Running fine then it quit

[1998rollover]

02 Sport Trac with 1998 V8 Mountaineer drivetrain swap.

Went to Subway last night. Got in the truck to come home, started it up and after about 5 seconds it quit.
Checked all the fuses, they're fine. Could smell it's getting gas but zero evidence that it's getting spark.

Recently it's had new coils, new cam sensor, new EGR valve, pipe and the sensor that connect to that pipe, new TPS and IAC. Also installed a new dual row roller timing set last year.

After a bunch of cranking it just stopped. I'm thinking got a cylinder full of gas, so I had AAA haul it home.
This morning I tried again and after about 4 turns over it won't crank. Oil level shows about 1qt low.

No codes in the PCM due to having pulled fuses to check them.

Shouldn't be the cam sensor because these things will run without it. Found the one on my all stock 1998 Mountaineer was broken with the magnet rattling around, still ran. Gets better MPG since I replaced that.

It's long had a problem where the fuel pump fuse corrodes just enough to stop it, so I remove and replace that 50 amp fuse and off it goes again. Still does that despite anti-oxidant silicone grease on the fuse contacts. Has the Sport Trac fuse box underhood. But this time it's not that because it's getting fuel.

 

[koda2000]

Pull the spark plugs and crank it to see if you've got cylinders filled with gasoline. If you do, you may have already have bent connecting rods (game over). If you're not getting spark you need to be looking at your crank senor and its wiring. That's what controls spark.

 

[1998rollover]

I'd also replaced the crank sensor while trying to figure out why it was running so poorly and super rich. Forgot about that one.

 

[koda2000]

I'd also replaced the crank sensor while trying to figure out why it was running so poorly and super rich. Forgot about that one.

If you have a bad crank sensor or a problem with it's wiring/connector, your truck will not run poorly. It will not run at all.

My '97 wouldn't start occasionally. No spark. If I'd wiggled my crank sensor connector it would start right up and not have another problem for 6 months or more.

You might also want to disconnect the PCM harness from the PCM and re-seat it.

 

[Thadigus]

If it's still not running I'd take a look at if you're getting spark, then it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do a compression test and see what's going on in that department. Those compression tests can tell you a surprising amount. I assume you're getting fuel.