Some brake job questions...

[Recoil Rob]

A little history first, I bought my 2002 new in Aug 2002 but having 2 other trucks did not have much use for it at the time. It sat for a while in a friends garage and the rotors rusted a bit and the rear pads have been on life support for a while. I knew the rotors were shot so I used it while my other truck was getting fixed, actually got down to metal on metal!

Tonight was the night, pulled the wheels, calipers and pads, no problem. Used the Clamp to compress the pistons and let the old fluid go out the bleeder instead of back up to the MC reservoir, will be flushing the entire system as soon as I am done.

Ah, the rotors! Since the truck only has 23K and I don't drive with the E brake on I didn't think the E brake pads would be a problem. I ripped off those two nut/clips on each hub and I started tapping the rotor fro the rear with a plastic coated mallet. Useless. Came inside to the computer and did a search here for rotor removal.

You guys are good. You, you're very good....

After reading through, I went with this procedure...

1. Go to the drivers side, push the Ebrake cable and slip the 5/32" drill bit into the hole on the foot pedal
2. Sprayed the where the studs and hub meet the rotor.
3. Took SyberTigers advice and use a 1# sledge to tap around the outer perimeter of the disc. Just hard enough to bounce back, not dent, then move. Did this for about 3 revolutions.
4. Took one pound sledge and hit back of rotor where caliper was with some meaning. Spin 45˚ and do again. Took about 4 -5 shots and she popped off.

My E Brake pads have about 1/8" left on them, can I leave them or should I replace them while everything is open, hardware included. I have no idea how thick they start out at.

My Chiltons doesn't give lube points for the shims and other parts but i assume they should be done? I have CRC brake lube.

After a check on the fronts and everything is back together I have a Motive pressure bleed system ready to go. Does the EBrake cable need grease?

Also, any recommendations as to aftermarket rotors and pads?



thanks,

Rob

 

[Wills05xlt4x4]

I'm about to do my brakes, I have brembo pads(rockauto) brembo rotors(bap-geon) and duralast(only available) ebrake shoes and hardware... They seem to be really nice...
Imho I'd do the ebrake while its open... I am and the $11 for hardware was worth it too....

 

[zerodevil]

I am going with EBC slotted and dimpled rotors on the rear and baer drilled and slotted on the front. Yellow-stuff pads on all four corners. I went with raybestos parking brake shoes and motorcraft hardware kits. Deffinately do them while your opened up man, that 70 bucks now will save you such a head-ache later.

 

[Recoil Rob]

Where are you guys getting your parts from, especially the e brake "hardware kits"?

 

[zerodevil]

i got the hardware kits from my ford dealership. And i got all of my parts from autopartsdirect com. I have also had a lot of luck with summitracing.

 

[Recoil Rob]

Can't find autopartsdirect.com anywhere on the web. Tried Google, nothing, is that the correct address?

 

[Wills05xlt4x4]

Any auto parts store has them on hand $11......

 

[Exproblems]

My E Brake pads have about 1/8" left on them, can I leave them or should I replace them while everything is open, hardware included. I have no idea how thick they start out at.

My Chiltons doesn't give lube points for the shims and other parts but i assume they should be done? I have CRC brake lube.

After a check on the fronts and everything is back together I have a Motive pressure bleed system ready to go. Does the EBrake cable need grease?

Also, any recommendations as to aftermarket rotors and pads?

Rob

The E-Brake shoes don't have very much pad on them even at new. Nothing like the thickness of a regular caliper brake pad. They aren't used for braking or hardly ever used, so not much pad needed. They are for simply holding a vehicle in place or when parked on an incline. If you go to a parts store, have the counter clerk pull out a set of new E-brake shoes and look at their thickenss and compare them to yours. You'll see there isn't much pad thickness to the new ones. If you have an "Advance Auto Parts" store near you, you can save a good deal of money on your new brake parts there by using online coupon (codes) for Advance Auto Parts from www.couponcabin.com. They have various coupon amounts depending on how much money you spend on your "orders". The best one they have is $40 off coupon on an order of a $100 or more. You can break up your parts orders into several seperate orders and use the appropriate coupon for each order size $$$
BTW, Advance auto sells "Wearever" brand brake pads and rotors and they also carry "Wagner" pads and rotors. I've got Wagner Thermo Quiet(Ceramic) pads on the front(like them) and I use Wearever Gold pads on the rear(semi-metallic)(like them). Next set of pads and rotors I will be buying will be Wearever Platinum pads(they claim to be quietest on the market) and either Wearever or Wagner rotors. Wearever products are made in China, like most everything else is these days.