Spark plug removal and possible plug breakage

[ratterrier]

Hi folks,

OK, first I've got to 'fess up my negligence / ignorance. I had thought that my 1996 Explorer didn't need plugs changed until 100K miles. I've seen postings here where waiting that long is incorrect. So now I want to correct this mistake by changing out my plugs, but I've found some people have had a similar misconception and some broke their plugs while removing.

Interestingly, my latest issue of Popular Mechanics had a Car Clinic item about plugs marrying to the aluminum heads, but was regarding a 2006 F-150. Seems some newer Ford engines have problems with this (TSB 08-7-6), but not entirely sure the same thing happens with older trucks. I've done some research, and found that treating with WD-40 should help loosen up the threads, but I'm not sure if this is enough. Some of these plugs are so hard to get to, I can't imagine getting a broken plug out or repairing stripped threads without major expense.

I was wondering if there were any forum members that may have been in a similar situation, and had experience changing out original plugs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard

 

[Willard]

Soak them in PB Blaster a day or two before you start. That will help.

100k miles is awhile, but if I remember right that is what Ford says to do. Nevertheless it is a little to long however.

 

[Andy96XLT]

hey, you are practically right around the corner from me. I changed my plugs last spring and it only took about an hour once I figured out how to actually get to everything and I have the 4.0 OHV, the exact same as yours. I was really worried about breaking plugs too, but just take it slow. I can't remember If I used PB blaster but It is important to ratchet them out straight and with the right set of extensions. Good luck

 

[ratterrier]

Thanks guys !!

I'm not familiar with PB Blaster, but will definitely look into it. And yeah, I had remembered the 100K as being on the selling points Ford had.

Andrew...did you have 100k miles on your '96 XLT too?

I've also done some groundwork to figure out the best way to get to the plugs, especially on the passenger side. I've removed the rubber splash shield to get access to plug #3, and I've seen suggestions that if you take off some of the air box stuff you can get to plug #2 decently.

I've done all kinds of work on an earlier vehicle I used to have (85 Nissan 200SX), so I feel like I should be able to handle the plug change except for that possibility of plug breakage...that's what my real concern is. Even the boots seem to be stuck on pretty good, I don't have a plug wire puller but do have some long-neck needle-nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend at the tip that might be suitable.

Again..thanks. If anyone else with similar experience cares to weigh in , I'd appreciate it. I am procrastinating on this a little bit, and have found a decent shop where the guy will charge $114 to do the swap, but would rather do it myself...otherwise why be a member on this great site !!


Will keep you posted.

Richard

 

[marragtop]

Sounds like you got everything covered. Remember to put anti-seize on the new plugs for the next guy..... You should also replace the wires since they are original.

 

[Andy96XLT]

Thanks guys !!

I'm not familiar with PB Blaster, but will definitely look into it. And yeah, I had remembered the 100K as being on the selling points Ford had.

Andrew...did you have 100k miles on your '96 XLT too?

I've also done some groundwork to figure out the best way to get to the plugs, especially on the passenger side. I've removed the rubber splash shield to get access to plug #3, and I've seen suggestions that if you take off some of the air box stuff you can get to plug #2 decently.

I've done all kinds of work on an earlier vehicle I used to have (85 Nissan 200SX), so I feel like I should be able to handle the plug change except for that possibility of plug breakage...that's what my real concern is. Even the boots seem to be stuck on pretty good, I don't have a plug wire puller but do have some long-neck needle-nose pliers that have a 90 degree bend at the tip that might be suitable.

Again..thanks. If anyone else with similar experience cares to weigh in , I'd appreciate it. I am procrastinating on this a little bit, and have found a decent shop where the guy will charge $114 to do the swap, but would rather do it myself...otherwise why be a member on this great site !!


Will keep you posted.

Richard

When I changed my plugs my ex had about 150K miles on the clock. I just changed the plugs and wires because I had no idea when they were last changed since I bought the truck used, and its better to be safe.

Also, I would not bring the truck in to change the plugs. They really are not too bad. I didn't even go through the wheel wells, I did it straight from the top of the engine. If you really want to procrastinate and are worried I am on spring break and will be back in jersey in 2 weeks and I could help you out.

edit: also my wires were really stuck on there too. i did not use a boot puller, I was just careful, but still managed to scratch up my hands getting the wires off, but that was the worst of what happened that day ha.

 

[Willard]

IMO the OHV V6's are easy on these trucks. Once you figure out the best way to get to the plugs, they aren't difficult. I've had the boots get stuck some before, but I've never used a boot puller, just grab on and pull. Yea, I've banged up my hands some doing that, but I don't care, my hands never heal as it is anyways.

After I figured out the best way to change the plugs, I could do it in half an hour. Very easy compared to many vehicles (ever changed the plugs on an Xterra?)

 

[ratterrier]

Thanks for the kind offer Andrew...I sure I'll be OK. My only real concern is the length of time these things have been in there (my bad!!), and the potential for plug breakage. Then it would time to give AAA a call for a tow, and megabucks for repair.

I've already picked up new wires previously...figured might as well be complete.

And speaking of megabucks for repairs, don't ever buy a VW. I've got a 2002 Passat that was just in the shop for timing belt and water pump, then was referred to a muffler shop to get the front flex pipe replaced...that was the dealer's opinion why I was getting a smell when using the heat. I still smelled something and then they told me it was a leak in a hose. Well, I was just in there for an oil change (yep..I used to do that myself, but the 1.8 turbo engines gunk up and the oil pump went $1300), so I have them do it for insurance. And now they say the smell is from the cam seals are leaking, and also my tie rods and links need replacing. What a lousy car to keep running.

Thanks again guys !!

Richard

 

[alohamonte]

VWs are the worst European car on the market... I believe they have the worst new car warranty on the market... 36 months 36,000 miles? Correct me if I'm wrong on that.

Your 10 year old Ex will run better than a VW half that age.

And on the plugs, my new-to-me X had original plugs until about... 125,000 miles (previous owner never changed them) with no idle/misfire problems.

 

[96eb96]

Hi folks,

OK, first I've got to 'fess up my negligence / ignorance. I had thought that my 1996 Explorer didn't need plugs changed until 100K miles. I've seen postings here where waiting that long is incorrect. So now I want to correct this mistake by changing out my plugs, but I've found some people have had a similar misconception and some broke their plugs while removing.

Interestingly, my latest issue of Popular Mechanics had a Car Clinic item about plugs marrying to the aluminum heads, but was regarding a 2006 F-150. Seems some newer Ford engines have problems with this (TSB 08-7-6), but not entirely sure the same thing happens with older trucks. I've done some research, and found that treating with WD-40 should help loosen up the threads, but I'm not sure if this is enough. Some of these plugs are so hard to get to, I can't imagine getting a broken plug out or repairing stripped threads without major expense.

I was wondering if there were any forum members that may have been in a similar situation, and had experience changing out original plugs. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard

Use moderate tapping/pulsing on the ratchet instead of brute strength if it feels stuck. Like others said, pb blaster in the am and then drive around to let it soak in. Also, as soon as the plug moves/breaks free, put some more pb and move on to the next plug. Give it a bit of time to penetrate. The 06 trucks have an entirely different issue, but some of the advice they give (like using penetrating oil) is good for any application.