compdoc777
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- April 5, 2004
- Messages
- 159
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Cypress, TX
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 95 EB, 98 EB, 01 Exped EB
SOHC sensor replacement for $15 bucks.
If it is leaking around the sensor or you can't remove the sensor... read on..
1. If leaking bad o-ring on that sensor may be causing it.
2. Sensor may be bad like mine. I think a rodent killed mine chewed the wires to the sensor and they crossed and fried the sensor. I don't get any Ohms when I put it on a meter and if I plug in the fixed wiring. It goes straight to hot. So I figured the sensor is bad. The other sensor I get an ohm reading.
What I did was to take out the Temp Coolant housing out of the car.
Then I used a rubber mallet to hammer down the sensor that is hard to remove. It is a brass hex nut with a rubber O-ring that fits into the hole. The nut below has one plastic bar blocking the nut from dropping down.
If you have twisted this piece already then not to much to worry about. Put the housing on a soft surface and pound that sensor down into the hole. My sensor was bad so I was not worried about damaging it. I did not however damage it. Pound it down until the big hex nut and sensor almost reach the bottom. Should be three or four good wacks depending on your mallet.
You can remove the other sensor if you are afraid you will damage it. Before hitting the temp sensor in question.
Then with a pair of pliers remove the nut and sensor from the bottom of the housing.
Ok,
What I did was to take out the Temp Coolant housing out of the car.
Then I used a rubber mallet to hammer down the sensor that is hard to remove. It is a brass hex nut with a rubber O-ring that fits into the hole. The nut below has one plastic bar blocking the nut from dropping down.
If you have twisted this piece already then not to much to worry about. Put the housing on a soft surface and pound that sensor down into the hole. My sensor was bad so I was not worried about damaging it. I did not however damage it. Pound it down until the big hex nut and sensor almost reach the bottom. Should be three or four good wacks depending on your mallet.
You can remove the other sensor if you are afraid you will damage it. Before hitting the temp sensor in question.
Then with a pair of pliers remove the nut and sensor from the bottom of the housing.
Once you remove the sensor you can clean up the brass fitting with a wire brush. Remove the O-ring and find a new one to replace it. I found one in an old A/C repair set that matched. If you don't have on go to Sears hardware they probably have one for .50 cents or less.
Once it is all cleaned up then remove the sensor from the brass fitting. I used a 19mm deep socket and a vice grip to break it loose. It's not rusted in or anything looks like it, but it's not just in so tight it can't be removed and I would be willing to bet that the Ford made it that way so when you try to remove it you can't so you give up and buy a new $$$$ part.
Clean up the fitting as shown above with a wire brush change the o-ring.
Then clean up the housing. I used a carb cleaner and a rag to clean out the goo and WD40 I had sprayed on the housing when I actually thought I might be able to get it out the easy way... NOT.
Once it is all clean get your Epoxy setup. I used a plastic epoxy that sets up in 15 min so you have some time to work with it. I spread the epoxy goo around the hole around the hex nut only. The hole with that the O-rings goes into will not need that. In fact that is the seal the o-ring not anything else. This epoxy is just going to be used to hold that blasted hex nut so you can tighten the sensor.
Once you put the goo around the hex hole work only the brass fitting back into the hole it will go pretty easly I used a 3/4 in long extension to hold the brass fitting straight as I pushed it back in. Then I used the bigger end of the extension to tap the brass fitting into place. Now there is a trick here once you get it close then take your old sensor and twist it in a few turns then use it to pull the brass fitting into place.
Mine came up an fit back in hole perfectly. I was able to twist it to align it with the original holes. Then I took more of the epoxy goo and spread it into the gaps left by my first twists. When the epoxy dries it should be rock hard so and allow me to put resonable tension on the sensor.
You can see the epoxy around the cleaned brass fitting. Don't worry about the epoxy being used to seal the housing the O-ring should handle that. This will help but it does not have to be perfect only strong enough to hold a few pounds of pressure to tighten the sensor.
This is where I used the old sensor to pull up the brass fitting to the bore.
Once you have that done allow the epoxy to dry and viola you have a fixed coolant water housing for $15 bucks!
You'll see two new sensors in mine, I bought both because the guy at the counter refused to believe that the secondary sensor was a coolant sensor.
I'll be taking the small one back what is funny is the one that is bad is only $10. The good one is $16 so makes for a cheap fix.
My dealer wanted $310 for the housing and online I found it for $143.00 + shipping.
So you can see the savings in this mod. Took me about 20 minutes to do this fix with the housing out of the truck already. That included taking pictures and a snack.
I you need any more information just send me an email @ compdoc777@yahoo.com
If it is leaking around the sensor or you can't remove the sensor... read on..
1. If leaking bad o-ring on that sensor may be causing it.
2. Sensor may be bad like mine. I think a rodent killed mine chewed the wires to the sensor and they crossed and fried the sensor. I don't get any Ohms when I put it on a meter and if I plug in the fixed wiring. It goes straight to hot. So I figured the sensor is bad. The other sensor I get an ohm reading.
What I did was to take out the Temp Coolant housing out of the car.
Then I used a rubber mallet to hammer down the sensor that is hard to remove. It is a brass hex nut with a rubber O-ring that fits into the hole. The nut below has one plastic bar blocking the nut from dropping down.
If you have twisted this piece already then not to much to worry about. Put the housing on a soft surface and pound that sensor down into the hole. My sensor was bad so I was not worried about damaging it. I did not however damage it. Pound it down until the big hex nut and sensor almost reach the bottom. Should be three or four good wacks depending on your mallet.
You can remove the other sensor if you are afraid you will damage it. Before hitting the temp sensor in question.
Then with a pair of pliers remove the nut and sensor from the bottom of the housing.
Ok,
What I did was to take out the Temp Coolant housing out of the car.
Then I used a rubber mallet to hammer down the sensor that is hard to remove. It is a brass hex nut with a rubber O-ring that fits into the hole. The nut below has one plastic bar blocking the nut from dropping down.
If you have twisted this piece already then not to much to worry about. Put the housing on a soft surface and pound that sensor down into the hole. My sensor was bad so I was not worried about damaging it. I did not however damage it. Pound it down until the big hex nut and sensor almost reach the bottom. Should be three or four good wacks depending on your mallet.
You can remove the other sensor if you are afraid you will damage it. Before hitting the temp sensor in question.
Then with a pair of pliers remove the nut and sensor from the bottom of the housing.
Once you remove the sensor you can clean up the brass fitting with a wire brush. Remove the O-ring and find a new one to replace it. I found one in an old A/C repair set that matched. If you don't have on go to Sears hardware they probably have one for .50 cents or less.
Once it is all cleaned up then remove the sensor from the brass fitting. I used a 19mm deep socket and a vice grip to break it loose. It's not rusted in or anything looks like it, but it's not just in so tight it can't be removed and I would be willing to bet that the Ford made it that way so when you try to remove it you can't so you give up and buy a new $$$$ part.
Clean up the fitting as shown above with a wire brush change the o-ring.
Then clean up the housing. I used a carb cleaner and a rag to clean out the goo and WD40 I had sprayed on the housing when I actually thought I might be able to get it out the easy way... NOT.
Once it is all clean get your Epoxy setup. I used a plastic epoxy that sets up in 15 min so you have some time to work with it. I spread the epoxy goo around the hole around the hex nut only. The hole with that the O-rings goes into will not need that. In fact that is the seal the o-ring not anything else. This epoxy is just going to be used to hold that blasted hex nut so you can tighten the sensor.
Once you put the goo around the hex hole work only the brass fitting back into the hole it will go pretty easly I used a 3/4 in long extension to hold the brass fitting straight as I pushed it back in. Then I used the bigger end of the extension to tap the brass fitting into place. Now there is a trick here once you get it close then take your old sensor and twist it in a few turns then use it to pull the brass fitting into place.
Mine came up an fit back in hole perfectly. I was able to twist it to align it with the original holes. Then I took more of the epoxy goo and spread it into the gaps left by my first twists. When the epoxy dries it should be rock hard so and allow me to put resonable tension on the sensor.
You can see the epoxy around the cleaned brass fitting. Don't worry about the epoxy being used to seal the housing the O-ring should handle that. This will help but it does not have to be perfect only strong enough to hold a few pounds of pressure to tighten the sensor.
This is where I used the old sensor to pull up the brass fitting to the bore.
Once you have that done allow the epoxy to dry and viola you have a fixed coolant water housing for $15 bucks!
You'll see two new sensors in mine, I bought both because the guy at the counter refused to believe that the secondary sensor was a coolant sensor.
I'll be taking the small one back what is funny is the one that is bad is only $10. The good one is $16 so makes for a cheap fix.
My dealer wanted $310 for the housing and online I found it for $143.00 + shipping.
So you can see the savings in this mod. Took me about 20 minutes to do this fix with the housing out of the truck already. That included taking pictures and a snack.
I you need any more information just send me an email @ compdoc777@yahoo.com
