Stalling at low rpm

[flyguy]

Hey ya... this is sort of a repeat problem... but my explorer has stalled out a few times at low idle...like when Im backing out around in a parking lot or what not... Also... my check engine light will come on when I coast by letting off the gas... like if I go up a hill... pushing the truck pretty hard... then just let go of the gas... the light will come on... I think I checked the code correctly and it said the EGR valve was not opening... so I replaced the EGR valve... still getting the light though. My mechanic didnt see anything wrong... but he fixed some other stuff and will look again... do you guys have any ideas?! Oh yeah..I got new tires! BFG KO's! Woo hoo!

nick

 

[kps36]

As for the EGR code, this is what I posted a week ago to someone else who had an 'EGR code'
Check the EGR 'regulator.
The EGR regulater is also called by other names 'vacuum solenoid' but 'pressure regulator' is what Ford calls it. It is NOT the EGR pump proper, (the UFO shaped disk with a 5'8" tube coming into the bottom and a 1/8" vacuum line into the top. The EGR P.R. is a 'plate' about 5x2" ith 2 vacuum tubes (1/4" coming out of the bottom into the Vacuum Tube(aforementioned 5/8" that runs from the exhaust manifold to the EGR pump. The PR also has an electrical plug in to it the powers the vacumm action. It is in the Haynes under section 6 (no picture) but tells you how to check it. If your code indicated that was bad, go ahead and change it yourself (a $76 Ford-only part and about 5 minutes install), reset your computer (un plug Neg - post for about 15 minutes, then reconnect and go). If your lite comes back on then it is your pump (the 'UFO'), considering those are the only 2 pieces in the EGR process.

As for the Stalling, I don't think a bad EGR (either regulator or pump) would cause this. I would check the IAC (Idle Air Control). These have a bad habit of going out intermittently, you some times it works, some times it don't. You can clean these, but my experience has been that a cleaning just buys time and needs replacing.
Good Luck and let me know.

 

[kps36]

OH, forgot sumpin'.
It is easier to change the IAC with the throttle body off the engine. I would also recommend replacing the TPS (throttle postion sensor while you are at it. These fail fairly frequently and may improve your mpg.
my .02

 

[flyguy]

Is the IAC the piece that plugs into the TB? Or is that the sensor? Which is which? And how much does each cost about? Hmmm...

nick

 

[kps36]

The IAC bolts on to the TB. It's a good size piece (6x2") and has a plug on the backside and is stamped metal casing (actually looks like a small engine throttle body). The TPS sits right next to it and screws onto the TB (kinda pain to take off unless you remove the TB) it is about an inch square. If you have a good engine analyzer you can test the TPS before you go to the pain of rplacing (Haynes,section 6)
I paid $66 from Ford for the IAC and @$26 for the TPS.
Get a new TB Gasket also, unless you have a parts runner.

 

[SteveVB]

May also want to check and clean the MAF and make sure the hose from the MAF to the TB is on correctly- unmetered air can cause some problems. I agree the TPS is a likely candidate- it controls a ton of things related to drivability,trans,idle etc.

Good luck