Ride Height Adjustment Procedure (Front & Rear, Explorer AWD 4X4-97)

[SoNic67]

Probably now you will need new keys for T-bar. Like the ones for lifting the front, because that's what you did in a way - even if the ride itself stayed the same, you needed more torsion to get the same static upforce.
I have a V8 with "1" and "F" code, I would like to replace the front from "1" to anything else, but that alignment was what kept me not doing it.
LE:
Don't you have bigger brake dives now, with the softer front? And don't you have more "lean" on curves?
Both might be alleviated with better shocks (higher dampingrate), bigger swaybar (only for curves)... But that might take away the smoothness.
For my driving style, I think I need a higher front springrate.

 

[shahper]

New Keys will take sometime to arrange as I will have to order online. No Local availability.
Yes, "L" is quite out of range for a V8.
I saw in yard one V8 4X4 4door with "B" and "F" but not remember if that was with air suspension or not.
NO, there is not at all any bigger brake dives, i found it just normal as well as not much lean on turns. I tested it on roundabout at aprox 60km, ride was well in control.
Distance between tire and fender is just 4.5" and front is not that much soft but better than before.
It took only 20 minutes to change T-bars and I am crazy enough to give another try to "B" too.
I got surprise from alignment workshop that, my ride is at max camber adjustment and they can not make any further change in this, before ride was almost OK.
Do you think camber has any relation with ride height?

 

[shahper]

My apologize, I took ride for off road to test and after 1/2 an hour drive i took it back to on road and found it strange, ride is almost 1-1/2" down and with bad front suspension response.
I was wrong and you were 100% right. Front suspension do not response now when there is a sudden bump.
I am going for "B" with a to your experience.

 

[SoNic67]

Hey, it's all good if you have the time to experiment
I was thinking abot the front mod but I cannot see yet what can be better. Weight it is the issue. And I cannot have those brake dives or leans - I drive pretty aggressive.

 

[shahper]

Yes, it is. I have learned a lot and happy somehow I could manage it.
I installed "B" T-bars. No doubt, It is better than "D" but still not so soft on small bumps.
Should I go for Shock absorbers?
Ride height is balanced and I believe there is nothing more to do other than shocks.

 

[SoNic67]

The monotube shocks have a high-pressure nitrogen chamber and a floating piston. When a bump is hit, the gas compresses first like a spring and when the pressure increases, th efloating piston starts to move damping the osscilation. It's like adding an air spring in series with the shock.
I do like it...
Alternative are the variable valving shocks. 2, 3, 10 stages. But are not as smooth as the infinite variation from the compressed gas.

PS: All the shocks have some gas inside (low pressure nitrogen). But the classic ones use that gas just to prevent oil from foaming, there is no "gas spring" effect like in the monotubes.

 

[shahper]

Thanks for all the details, i am learning a lot.
i asked the dealer for monotube shocks, they will arrange in 3 days as that is in their other branch in other city. I inquired them for front only, for now.
Do you recommend used shocks from junk yard? if yes, then how to check the part number to see if they are monotube?

 

[SoNic67]

The stock shocks are just regular ones - single damping, low pressure. I wold not touch a shock from Jk Yd.
I did install the sonotube shocks on rear first, since that is the worse case scenario - and you'll get best bang for the buck.
On front I have Monroe Sensatrac (dual damping, low pressure) and I am planning to go monotube soon (need to fix other things first).
Those Sensatrac are nicer that OE what I had there before, so it is kind of a waste... but once I "tasted" the monotubes on rear, there is no doubt for me that I will change them on fron too.