So... where to start?

[JTH1972]

Yesterday I picked up my 94 XLT. For the most part, everything is running good and seems to be working. Only known problems is the AC isn't working (no pressure), no cruise control (no biggie), it could definitely use a coolant flush (looks dirty), and the brake fluid should be flushed too (also looks dirty).

It's pretty much stock at the moment. I do plan on doing a few mods down the road to increase performance and fuel economy, but I figure I'd start simple and make sure everything is running as it should as stock.

I do plan on switching the fluids over to synthetic, and probably replacing the O2 sensors since the vehicle has 220K km (137,500 miles). Going to seafoam the engine too.

Other suggestions on where to start?

 

[Joe Dirt]

I wouldn't replace the O2's unless they're testing bad. Toss the money to parts that are definitely worn/needed.

Check the front end, and see if any of those parts have been replaced. Good on the fluids, then front end, suspension, seafoam/plugs (wires while you're in there) then go from there.

 

[JTH1972]

What's the best way to test the O2 sensors then? I've just seen other people on the forum recommend replacing them after a certain mileage anyway.

Shocks are definitely on the list. Front end is a little spongey, and rear feels good, but I noticed the old shocks have chunks rusted off parts of it.

plugs/wires are on the "eventual" list as I'm looking at the merrits of something like the screamin demon coils, and if I get one I'll replace the whole works in one shot.

Also, what's the best way to clean the MAF sensor?

 

[92exp4x4]

It is easy to test them if you have a scanner, and a little harder with a voltmeter. A good O2 sensor will ocsillate between .2 volts and .9 volts while the engine is hot and running at idle. You can disconnect it to test because the sensor creates its own voltage, but in doing so you will disable the heating element in the sensor and it will not work properly. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

When I get a new-to-me vehicle. I first pressure wash the hell out of it. I then change all fluids (brakes, tranny, t-case, axles, power steering, engine oil and filter, coolant and thermostat), check/replace brakes and wheel bearings, tune up (plugs, wires, PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter,), and check/replace all tires including the spare. Grease the cable real good too, replace it if it looks bad. They will break and its not fun when it does. I then lube/grease all pivot points, hinges, and zerk fitting I can find, then the battery and all lights are tested and repaired as needed. Lastly I drive the vehicle and check for codes.

The last Ex I did, I even pulled the radiator and cleaned the crap out of the fins and the inside. You would be amazed what can get stuck in them. Plus the more you take out of the engine bay, the cleaner you can get everything!! I average about 6-10 hours and around $400-$500 on my initial inspection and repairs to vehicles I acquire. That's doing it all myself. The next one will be a 97 Powerstroke F250 I just got, 14 quarts of oil

 

[Joe Dirt]

I was thinking more along the lines of just pulling your codes to see if the O2's are throwing a trouble code, and if your mileage is horrible (like under 10mpg)

You can check them similar to the link in my signature.

I'd bet cash that all 4 shocks are shot, the push-test doesn't really work on the Ex. If they're rusty, they're probably done. Shocks are easy, you can get some nice Monroe Reflex shocks for under $140 out the door shipped to you from Rock Auto. I have them on my truck, and love them. I had Sensa-Trac's on my last Ex, and these are much better on an SUV.

The MAF sensor can be cleaned easily, get some electrical contact cleaner spray (in the auto chemical aisle at Wal Mart) and pop the air filter housing, the MAF housing so you can see it, and just spray the filament down. Let it dry good, and reinstall. Simple process.

AFA coils, I raced Mustangs for years, and honestly- the Ford ignition is very good. Plenty of voltage and spark to power the vehicle, let alone a hopped Stang. You can spend the $ if you like, because it's your truck, but the stock internals are very good already. Toss in some Motorcraft plugs (or Autolite if you like) NOT Bosch... and some Motorcraft wires, and you'll be motoring complaint free with regards to your ignition system for a long time.

On a lighter note- 5,000 posts! Woo hoo!

 

[JTH1972]

I'd bet cash that all 4 shocks are shot, the push-test doesn't really work on the Ex. If they're rusty, they're probably done. Shocks are easy, you can get some nice Monroe Reflex shocks for under $140 out the door shipped to you from Rock Auto. I have them on my truck, and love them. I had Sensa-Trac's on my last Ex, and these are much better on an SUV.

Like I said, the front is pretty soft and the body really feels like it's rolling when I go over bumps in the road.

I priced out shocks locally and the cheapest I found the sensi-tracks for was $65 each (welcome to Canada!), there was a Monroe "Response" shock for $35 but it's a lower quality. Since I frequent dirts roads in my travels and plan on hauling a small camping trailer, I'm wondering if I should fork out the money for the sensi-tracks. Rock Auto has good prices, but I don't know how bad I'll get dinged for shipping up to Canada.

On another note, my ABS light came on while driving home on the highway tonight, and is staying on. First place to look?

The MAF sensor can be cleaned easily, get some electrical contact cleaner spray (in the auto chemical aisle at Wal Mart) and pop the air filter housing, the MAF housing so you can see it, and just spray the filament down. Let it dry good, and reinstall. Simple process.

Is that where I'll need the security torx to remove the sensor?

Toss in some Motorcraft plugs (or Autolite if you like) NOT Bosch... and some Motorcraft wires, and you'll be motoring complaint free with regards to your ignition system for a long time.

What about NGK?

I'm guessing the more expensive platnium and irridium plugs in other brands aren't worth it?

 

[92exp4x4]

The "High end" plugs will give you nothing but problems. A Ford mechanic told me they are too hot a plug for these engines. They can cause pinging, which my truck was doing. I put the factory plugs back in and in ran great, better in fact.

If you are going to do alot of hauling with your truck I would go with the sence-a-trac shocks. They are really good quality and I think they used to have a lifetime gaurentee. They have a fairly stiff ride, but will handle the abuse of dirt roads. They were a perfect match to the 33s on my 92.

Your ABS problem is most likely in the front sensors. See if the harness has pulled apart or broken. Unfortunatly, you have to have an expensive scanner to hook to ABS computers. The cheapies I have found won't do it. You may have to get it diagnosed at Ford.

 

[JTH1972]

The "High end" plugs will give you nothing but problems. A Ford mechanic told me they are too hot a plug for these engines. They can cause pinging, which my truck was doing. I put the factory plugs back in and in ran great, better in fact.

OK, good to know, thanks.

If you are going to do alot of hauling with your truck I would go with the sence-a-trac shocks. They are really good quality and I think they used to have a lifetime gaurentee. They have a fairly stiff ride, but will handle the abuse of dirt roads. They were a perfect match to the 33s on my 92.

I'm not planning on running anything besides the 235's that are on it now. I wasn't planning a LOT of hauling (or so i think... wife may have other ideas!) but it may be better to have something good instead of cheaping out (my usual prefered route!) and paying for it later.

If anyone has dealt with a parts company that has decent shipping to Canada, please let me know.

Your ABS problem is most likely in the front sensors. See if the harness has pulled apart or broken. Unfortunatly, you have to have an expensive scanner to hook to ABS computers. The cheapies I have found won't do it. You may have to get it diagnosed at Ford.

I'm going to finally get off my butt and pull some of the codes today and see if anything comes up. I got to do it anyway, so...

 

[92exp4x4]

Yeah if there is any thing I have learned over the last few years, its spend the money up front and be happy. Going cheap usually has you going back to get the more expensive stuff 6 months later.

Biggest example is using Motorcraft parts. I'm tired of the cheap parts counter replacments failing soon after replacment.

 

[JTH1972]

Biggest example is using Motorcraft parts. I'm tired of the cheap parts counter replacments failing soon after replacment.

Funny, my past experience has always been to never trust OEM.

 

[JTH1972]

ABS light is gone now, but if I get a chance, is it advisable to pull the sensors and clean them? I got new brake fluid to flush the lines. The old stuff looks just that... old!

 

[pteepee69]

I bought my '94 earlier this year and even with all its problems it has been a good truck. A few more parts and it will almost be a brand new truck. My abs light has come on and gone off I don't know how many times. Really didn't pay much attention to it until my brake pedal started going to the floor. It would do this randomly. Last week on the way home from work they went for good. When pushing the brake pedal, I was getting a lot of blowing around the power booster shaft coming through the firewall. Replaced it, still no brakes, replaced the master cylinder, now I have brakes like I've never had since owning this ride. Trouble is the light is still coming on.

 

[CraigRK]

I recently bought a 94 Exp as well. I ran the plugs that were in it for 1700 miles just to baseline the gas mileage. I wish I'd changed them sooner, as they turned out to be badly worn, and with the new plugs I noticed an immediate end to the "rattling" (pre-ignition), and a noticeably stronger low and midrange. I haven't done a second fuel top-up, so can't report on mileage yet.

I put in Autolite double platinum plugs, but from now on, I'm going to use the "high end" Iridium plugs in all my vehicles. (They aren't that expensive anymore ~$6 each.) With 120,000 miles on my girlfriend's Honda CR-V, I finally decided to change the plugs. The NGK Iridiums that came out looked like they had 100 miles on them. I was impressed.

I think sparkplug technology has advanced a great deal in the last 16 years, especially with respect to use of exotic materials, and plugs using these new materials are better, and last MUCH longer. Just my opinion.

CraigK

 

[safn1949]

I have plain old NGK's and motorcraft wires in my 94 along with a fairly quiet turbo muffler and a KKM intake.It made a major difference in the way the truck runs doing the muffler and intake filter.

A lot of guys on here will argue that it won't help but it did and I'm no pilgrim.I was a GM tech for many years so there you go.

 

[JTH1972]

I recently bought a 94 Exp as well. I ran the plugs that were in it for 1700 miles just to baseline the gas mileage. I wish I'd changed them sooner, as they turned out to be badly worn, and with the new plugs I noticed an immediate end to the "rattling" (pre-ignition), and a noticeably stronger low and midrange. I haven't done a second fuel top-up, so can't report on mileage yet.

My plugs are fairly new (NGK V-Groove) and I still get a lot of the "rattling". I don't mind spending the money on new plugs to get it to work right, I just have how much of a PITA it is to change the plugs on this vehicle!

It's such a cluster of problems on this vehicle lately that i don't know what to check or re-check to eliminate problems.

I got a code reader coming to hopefully help figure out other possible issues. i get nothing with KOEO, and haven't figured out how exactly to do the KOER tests.

I'd like to get my 17mpg back without breaking the bank in the process, and before fuel prices get much higher. It's already $1.16 a litre here!

 

[apollo607]

I just install on my v6 xlt 98 the kkm intake and I love it. After owning my rig for 3 years, It runs better than ever.

 

[JTH1972]

I'd like to do that, but I first want to get it running back to what it was stock before doing any modifications.

 

[CraigRK]

JTH

Have you done the Seafoam treatment yet?
Before I changed plugs, I did a Seafoam treatment (direct into intake method) and it reduced rattling significantly. I guess this indicates a high level of carbon buildup. I'm not sure if there is a better way than Seafoam to reduce this.

I'm embarrassed to say, I also didn't change the air filter until this weekend, and holding the old one up to a bright afternoon sun, I couldn't see daylight through it. Ouch! Try changing the air filter if you haven't already.

CraigK

 

[llamaking122]

but seafoam BEFORE new plugs because they can foul up with carbon

 

[JTH1972]

I've Seafoamed the vehicle twice during the summer and changed the plugs afterwards. The plugs are maybe six months old. As for changing, I'm tempted but I haven't got a straight answer as to what plugs are the best. Some say autolite and motorcraft only, others say the irridium are fine when others say don't use them. So what's the general consensus?

Changed the air filter recently. Was new this summer, but it does get dusty around here. Overall it didn't look bad, but cheap insurance to replace it anyway.

Was going to use the propane trick to check for vacuum leaks, as long as there's no wind out.