researching replacing front brake calipers, seeing conflicting brake bleeding info.

[sehaare]

98 XLT SOHC 4WD. Having brake issues that might be the caliper, so before I go in, I'm doing my research.

I've been searching and I'm seeing conflicting information on if I can bleed the Anti-lock brakes without any special equipment. I'm old enough to have bleed the brakes on many cars that didn't have anti-lock but this would be the first time on a vehicle that has anti-lock brakes.

So the simple question, If I swap out the front caliper(s) am I going to be able to bleed the brakes myself or am I going to need to take it to a shop to have it done.

I'm also in the rust belt so I'll be looking at the brake line fittings conditions (how rusted and rounded off) before I fool with them.

Thanks in advance

 

[nameskreen]

You'll be able to bleed the brakes-no problem. As long as the abs pump doesn't get low. it's not an issue. I've changed calipers and steel lines on mine at different times with no problem

 

[sehaare]

You'll be able to bleed the brakes-no problem. As long as the abs pump doesn't get low. it's not an issue. I've changed calipers and steel lines on mine at different times with no problem

Thanks, now hopefully the brake lines aren't rusted away.

 

[CDW6212R]

Try very hard to not let any air into the brake lines. The ABS module has passages inside of it which do take a lot of effort to remove air from, plus a bypass path which is how bleeding flow travels. When you bleed brakes normally, zero fluid goes through the ABS small passages, there is a bypass for the fluid. So the less air you allow to reach the ABS module, the less which can possible get trapped inside.

That means plug every hose that you disconnect, quickly, and keep it plugged until the new part is installed. I like golf tees, they work well enough, and are easy to keep handy in a tool box. Have the new caliper bolted on before disconnecting the old caliper's brake hose. That way you will be able to swap the hose onto the new caliper, very quickly.

Spend a lot of time on the line connections, spray them with penetrant early on let it soak in. Kroil is a very good choice to help break bolts and connections apart.

 

[C420sailor]

I’ve replaced my hard front brake lines without doing an ABS bleed.

Keep the res full and capped. Only disconnect the lines/calipers when you’re ready to go, and immediately connect the new ones.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I too have replaced calipers and hoses a few times. Keeping the reservoir full of fluid is a big key, with the cap off if you have help to maintain that level. I have a pressure bleeder that I like for both bleeding brakes, and maintaining the reservoir.

You can also fill the bleeder container with 2+ quarts of fluid, and gently add slight pressure, and that will keep plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Note if you do that, afterwords you must thoroughly empty the bleeder tank and the lines, plus flush them well with water. Any brake fluid left in the line will destroy it over time, and the brake fluid is bad of for the seal of the pump inside the container. I have a second one of those pressure bleeders now, one needing a new hose(I left some fluid in it for about a month).

Stopping the fluid from draining out at the point where it's disconnected is the most important. If you limit the time and fluid that gets out there, anyone can easily close the system and bleed the brakes in any way, to push out the small amount of air that gets in there.

 

[J_C]

Agreed, you can DIY as long as the fluid reservoir does not empty to the point where there's air in the lines at the ABS module.

Rusty lines, in addition to pre-treating with penetrant, it can help to have a high quality flare nut wrench to grab on as many sides of the nut as possible, and if it seems seized to the brake line, try holding the nut still and unscrewing the caliper off of it instead of turning the nut.

It's really easy to twist a line in two, break it because rust has seized the nut onto it, but ultimately if it's that bad, you should replace the line as soon as reasonably possible.

What is the specific brake issue? If the caliper seems to be sticking, it could just be you have excessive rust on the bracket slide rails, or the pins due to dried up grease. Rarely there can instead be a collapse internal to the soft line. If the soft lines are the originals they are due to be replaced now too, but of course every nut you have to take off at a hard line, risks the hard line needing replaced too, once a certain amount of rust has built up.

 

[Pete Deering]

On my 95, I replaced all my brake lines, replaced brake calipers, brake pads with no problems at all bleed my brakes.