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shocks for lowered tracs

Joined
January 13, 2013
Messages
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City, State
south, mississippi
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 explorer sport trac
any suggestions on shocks for a lowered sport trac??
 



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3/2.5 drop on standard length SensaTrac's installed 4/9/09 without issues. Great comfort, although may be too soft for aggressive driving styles. Removed the front bump stops and have yet to bottom out, front or rear. Ditto above, the rear shock mounting points remain the same using lowering blocks, the axle just moves up. How much are you lowering?
 






Forgot to mention that much of my ride comfort comes from stock profile 235/70-16 Michelin
Latitude Tour street tires. Sacrificed appearance for comfort by having lots of sidewall.
 






fronts? rear shouldnt matter if it mounts like a explorer. you can look at EE's kits, but we dont know what you are willing to spend

http://www.explorerexpress.com/-c-24_54.html

3/2.5 drop on standard length SensaTrac's installed 4/9/09 without issues. Great comfort, although may be too soft for aggressive driving styles. Removed the front bump stops and have yet to bottom out, front or rear. Ditto above, the rear shock mounting points remain the same using lowering blocks, the axle just moves up. How much are you lowering?

Isn't the rear still the same solid axle as a Gen2 Explorer? If so, then lowering, with spacer blocks, bringing the rear closer to the body, should actually have shorter shocks. If the lower shock mount is still on the axle tube, then lowering it with "standard" shocks, causes your shocks to already be 2-3" inches compressed, from where they are meant to be, at normal ride height. You are giving up that much compression travel, reducing the suspension's ability to absorb bumps. Besides the possibility of "bottoming" the shock, if the shock is designed with any sort of variable valving (like a sensa-trac) you will causing a change in the shocks function, since you will be operating in a different range of its travel, then originally designed.

The best bet is to buy a shock that has the same compression and extension travel as stock, but with an overall length shorter then stock, by the amount you lowered the truck.
 






Isn't the rear still the same solid axle as a Gen2 Explorer? If so, then lowering, with spacer blocks, bringing the rear closer to the body, should actually have shorter shocks. If the lower shock mount is still on the axle tube, then lowering it with "standard" shocks, causes your shocks to already be 2-3" inches compressed, from where they are meant to be, at normal ride height. You are giving up that much compression travel, reducing the suspension's ability to absorb bumps. Besides the possibility of "bottoming" the shock, if the shock is designed with any sort of variable valving (like a sensa-trac) you will causing a change in the shocks function, since you will be operating in a different range of its travel, then originally designed.

The best bet is to buy a shock that has the same compression and extension travel as stock, but with an overall length shorter then stock, by the amount you lowered the truck.

If you lower the rear with blocks then the only thing that moves is the axle tube.the leafs and shock mount stay in the same spot.the shock mounts are not on the tube, they are part of the leaf plate..many company's dont offer ordering by measurement so he would have to search all the models that come close to the measurement he needs.


OP..I run Nittro Slammers on my ranger.I like them but they are a aggressive sport shock made specifically for lowered vehicles. May be much for a sport trac, idk
 






If you lower the rear with blocks then the only thing that moves is the axle tube.the leafs and shock mount stay in the same spot.the shock mounts are not on the tube, they are part of the leaf plate..many company's dont offer ordering by measurement so he would have to search all the models that come close to the measurement he needs.


OP..I run Nittro Slammers on my ranger.I like them but they are a aggressive sport shock made specifically for lowered vehicles. May be much for a sport trac, idk

Oh. That makes sense. I was thinking of my Ranger, where the lower shock mount is on the tube.
 






Oh. That makes sense. I was thinking of my Ranger, where the lower shock mount is on the tube.
yep ranger is different. .of course we are assuming he did lower with blocks.if he used new leafs or shackles its gonna be different.
 






Slightly off topic here. Anyone have an explanation why the sway bar end links and shock mount points are different from side-to-side? Drivers side upper end link mount is at least 1" LOWER than passengers. Any affect on the "Ranger lean"? :scratch:

RearCenterBright1.jpg
 












Drivers side upper end link mount is at least 1" higher than passengers.
Sorry, I meant LOWER. Also note the Addco 633 sway bar drivers side eyelet is bent down and lower.
 






Sorry, I meant LOWER.

Still same reason. .I dont fully understand how it works so that why I said ""its been said"" lol I asked this same thing when I was doing a sway bar swap on my ranger.come to find out I had the bar mounted upside down my my explorer.I didnt know they went it a certain way.the explorer and ranger have second gen axle and sway bar swaps.
 


















i want a firmer ride,, i've lowered the front 2'' with the torsion twist and blocks in back at 4'' it looks really good ,, level too .. it's my daily driver.. im running 275-40-17's ..
 






i want a firmer ride,, i've lowered the front 2'' with the torsion twist and blocks in back at 4'' it looks really good ,, level too .. it's my daily driver.. im running 275-40-17's ..

Look into nitro Slammers then.this is who I use and alot of people over on RPS, he is a vendor over there.I just emailed his with my vehicle and drop amount and he sent me shocks.sure he can do same for you:salute:
http://shop.illusivefabrications.com/
 






O and lets see a picture;)
 






7_141910_zpsyzz2l3n_edit_1395296672105_zpshpktk3fi.jpg
 






sorry bout picture size,,
 



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Looks good
 






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