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spark Plug removal

russexpy

Member
Joined
June 22, 2013
Messages
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Location
Denver Colorado
City, State
Aurora Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Explorer Limited
I have a 2007 Explorer with the 4.6L and I'm trying to get #4 and #8 plugs out. I changed the plugs in the other 6 and cannot get my socket to fit onto the plug. Now I get a P0358 code and I think the plug fouled out from the coil issue. I replaced the coil also there. There seems to be dirt in the plug chamber. I have scrapped but to no avail. Any recommendations?
 



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Those plug well should be blown with compressed air first. Especially now if debris has got down in which may be interfereing with your socket. If the top is broken a special tool is needed. There are treads on that and youtube videos linked in them. I am guessing you may have the two part plugs (original type). You might have to take it to an experience mechanic (who's worked in these before). You won't want it made worst than is is by someone never working on the Ford V8's
 






Those plug well should be blown with compressed air first. Especially now if debris has got down in which may be interfereing with your socket. If the top is broken a special tool is needed. There are treads on that and youtube videos linked in them. I am guessing you may have the two part plugs (original type). You might have to take it to an experience mechanic (who's worked in these before). You won't want it made worst than is is by someone never working on the Ford V8's

Those plug well should be blown with compressed air first. Especially now if debris has got down in which may be interfereing with your socket. If the top is broken a special tool is needed. There are treads on that and youtube videos linked in them. I am guessing you may have the two part plugs (original type). You might have to take it to an experience mechanic (who's worked in these before). You won't want it made worst than is is by someone never working on the Ford V8's
Thank you for your reply. I did blow them out and I did install the new updated plugs when they were replaced at 100,000 miles. After 4 years I thought it was time to replace them and I did it per the TSB on this. It looks like sediment has buildt up and covering the plugs in the socket part of the plug. Don't know how that happened, but I guess after 4 years anything is possible. Yes I may have to take it to the Ford dealer. I would think I'm not the only one who has run across this problem. Again thank you for your reply tripplec.
 






You may have a good truck shop in your area if you call or look around See if they've run into this before. Given that plug removal has been a noteworthy Ford issue on all V8 even 5.2L there should be someone who can handle it. Otherwise skip them and on to the next.
 






You may have a good truck shop in your area if you call or look around See if they've run into this before. Given that plug removal has been a noteworthy Ford issue on all V8 even 5.2L there should be someone who can handle it. Otherwise skip them and on to the next.

I agree with you. I did skip over them but I think #8 plug is dead and causing a miss. Got a code P0358 and replaced the coil but I think it killed the plug for this is causing the miss. Oh well, trying to do something good and turning into a cluster #@$%. Thanks for your recommendation. Will look for a good truck shop.
 






Sometimes its worth paying that hour of labour and not enduring a much bigger expense due to ensuing damage in trying to get it out without a proven method or tools.

I ran into a similar issue in attempting to do a rear bearing in my Sante Fe AWD which has a tone ring on the axle behind the bolt heads holding the bearing on. It was in the way of sockets and needed pushing the shaft to make room. I ended up brushing the tone ring notches while working the bolts out. I saw what was happening and called it quits. Put it back together and had a shop do it on their hoist. Had the ring been cracked or ruined ABS faults would have appeared and fixing that would have been a big expensive jobs since its on the axle shaft. A good 4 hours or more wasted but sometimes DIY just don't make sense.
 






If you replaced the plugs before, should be able to do it again. Can you see what the build-up is? #4 and #8 plugs wells are notorious for water seepage from the cowl seal. If you have corrosion on the plug hex, scrape the corrosion with a pic or small screw driver until the plug socket will fit. Hope you used anti-sieze as per the TSB.
 












If you can see the build-up, a small file should be able to remove it enough on the 6 flats/points to get the socket on. After you get the socket on successfully, remember to remove it, and blow out again, before trying to remove the plug.
 






If you can see the build-up, a small file should be able to remove it enough on the 6 flats/points to get the socket on. After you get the socket on successfully, remember to remove it, and blow out again, before trying to remove the plug.
Unless you dumped a pound of dirt in there :), you should get that socket on. I always use the extended one piece socket. Tap it with a hammer a little, it should get on the plugs.

Check OTC 6900
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6900-F-1...=UTF8&qid=1496597680&sr=1-1&keywords=otc+6900

But be careful, 4 and 8 are the worst and most prone to break.
I guess who ever changed the plugs before me may not have put anti seize on the plugs so #8 is frozen in the head. Was able to get 7 of the plugs out without breaking. Took to the dealer and the head is being taken off and have the plug removed. Bummer. At least I will be good till I trade it in in a few years. Thank you everybody for your comments and suggestions.
 






Dang it, exactly what happened to me. Got all 7 out, number 8 was like welded in the head. I still kept trying but eventually it broke but in the worst way possible. The thread and the electrode was left in there. I got the electrode out, and with a help of a friend mechanic we drilled the remaining piece out. At that point had that out but had a smooth hole in my head bigger than the spark plug. He came up with an idea of using a kit designed for 2 valve Tritons (Dorman Help 42025) and we screwed in that adapter in, cut the boot off from the coil, and it worked. I aged probably 10 years doing that.
How many hours are they charging for head removal ?
 






Dang it, exactly what happened to me. Got all 7 out, number 8 was like welded in the head. I still kept trying but eventually it broke but in the worst way possible. The thread and the electrode was left in there. I got the electrode out, and with a help of a friend mechanic we drilled the remaining piece out. At that point had that out but had a smooth hole in my head bigger than the spark plug. He came up with an idea of using a kit designed for 2 valve Tritons (Dorman Help 42025) and we screwed in that adapter in, cut the boot off from the coil, and it worked. I aged probably 10 years doing that.
How many hours are they charging for head removal ?
Well they did not have to pull the head. When the engine got to where the plug was accessible the dealer was able to remove #8 plug. Saved a bunch of money that way. Glad this dealer was looking out for me. Total to remove the old plug and install new one was $750. Could have been worse. Again I want to thank every one for their replies and comments.
 






Yeah, a key reason if buy a used one to look for a newer year (2008 - 2009) unless its known to have been changed already at least. Well you are not likely to need to change the plugs again anyway.
 






....and that plug made the history as the most expensive single plug replacement in Ford's history :)
Actually, it did not, you were lucky like you said that they did it somehow, not sure how ...
But I heard horror stories where the plug replacement on those 3 valves (4.6 and 5.4, and 6.8) ended up as $ 3,000 plus jobs at the dealreships in mid 2000's.
Now, there is more knowledge and techniques to do it.
 






Oh wow, thats scary...
 






Dang it, exactly what happened to me. Got all 7 out, number 8 was like welded in the head. I still kept trying but eventually it broke but in the worst way possible. The thread and the electrode was left in there. I got the electrode out, and with a help of a friend mechanic we drilled the remaining piece out. At that point had that out but had a smooth hole in my head bigger than the spark plug. He came up with an idea of using a kit designed for 2 valve Tritons (Dorman Help 42025) and we screwed in that adapter in, cut the boot off from the coil, and it worked. I aged probably 10 years doing that.
How many hours are they charging for head removal ?

How in the world did you get the porcelain and electrode out? Exact thing happened to me a few weeks ago. #8 is rusted on and snapped in half. I have tried every chisel, punch, etc, to try to break the porcelain and nothing works.

I was quoted 22 hours to get the engine out and head off. Drilling out the head by a machine shop would obviously be extra, so may as well replace the head at that rate.
 












I used part of the Leslie tool. I do not remember exactly how it worked, but somehow I got the "bolt" to catch the electrode and I pulled it out with the p[porcelain. Then I drilled the rest.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/my-sparkplugs-saga-and-solution-different-from-many-other-cases-–-long-post.314791/#post-2714936t

I just realized that this is an 06-10 forum which have the 3V engine. Mine is an 05 with 2V, so the tool is of no use to me. So it's pulling the engine and head for me!
 






You can re post on the correct forum. But also check with either Ford dealer and or a Ford experience mechanical shop. They have a solution for the 3V and not reason a solution hasn't been figured out by others as well.

Seized plugs in ford blocks in not a new thing and one reason we had our 02 Explorer Sport done by a mechanic just in case last year.
 



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