Replacing Jackshaft & Left cam cassette tensioners...and more? | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Replacing Jackshaft & Left cam cassette tensioners...and more?

PATS in 1998?

I can't remember what year PATS was implemented. On my 2000 PATS disables the fuel injectors when the THEFT light flashes rapidly. Are you using the original PCM and key?

You can depress the Schrader valve stem to see if there is pressure. Be careful, it may shoot out pretty far.
 



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Not sure about PATS. There is not even a drop of fuel coming out of that schrader valve though.

When I take the fuel pump relay out, I am getting 12+v to the hot all the time (top prong) as I should according to Haynes.

With Key turned on the Haynes says I should get voltage to one other prong for 3 to 4 seconds.

When I do this I get a steady 12+ V to the bottom right...

I plug the relay in and I get the "click" Im suppose to get from the relay when I switch the key on.

The inertia switch is fine - i popped it up and pushed it back down to make sure.

So...I checked that there is power right before the fuel tank at the harness.
At the power (Pink/blk) I am only getting 7v...

Hmm...

So, I used two jumper wires and went directly from battery to the ground (blk) and power (pink/blk) of the harness going into the tank...I heard a "click" in the tank but that was it.

So, I am assuming the pump is in fact bad. But is anything else wrong? Am I only supposed to get 7v to the pump?

CIMG5672-1.jpg
 






fuel pump power

If you apply the + probe of a 12 volt supply to the pink/black wire and the - probe to the black wire the pump should run until the max pressure is reached. Try tapping the tank with something to jar the pump to rotate. I'm surprised you measured +7 volts at the harness because there should be no voltage there except for the few seconds after the ignition is switched from Off to Run. Are you sure you weren't measuring the PCM output to the fuel tank level sender (yellow-white wire and black/yellow wire to ground)?
 






Yeh the whole thing was just strange to me when I was running all the tests. I decided to just drop the tank and pull the fuel pump today. Got the pump out and put power directly to it and got nothing. So, put in a brand new pump and got everything connected again...(love those 9-5 Sunday workdays).

And..................*drum roll*

STARTED UP! PURRED LIKE A LITTLE KITTEN. RAN SMOOTH AND QUIET AND STRONG. WENT FOR THE MAIDEN VOYAGE DOWN THE ROAD AND BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 






Congratulations!

I continue to be amazed at your determination and endurance. At my age (64) two hours of grease, busting knuckles and frustration is all I can take a day. I'm thrilled that your Explorer is back on the road and running well. Good job!
 






info

what bolts are necessary to replace on the 4.0 sohc besides the jack shaft bolts.
FYI the cam lockdown toolkit otc 6488 is available at specialty auto tool rental.com $50 for 5 days+shipping 877-218-1596
 






TTY bolts

Off the top of my head the following bolts are torque-to-yield (TTY) and should not be reused:

Jackshaft sprocket retaining bolts front and rear
Harmonic balancer retaining bolt
12 mm head bolts
Connecting rod cap nuts/bolts
Flywheel/flexplate bolts
 






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