Rushing/Sucking air sound when accelerating

[Ravenloft]

Good Day All, New to the forum so forgive my insolence...

I was going reading through this thread and I thought I saw a solution but I will post up my problem ..dont scold me if I duplicate.

I have a 2006 Mercury Mountaineer V6 AWD. The problem I'm having is when I'm driving -- over 50 mph I hear like air rushing or being sucked into something.. it is coming from under the hood. If stop on a hill and then try to start moving again it takes a looooong time to climb the hill, feels like it is struggling and does not have much power. I took it to the mechanic and some work was done on it... it was working fine now the problem is back again. Also when the problem was fixed the gas pedal was tight - I had to apply a descent amount of pressure on the pedal. When I pressed on the pedal the car would fly up hills even if I stopped and then accelerated from a stopped position on the hill. When the car was without the hissing sound driving on leveled roads highways and city was great. I was able to feel the power. This was great but short lived. With the problem back the gas pedal does not feel tight... by that I mean I press the gas pedal and it goes almost to the floor.

Also the engine light would come on when I accelerate fast and hard or if im going up a hill at a fast speed. The light would stay on for two to three days and go out. If I accelerate up a hill or drive on highway for a long way the engine light would come. Then three days later it would go out.....and this keeps on repeating..

I had Autozone check the codes for me... one time it was a P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
Another time the code generated was for a faulty oxygen sensor.
Then yet another time I took it to a mechanic and he said the code generated meant i needed a new Throttle Body.... So i'm hesitant to throw money and it could be something simple....

Anyone has any ideas??

I noticed someone mentioned the Vaccum Check Valve could that cause an issue like that? And if so would any generic Vaccum Check Valve work or should I try for MotorCraft?

I just starting to read and learn about cars so forgive my car ignorance.....
Thanks in advance!!

 

[07EddyB]

If I understand your post then no - the vacuum check valve is not your problem. It only affects the HVAC system and only exhibits a hissing sound in the cabin. There are no drivability issues involved. Can't help you beyond that.

 

[Ravenloft]

If I understand your post then no - the vacuum check valve is not your problem. It only affects the HVAC system and only exhibits a hissing sound in the cabin. There are no drivability issues involved. Can't help you beyond that.

OK Thanks!!!
Yesterday engine light went out --- today it came back on when i tried to drive fast and hard on the high way. The code generated: P0193

 

[Rcflyer330]

It could be a clogged fuel filter causing the p0193 code. But you would need a obd 2 scanner with live data and preferably freeze frame data when the code was set to diagnose.

 

[Ravenloft]

It could be a clogged fuel filter causing the p0193 code. But you would need a obd 2 scanner with live data and preferably freeze frame data when the code was set to diagnose.

So a fuel could possibly cause pressure to build up in the fuel tank and push a P0193 code?? I was thinking of changing the fuel filter out myself but i dont want to have any leaks. Plus i dont have a lift.. I may just have to let a mechanic change it out. Also would a fuel filter be changed out during a tune up?

 

[Rcflyer330]

Well i just googled the code to find out what conditions could set the p0193 code this is the website I went to
https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...re-sensor-circuit-high-input-by-jamahl-walker

 

[Joey Threesticks]

Fuel filter resolved a similar issue for me. Filter can be accessed without lifting the truck if you're a smaller person. I'm 6' and 170 lbs. and I got under there to change it.

These filters can be very clogged before they start to exhibit issues, but they're easy enough to change. Just try not to break the clips on the fuel line when you remove the old one.

As far as the rushing noise, are you running the AC? Mine sounds like a jet engine if I sit and idle with the AC for more than a few minutes and then try to drive.

Hope that helps!

 

[Ravenloft]

Fuel filter resolved a similar issue for me. Filter can be accessed without lifting the truck if you're a smaller person. I'm 6' and 170 lbs. and I got under there to change it.

These filters can be very clogged before they start to exhibit issues, but they're easy enough to change. Just try not to break the clips on the fuel line when you remove the old one.

As far as the rushing noise, are you running the AC? Mine sounds like a jet engine if I sit and idle with the AC for more than a few minutes and then try to drive.

Hope that helps!

I am opting to replace the fuel filter now. I do have half the problem fixed with the hissing air rushing sound..(the hissing came from front right under the hood and rear right near the gas cap) Sometime ago my gas cap broke and I purchased one of those universal ones from Autozone. I was told it would fit my truck. one of the places i would hear the hissing sound was the right side, rear. So i decided to get a OEM Motorcraft gas cap. I also replaced my air filter with a Motorcraft air filter. The shop seem to use a generic air filter. And guess what the sound disappeared. Seems neither the air filter nor the gas cap had a proper seal. I noticed when I placed the air filter in the compartment it was harder to press the clips. With the generic air filter the clips offered no resistance when closing air filter compartment. The Motorcraft gas cap when i compared the two had a thicker sealing ring ( i don't know what it is called). I am monitoring to see if this has really solved the air rushing sound...

The check engine code was there for a few days after replacing the filter and gas cap. It went out then came back on when I got on the highway then it went out this morning on my way to work. I do a 25 mile commute to work one way. Lets see what happens... So far seems i have two options replace fuel filter or replace Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor.

Thanks!

 

[tripplec]

Some parts its best to use the OEM to guarantee proper operation. A name brand Wix filter would be safe but I'd stay away for no name made in china filter and other key part such as T-stats as well. If you are doing the fuel filter get one from Ford and you're done.

 

[Ravenloft]

Some parts its best to use the OEM to guarantee proper operation. A name brand Wix filter would be safe but I'd stay away for no name made in china filter and other key part such as T-stats as well. If you are doing the fuel filter get one from Ford and you're done.

Mine slightly older
2006 Mountaineer AWD V6
30,000 Milesk when bought
Currently 175,000Miles
Regular stock / No Mods.

This truck has been pretty good us.