and the spring should "pop" away from the axle. [If you decide to take the spring off, do it now.] Now, your last nemesis is the center bolt on the springs. I had to cut mine off because it was so rusted. Be extremely careful at this point because these springs are under quite a bit of tension. I would suggest a large C-clamp on each side of the center bolt and slowly let the pressure of the springs out once the center bolt is removed. After this, it starts getting easier. The add-a-leaf is placed above the next shortest spring to itself. If you are lucky enough, the company has supplied you with an extra long center bolt. This will make installation a breeze. Somehow, you need to reinstall all of the leaves, with the add-a-leaf and replace the center bolt. I had to use a C-clamp here again in order to place the short center bolt back through all of the holes and be able to get a nut on the end of it. Installation is the then the reverse of the above steps. The only other thing that you should take note of is to make sure that the head of the center bolt falls into the hole of the spring pad mounted on the axle. If it doesn't very easily, you may have to grab the drum and wiggle back and forth.
Now simply repeat this for the other side. One thing that I forgot though, remove the wheels once the vehicle is raised[makes it much easier]. As mentioned earlier, you Haynes manual will come in handy here too.
If you have any more questions, do not hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help. Take care and happy exploring!


------------------
Todd Metzger
tmetz@umr.edu
'Off-Road and More!'
93 "Ford X 4" XLT
 






Featured Content

Back
Top