separation anxiety

[catdaddy]

Heard some grinding from left front wheel. Removed the rotor to check bearings & the races will not come out from the rotor...New rotor?..Ever happen to anyone?

 

[92exp4x4]

Are they damaged? The races are pressed into the rotor. Sometimes new rotors will have them others will not.

You can work them out with a little patience, a screwdriver and a hammer. Be careful not to damage the bearing surface when installing the new ones.

 

[Anime]

On most rotors, those things are pressed in there GOOD with a hydraulic press. I doubt races that have been rusted in there for many years are coming out in one piece.

I sprang for new rotors, which had races already pressed into them. There didn't seem to be any space to work them out, so I just used them with new bearings. So far no problems, though usually the thinking is it's best to use bearings with the supplied races.

 

[92exp4x4]

I have done it both ways, but I much more prefer getting those with new races. Quicker install time, either way works.

 

[catdaddy]

Put new rotor on, still grinding. The noise is when braking only & at speeds from 25 mph to stop. This is 2wd...U-joint? Been looking @ some threads and all are 4wd. Any input, gonna roll under and see whats what.

 

[Anime]

If it's only grinding when braking, it's probably the caliper. Check the caliper slide pins, brake pads, anti-squeal clips, and the caliper piston itself.

Also be sure the wheel bearings are torqued correctly. Loose wheel bearings will let the assembly wobble and possibly squeal/grind, especially under braking force.

There aren't any u-joints on the front wheels of a 2WD.

You might have to inspect other possible causes, even if it sounds like the grinding is from the left front, it might be the rear drums, or something else.

 

[catdaddy]

Was thinking drive shaft was grinding, have since discovered I have no rear brakes. Working back from the wheel cylinder to see if it's the RABS valve. Anyone got any pics of a bypass of this valve?

Cracked the line up to the valve, dry as a bone...started & pumped the brakes, nothing...Want to bypass it, is there a part # for the union?

 

[92exp4x4]

It is pretty straight forward on you 92. Just get a male to male union, and two new male flare nuts. You can get them at most parts stores. Cut the old stuff off and there should be enough line to pull both of them straight and connect them. If not just get a small pre-made piece of 3/16 line and 2 flare nuts with 2 male to male unions.

You will need a brake line double flaring tool. The cheap ones are just that- junk. I got a craftman one for about $65 after the advance auto parts one broke with just hand pressure.

I don't have part numbers but they should be able to help you. Everything but the master cylinder is SAE on your truck.

 

[catdaddy]

Found some fittings that worked. Pedal sorta soft but the brakes work fine, which was also the source of the grinding noise. EF has done it again...

 

[92exp4x4]

You may want to bleed the brakes some more. There should be no difference in feel with the bypass. Chances are you still have some air in the system.