Serpentine Belt

[casey_wa]

Wow, sure is nice to be able to work on an engine out of the vehicle! ...and that is one heck of a serpentine belt.

I do appreciate the info on the bolts for removing the tensioner. I just replaced the pulley on the tensioner and not the whole set up...along with the upper idler pulley.

I think the 96 Explorer 5.0 is set up differently than the Mountainer. Accessing the tensioner from the top is clearly not an easy task...accessing from the bottom was a piece of cake. I breezed through swapping the belt and tensioner from underneath. I had removed the front wheels and the inside wheel well aprons since I needed to access the plugs to swap out wires. Just one bolt to replace the tensioner pulley and when it was time to install the belt I just used a section of copper pipe over the ratchet handle resting on top of the chassis rail. My hands were free to adjust the belt on all the different pulleys.

Swapping the plug wires is another story...took forever. Course I was being diligent and careful.

I took some digital photos and will get them posted. It is 2245 hours and it has been a long day.

Casey

 

[huskyfan23]

Just changed my belt, took about a half hour since I did it wrong .. Or the hard way. I didn't search for how to do it, just paid attention to the label. I took a 3/8" wrench and tryed the bolt on the front of the tensioner. Didn't feel right so I then went under and loosened via the bolt on the back. That worked, then I needed to shove a ratchet in there to hold my wrench. Routing wasn't so bad but I wish I would've searched first! My biggest problem was loosening the thing. Oh, and my belt was $45 after tax from Schucks. This is supposedly supposed to outlast all the others by a big percentage.

 

[tmsoko]

I have and will only use the Goodyear Gatorback. They last a long time and have EXCELLENT traction (needed for the ~30-40hp transferred into my blower!

 

[casey_wa]

...to loosen the tension on my 5.0 v8 I used a 15mm socket. Seems that everything on the engine is metric. Did not know anything about the manufacturer of the serpentine belt until after I picked it up...it was in fact a Goodyear Gatorback. Got it from Action Auto for $33.99. I have not been pleased with the service personnel at Schucks...the folks at Action Auto have been great, they are more interested in education and service than they are in trying to sell you some part.

 

[Rhett]

Originally posted by huskyfan23
Just changed my belt, took about a half hour since I did it wrong .. Or the hard way. I didn't search for how to do it, just paid attention to the label. I took a 3/8" wrench and tryed the bolt on the front of the tensioner. Didn't feel right so I then went under and loosened via the bolt on the back.

How did you fit the 3/8" wrench in there with the plastic fan in the way?

 

[huskyfan23]

I went from underneath. The back has a bolt that I twisted. It was a 1/2" wrench actually, though the sticker said 3/8".

 

[NCG8R]

For a '96 V8 I agree with bottom access looks like the only way. We have a "tension pulley assembly" where the base is bolted to the engine block and a spring loaded arm with the pulley that applies tension. I am not removing the "assembly" so I do not need to mess with the bolts that attach it to the block. How do I release the tension? Do I use the bolt in the middle of the pulley and apply counter-clockwise motion?

Casey_wa - where did you attach the 15mm socket? The copper pipe cheater is good but where was the socket attached?


This all may become obvious once I get into it but any suggestions to save time are helpful.

 

[tmsoko]

The bolt on the center of the pulley and pull up with wrench toward passengers side uf pulley. Clock wise to release tension.

I never thought this thread would have had such a following. It has gotten warmer today. I will try to get some pics today or tomorrow and add to the link on the first page.

 

[casey_wa]

The 15mm socket is attached to the center bolt on the front of the tensioner pulley. To release the tension you turn in a "clockwise" direction....not counter-clockwise....counter-clockwise will undo the bolt to remove the pulley.

To make access easier remove the apron that runs along underneath the radiator. Also removed the front passenger tire and the inner wheel well apron. Now you have easy access to the tensioner from underneath and from the passenger wheel well.

I used a 3/8 inch drive ratchet...because it was small enough to fit, allowed the handle to clear the passenger side longitudinal chassis and was big enough to turn the tensioner. The tension on the tensioner is not as much as you think.

Once you turn the tensioner to back off the tension the handle of the ratchet can have a 1/2 inch peice of copper pipe (about a foot or so long) slipped over the ratchet handle from the passenger wheel well and over the top of the longitudinal chassis member. The chassis will act as a stop to prevent the ratchet from rotating back the other way. Remember to make sure you have the belt on the side rearward side of the ratchet handle first...

Double and triple check your belt alignments before starting the engine...and check to make sure you have removed all tools from the engine compartment.

Hope this helps...

Casey

 

[NCG8R]

tm & casey,
Thanks. It's much clearer now. The vision in my head must be backwards but what else is new. Thanks for answering the "amount of tension" question I hadn't asked yet.

 

[kidsport]

Thanks to all that posted. I had to change my belt yesterday due to the fact that the upper idler pulley decided to fall apart after 150,000 miles.

In my case ('96 XLT 5.0l that is AWD, if it matters) the easy way to deal with the tensioner was to remove the airbox (round cylindrical version) and reach in from the side with a flex handle ratchet and 15mm shallow socket.

I was able to move the tensioner with my left hand and put the belt underneath the upper idler pulley in about 5 minutes. Add in the 5 minutes to route the belt around the circuit and it was a pretty easy fix.

I spent the previous day messing with it for half an hour before I thought to read this forum.

Not sure if there are many other '96s left out there but wanted to post my experience.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

i literally JUST finished replacing my belt. took me...maybe 5 minutes max?

this is what i did:
1. removed intake, just loosened screw on throttle body, and set to the side
2. Found the tensioner, figured out what size it took, used a ratchet for the clearance, loosened it, removed belt.
3. I removed it from the bottom of the car, from underneath
4. used the diagram under the hood, routed it right, brought tensioner back up to put belt under it. then i let go of the tensioner (smoothly), until it held the belt in place.
5. turned engine on, let it run for a second.

immeidiately, i noticed my voltage was PERFECT, couldn't get the gauge to lower at all now... from what i know the belt was chagned by the previous owner at least once... but idk about any other times, and the tensioner wasn't that tight.

 

[micorge]

Make sure to match the new belt length/size to the old one...

Dear God, thankfully the Discount Advanced Auto Zone had the right belt for our 1998 XLT 5.0L Ford Explorer. Unfortunately we didn't find that out until the 3rd trip back to the damn store. The first belt we bought was given to us from the store employee as it was listed in their computer system. I chose the one that appeared to be the best one because it had a 1 yr warranty which was a little more expensive, $26.98 a Dayco poly cog rib belt, 5060935. After getting the belt around all the pully's and struggling to squeeze it under the idle pully, I determined it was not the right size. It was about an inch too short. So bringing it back to the store, the staff/cashiers compared the two, old and new and said that it was the same size and that I'm probably just not cranking the tensioner pully, like it was my fault. After showing them that it was nearly an inch too short they got me the next size up which was another Dayco belt (thought it was better quality) and now the right size 5060940 which seemed to match the old numbers/size 940. So returning back home to think this one was definately going to fit only to find out that it was about 1/2 an inch too short after getting it on all the pully's for the second time. Fun stuff especially with the recent cold spell we have here 40's - 50's. So returning back to the store we decided to go with the more OEM belt which matched the old one better, belt poly rib 940K6. This one was not only cheaper but it actually fit. Took less then 5-minutes to install along with the rental tool, serpentine belt kit for a $30 deposit.

This was definately a tight space to work in but didn't have to remove anything like the fan or air box. Just the wrong belts given to us from the damn clerks at Advanced Auto Parts.

Always match up the old belt before you leave the store, it will save you multiple trips.

 

[linkysys]

how to change belt on 03 Explorer 4.0l 6cyl (XLS)

I just did this and thought I'd share what I learned. I tried following instructions in this post that said to rotate the bolt clockwise and this did not work for my model (03). I suggest the below instructions will work for 02-05 4.0l, but YMMV. This is a 10 minute job.

1) Remove air filter box in order to provide access to belt tensioner. Disconnect airflow sensor (push top plastic pin and unplug). Loosen hose clamp and detach air hose. Remove air box by pulling up firmly and rocking back and forth.

2) Locate belt tensioner (silver pulley nearest your air filter box). On the radiator side of the tensioner pulley, you will see one exposed mounting bolt. Unlike earlier models, this is not the tension release. Look lower on the pulley and you will see a 3/8" square hole. Take a 3/8" ratchet and insert it in the square hole. (If you have a flex handle ratchet, this will provide better clearance with the fan shrowd.) At this point, you may need to temporarily lift the small cooling reservoir hose out of the way. Rotate your ratchet counter-clockwise to release belt tension with one hand. Remove the belt with the other hand.

3) Follow the diagram sticker on the fan shrowd. Insert the new belt on the lower pulleys first. Pull it over all pulleys except the top left pulley, just above the tensioner. With one hand, rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise as before to release tension. With the other hand, pull the belt over the last pulley, just above the tensioner (top left). Release tension on the ratchet. Check belt alignment on all of the pulleys. Make sure that it is properly aligned in all of the slots. At this point, you can release tension and tweak the belt alignment so that it is perfectly seated on all of the pulleys.

4) Remove ratchet and tools. Double-check belt alignment. Start the car and listen for squeaks or rattles that might indicate a problem.

5) Throw your old belt in the trunk along with a spare 3/8" ratchet for use in emergencies.

Waive to the Stealership as you drive to your destination.

P.S. I replaced the belt with a Goodyear Gatorback (1yr warranty). I ordered online at Schucks (partsamerica.com), applied a coupon code for 15% discount, and had it delivered for free to my local store. Saved the hassle of waiting in line and a few bucks on the discount code.

 

[foundry rat]

serpentine belt replacement

The ac pulley locked up and broke my serpentine belt on my 94 explorer. can I bypass it with a shorter belt? The ac hasn't worked in years anyway.

 

[Papa]

If you are just removing the idler pulley / bearing, you need to loosen the bolt at the center of the pulley. if you are removing the entire tensioner assy, there are 2 or 3 bolts that hold it to the alumium alternator bracket.

FEAD Picture

As you can see in the picture, there is one gold bolt above the pulley, there is one behind it (once tension is released, you will see it. There may be one more behind my bracket, I can't remember.

As for removing the air box, it just lets you have access from the side - right at the tensioner.

The MSN Groups service has closed
As we first announced on October 23 2008, the MSN Groups service has closed.

 

[ranger7ltr]

FEAD pics...

This is the FEAD of one of my V8's with the Explorer front end dress in a GEN 1 Ranger body...The last pic shows the clearance between the fan and the tensioner to operate it from the passenger side top of the engine bay...

 

[Art Wallsi]

I have a 97 exploror with 100,000 miles and have no way in knowing if the belt has been changed so question is what milage should it be changed.

Thanks ---Art