Hello,
The main brake line that runs from the front to the rear wheels has developed a leak on my 98 explorer. The whole thing is pretty rusted, as a result I am planning to replace the entire line. Can anyone give me tips on this?
Thanks
David
I sure can. I had the pleasure of replacing all of them. You should probably replace the one on the differential axle too.
- Get a double flare tool and tubing cutter and learn how to use it. You will need it for one flare.
- You will reuse the compression fitting on the ABS block, don't lose it. You need not remove the nipple in the ABS unit. Use a backup wrench.
- Use greenish AGS polyarmor tube, it is resistant to corrosion and bends without a tubing bender. Very good stuff. Advance and I believe Autozone have it. Take a sample of the old line to the store to get the correct diameter. I believe its 3/16"
6' length in the back (ends after the gas tank where brake lines emerge)
40" intermediate (I believe so, not written in stone, see where the union will go. Mine was by the fuel filter)
5'-6' in the front (read on for instructions)
Also you will need 2 brass unions for brakes.
DO NOT USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS.
-Starting with the back, remove the old line from the hose fitting(I changed my rubber hoses) and break off the line somewhere before it starts going into the frame. Do not remove any of the old brakeline in the frame. Ford knew its going to rust out and left extra brackets for the new line. Get a good pair of mechanix gloves for this job.
-Use the old brakeline as a model to bend the end of a 72" inch of brake line into that shape, and snap the tubing onto the clamps that are visible and the clamps that are hidden by the gas tank. Mechanical sense will tell you how to position the line. You may have to stretch your hand into the frame to get one, and others you can do by sticking your fingers between the tank and frame. You can bend this hose on the fly, there are some hidden curves.
Tape ends of the line so no crap gets inside.
-Now bend the intermediate portion. You can use a wire hanger as a model. This tubing can be adjusted as you install it, so it don't have to be perfect. Connect the unions. Secure the union with some wire ties, a good idea to reduce vibrations.
-The front portion is a bit tricky. Remove the fitting from the ABS module, and break off the line up until it enters the frame. You will notice a braided flexible portion of the line. You cannot get this anymore. You do not want to reuse any of this line due to rust.
-Instead of the braid, you will create coils. Get a 2-3" diameter can, and wrap a few coils of brake line. This will allow for body-frame movement, and is what you have to do. I suggest you make a model from wire, run it from the intermediate union, make the coils under the hood about a foot from the abs unit. You do not have to follow the stock tubing route under the hood. You will cut the remaining tube at the ABS end, slip the fitting over it (DONT FORGET THAT STEP), double flare the leftover tube and fasten it to the ABS unit. Look for a web tutorial on flaring lines. I like to file my edges a bit before I flare.
I ran my line above the metal shield, installed a stud thru an existing hole in the shield, put tubing protector on the brake line, and double wiretied the line to the stud. Here is where your creativity can come in as to how you run/secure the line. Just be sure you are away from anything that can abrade the line, exhaust, etc.
Also use wireties to support the union connections thru the line. You can always wiretie it to something (old brake line, fuel filter, etc).
Then bleed your brakes. I replaced ALL the lines on the truck, because its just a matter of time...The differential one is easiest (just use the old one as a model and flare one end - if you bend it in a different shape you may be able to use a stock length and not have to flare!)