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Reverse getting worse!

nolongerjips

Member
Joined
December 9, 2008
Messages
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City, State
Trinity, AL
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 XLS 4x4 Auto
Have a 2000xls 4.0 pushrod. 5r55e. 4x4

My reverse has been slipping for about 2 years, but is getting alot worse now.
It's to the point to where I can only go in reverse in 2x4 or 4x4 low.
If I try to reverse in 4x4 high, it just does nothing.

Even when I do get it to go in reverse, the rpms have to be well above 2000 to start moving.

Has about 147,000 miles, but this has been noticable since at least 125,000.

About a year ago I had the filter replaced and the tranny flushed, to no avail.
Dont know if this is related, but I do get the 2-3 slip a little bit as well.

Is this common? Is there a valvebody fix for this or do you think my bands are fried and it needs to be replaced or rebuilt?

It's getting bad, and I am about to install 33x12.5's, TT, Shackles and 3" BL, and just think this might finish off my tranny.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
 



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How can that be if it happens in 2 wheel drive? Forgive my ignorance... I hate being ignorant about HOW something works - but I guess I should do more reasearch before posting--- But does a xfer case slip? isnt it chain or gear driven on my model? theres no clutch system in there is there?

Ive seen the sticky on the 2-3 shift- If I need a tranny I hope to get something beefier (MAYBE 700r4), but I'd REALLY like to convert it to manny tranny.
 












i am getting the same problem and the transmission does have clutches. o have to wait like 20 sec in order for r to ingauge
 












I'm not understanding two things... Here's what and why.

If it was the transmission, why would it make a difference if it was in 4auto, 4high, or 4low?

If it was the transfer case.... how? The drive to the rear driveshaft is straight through. There is nothing to slip between the input and the rear output shafts... Unless something is broken, if the input shaft moves, the output shaft moves.

My thought on a slipping reverse points to the trans, but I'm just not clear how shifting the transfer case would have any bearing on it??

-Joe
 






It matters if I'm in 2x4, 4x4H or 4x4L because...

In 2x4 mode there is less that the motor/tranny/torque converter has to turn...

In 4x4Low, the torque is multiplied and it is able to turn the wheels.

In 4x4 high the torque output is multiplied LESS and therefore it takes WAY more RPMs to muster the power to overcome the slippage...

I hope I am explaining it right... or that it makes sense what I am trying to say...

But yeah - as the other guy said before me... put it in reverse and it takes SEVERAL seconds to engage - and revving up the rpms decreases the time to engage. Reversing up a hill in any gearing combo is very difficult - need 2500+ rpms...
 






It matters if I'm in 2x4, 4x4H or 4x4L because...

In 2x4 mode there is less that the motor/tranny/torque converter has to turn...

In 4x4Low, the torque is multiplied and it is able to turn the wheels.

In 4x4 high the torque output is multiplied LESS and therefore it takes WAY more RPMs to muster the power to overcome the slippage...

I hope I am explaining it right... or that it makes sense what I am trying to say...

That doesn't make any sense to me because you don't have a 2wd mode. You have 4auto, 4high, and 4low. In 4auto and 4high, everything turns at all times. In 4low, you get the torque multiplication of the low range gears, but everything still moves all the time. The only torque multiplication you get is in 4low. In 4auto and 4high, it's a direct 1:1 input to output ratio.


But yeah - as the other guy said before me... put it in reverse and it takes SEVERAL seconds to engage - and revving up the rpms decreases the time to engage. Reversing up a hill in any gearing combo is very difficult - need 2500+ rpms...

That sounds like the classic symptoms of a common trans issue. Has nothing to do with the transfer case.
 






Gotchya -- so 4 auto means there is never truly a 2 wheel drive situation?

I can tell when the front locks in tho- I feel it and I can hear a little whine. So I know that the front tires arent always grabbin. I dont mean to get off on a tangent. I guess I can explore the stickies and do more research on exactly how the system works on my particular application (this is the first 4x4 auto hub, push button system Ive ever had - all the others have been completely manual)...

... but it begs the question, is there a simple fix for a common problem? Or as Brooklyn says I have to tear it down and get into the gears? Only reason I second guess is it sounds involved, as in the tranny has to come out - and if that's the case - I may as well buy another one and upgrade it OUT of the truck and install when I get a chance. thoughts? its appreciated guys.
 






Wait a minute.... push-button? Auto-hub?? Are we talking about the 2000 XLS in your signature that you mentioned in your first post? Or am I missing something here?.... A 2000 should have a knob, not push-buttons, and should not have locking hubs of any sort.... :confused:
 






I said push button - only cause its a common term - it's the switch "auto", 4High, 4 low. Is a better term shift on the fly 4 wheel drive (wasnt that an old jingle in the early 80's??)

Its the switch!
 






I assumed they were auto hubs... there are no hubs at all - you got me. Thats me typing faster than my brain working.

Forgive my ignorance! I do know about the search button! Lol - thats how I found my 883 and Warrior shackles and which led me to post this, because I am putting 33 12.5's on there, and was wondering ultimately if this would finish off my tranny!

As I hate being ignorant to this technology stuff! lol

my past rides were 84 Bronco 351w, 85 Bronco 302, 87 Bronco II 302 conversion, lift 38" super swampers (want to see pics? it was COOL!)

this is my first with all this new fangled electric stuff
 






When I start hearing phrases like 'push-button' and 'shift on the fly' and 'auto-hubs' I start thinking that we're either trying to troubleshoot a different vehicle (and the thread should be in the 1st-gen forums) or the person posting is simply mixing old terminology with a newer product's features. Not a big deal unless we're talking about two different vehicles...

For the record, it should be 'the switch', '4auto' (not 2wd), and the system is called 'Control-Trac Automatic Four Wheel Drive'

OK, now that we've got that cleared up... We now return to our regularly scheduled thread....

Sounds like BrooklynBay is on the track with the trans issue. I'll defer to him for all things transmission.
 






Thank you and a newbie apology for mixing old terms with 2nd gen newer technology and confusing you guys! Now I know and knowing is half the battle... Gi Joe... (wait - that's old too...)

Yes - back to the post!

Hey Brooklyn... is that a complete removal of tran? sounds like it! I tear down motors, and swap em - but when it comes to electrical or digging in auto tranny guts... Umm....

Thanks for the Forum's collective patience with me...
 












If it was the transfer case.... how? The drive to the rear driveshaft is straight through. There is nothing to slip between the input and the rear output shafts... Unless something is broken, if the input shaft moves, the output shaft moves.

I lost reverse when my t-case died. All forward gears worked except I had the grind while coasting.

A combination of the rear bearing allowing the main shaft to move around and a worn rear shift rail bore caused the high/low collar to disengage.

But yeah that's not going to happen unless its broken. I also agree the t-case is not the issue for the OP.
 






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