signs of front wheel bearing problem? | Ford Explorer Forums

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signs of front wheel bearing problem?

jrey09

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Joined
September 25, 2006
Messages
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City, State
San Luis Obispo, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 XLT 2WD
hi all,
i have a 02 xlt, 4x2 with 103K and occasionally get this low rumble from my driver front wheel. it's more like a low rattle and could only appreciate it at low speeds and when i hear it I sometimes feel the low vibration on the steering. by the way, i haven't noticed any play on my steering. I also get squeaks at low speed when i go over a speed bump, probably bushings. truck is sitting on stock rims, with bridgestone dueler revo's A/T 255/70/16. the truck runs well otherwise, use mobil syn for engine, new spark plugs and wires, new fuel filter, all new sensors (o2, pcv, egr) brakes and rotors are brand new, tranny and rear end replaced at 93k. the truck has been well cared for, no off-roading and i don't abuse it on the road.

the above symptoms are probably early presentation of a problem that i'm not sure what it is but would like to nip it at the bud before it causes real prob's and more money. I'm planning on keeping this truck until it needs to be buried, so I wouldn't mind replacing both front wheel bearing hub assymblies if it would help. Is this something that can be done by someone with basic tools and enough skills to change my own oil, brakes/rotors, etc...(basics)?

any insight would help. thanks.
 



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Lots of good info here and helpful folks with (unfortunately) lots of info on wheel bearings. Somewhere on this site is an excellent tech article with pictures that guided me through (although an earlier model, the idea is the same).

I replaced mine a few weeks ago (did both front ones - only want to do this once).

Symptoms: low growl coming from left front (the bad one), getting progressively louder over time, no squeaks (usually that is suspension bushings), and eventually bgetting into badly shuddering braking from high speed.

The dealer analysis missed this one 100%, saying I needed all new brakes (of course with 100% new parts); although the brakes had an estimated 10K left on them, I did them (all four corners) while the truck was out of service to save future effort (besides I had the front rotors off for the bearing job).

I had to buy one large socket I did not own, but other than that it was pretty straightforward. I am an amatuer wrench turner with some level of handiness and had no significant problems getting it done - about 2 hours for the first one, and about 1.5 hours for the last one (including the brake replacements).

The truck now drives like new.

Good Luck.
 






recently;y had a front bearing issue, although we don;t have the same year the concept is the same.


A very easy way to tell if something maybe wrong with your front bearings is to;
1.) Tighten all lug nuts, front and rear for safety
2.) Put a jack in a suitable location on the driver's side, shock perch works well
3.) Lift the truck so that the driver's side tire is about an inch off the ground
4.) Attempt to move the tire, both back and forth and up and down
5.) If there is ANY play, you should go and get your wheel bearing checked

Good luck man
 






things guys, the dealership near my house is asking for 178 each front assembly. is this a fair price? also, will i need to get new axle? nut.
 






not 100% on the newer font end assembelies, but i know i can get the bearing for mine for about $15, and the labor shouldn't be too much, but then again mine is 16 years old. As for a new axel, not unless you caused damage, which i doubt.

If you meant and axel bearing retainer nut, you may need a new one or possibly all you may have to do is tighten it. I had a similar issue and thats all I had to do.

One question too;
When you turn sharply, at a decent speed, do you hear a clunk?

Let me know
-Dan
 






I am not convinced that jacking the wheel and attempting to move it is a very good test of the bearings.

About 180 is what I paid for them as well. Some have gotten better on-line prices, but I wanted to see what I was buying for matching the old ones. The reason for the high cost is that these are, unlike old open bearings where you could replace the bearing races, are seaeld units. The assembly from Ford includes the sealed bearings installed in a cast iron housing, includes the ABS sensor and wiring harness, and the fasteners.

I did not replace, but re-used the large nut, although opinions vary on whether this is smart.
 






yea i wasnt sure how the new bearings looked, or the appropriate prices.


as for the check, i said that was an easy and quick check. I don't know if this is effective with a sealed bearing, but it is effective with a open type. And i have used it to do a quick "test" on whether gimble bearings were shot or not, they are generally sealed.

If you want to know for sure, the only way is to remove them and see...

Good luck again

-Dan
 






typo on my previous reply. i meant to say THANKS, not things.
anyhow, I don't hear or feel a clunk when turning in either direction.

i think that i will go with the jack up and move the wheel test. is there any other el cheapo way of testing. my symptoms are pretty mild, and i'd like to know for sure before I dump more cash.
i do believe in the model of if it isn't broke don't fix it for these type of parts; not so, on maintenance stuff.

-j
 






"the jack and shake" test is a quick and for the most part accurate way to test, if when you grab both sides of the tire and shake there is any play you should have it looked at, if there is no play then you are probably alright, but its not for certain.

another sign of a shot wheel bearing, or a wheel bearing on its way out is, when you driving you hear a clicking noise coming from the tire. An easy way to see is to drive normally next to a wall or other object that will help to bounce back the sound into the driver's compartment, just put down your window and see if you hear a clicking. If you do, you should see if there are any stones in your tires, as they will also cause a clicking, and then try it again. If you hear clicking you should have it looked at.



Hope this helps a little, and if you don't think it a problem, don't worry about it.

-Dan
 






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