-
Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks.
Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac,
Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar.
Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Register Today It's free!
Steering wheel alignment
- Thread starter artsimons
- Start date
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!.
rickcdewitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 3, 2007
- Messages
- 164
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- yorkville,ca
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 91ranger4x4
DO NOT remove the wheel and reinstall it strait.you must take it to a shop and let them change the position of the tie rod adjusters.
artsimons
Member
- Joined
- October 4, 2007
- Messages
- 10
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Åre
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 97
Wow thanks! may be I can put up with the mis-alignment as the mechanics here in Sweden charge a fortune.
manaen
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- February 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,701
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Clear Spring, MD
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2011 Xterra Pro-4X
it is actually something you can do yourself, if you have the capability for abstract thought, sorry I just watched Oh brother where art thou again..
Think about it logically, see the diagram below, the pitman arm is attached to your steering column (through the steering box). Well on the gen2's there is no pitman arm, but you get the point same properties apply.
The tie rods adjust the alignment for toe in/toe out by lengthening or shortening the tie rod. Your steering wheel is off because the person that set your alignment did not adjust both tie rods evenly, therefore your pitman arm was not properly centered. Now lets say your steering wheel is to far to the left, that is as if to say the top center of the wheel point to the left. this means that the center of your tie rods is too far to the left so you would need to lengthen the left rod and shorten the right rod the exact same amount to move the center more to the right.
The key with doing this is that you move the left one out the exact same amount that you move the right one in, that is basically very simple by counting the flats on the end of the tie rod (I will get into this more later). If you do not move each one exactly the same amount it will mess with your alignment and your truck will need to be re-aligned.
OK so that is the theory of it all, how do you do it. Well on the ends of each tie rod there is a threaded adjuster. They are both standard right hand threads, with a clamp that holds the threads from slipping. First you need to figure out which way the steering wheel needs to go then guess on how far. Small adjustments here make a big difference start with a little and work your way up until you get your wheel centered. Mark the starting points on each tie rod end so you can return there if things get messed up. You should not need to go more than a few flats on the adjustable ends. Remember they need to god in the opposite directions, and the adjusters are facing opposite directions so to shorten one and lengthen the other they will both be rotated in the same direction (I hope that makes sense). The last thing you want to do is get in there and adjust them in different directions which will either lengthen or shorten both sides messing up the alignment.
OK so step by step
1) mark the starting points on each end, a scoreline or sharpie work well here
2) figure out in your head which way the pitman center needs to change, so steering wheel top to the left then left (driver side) TR needs to be longer and the right (pass side) needs to be shorter, If the top of the wheel is to the right then do the reverse.
3) look at the threads on the ends and think about which way the end needs to be turned either lengthen or shorten them respectively. (righty tighty, lefty loosey
)
4) now this is important, do not loosen the clamps yet, but rotate the tie rods so that the ball ends are as far as they can go in the direction you will use to adjust them. If you miss this step there is no way to be sure the ends are adjusted properly together because the ball joints will rotate when you go to adjust the ends. This will mess with you count of the flats on the tie rod adjusters
5) now loosen the clamps on the ends
6) adjust each end in the proper direction (in on one, out on the other)
7) tighten the clamps
8) rotate the ball ends back to center
9) take it for a short drive to see how close you are
10) repeat the process until you have the wheel in the center.
It is harder to describe than to actually do, just use your head and think it through. The first time I set my own alignment I had to re-do it 5 times, but now the concepts are in my head it is very easy. This is way easier than setting alignment. You always have your marks to fall back on if you mess something up.
Think about it logically, see the diagram below, the pitman arm is attached to your steering column (through the steering box). Well on the gen2's there is no pitman arm, but you get the point same properties apply.
The tie rods adjust the alignment for toe in/toe out by lengthening or shortening the tie rod. Your steering wheel is off because the person that set your alignment did not adjust both tie rods evenly, therefore your pitman arm was not properly centered. Now lets say your steering wheel is to far to the left, that is as if to say the top center of the wheel point to the left. this means that the center of your tie rods is too far to the left so you would need to lengthen the left rod and shorten the right rod the exact same amount to move the center more to the right.
The key with doing this is that you move the left one out the exact same amount that you move the right one in, that is basically very simple by counting the flats on the end of the tie rod (I will get into this more later). If you do not move each one exactly the same amount it will mess with your alignment and your truck will need to be re-aligned.
OK so that is the theory of it all, how do you do it. Well on the ends of each tie rod there is a threaded adjuster. They are both standard right hand threads, with a clamp that holds the threads from slipping. First you need to figure out which way the steering wheel needs to go then guess on how far. Small adjustments here make a big difference start with a little and work your way up until you get your wheel centered. Mark the starting points on each tie rod end so you can return there if things get messed up. You should not need to go more than a few flats on the adjustable ends. Remember they need to god in the opposite directions, and the adjusters are facing opposite directions so to shorten one and lengthen the other they will both be rotated in the same direction (I hope that makes sense). The last thing you want to do is get in there and adjust them in different directions which will either lengthen or shorten both sides messing up the alignment.
OK so step by step
1) mark the starting points on each end, a scoreline or sharpie work well here
2) figure out in your head which way the pitman center needs to change, so steering wheel top to the left then left (driver side) TR needs to be longer and the right (pass side) needs to be shorter, If the top of the wheel is to the right then do the reverse.
3) look at the threads on the ends and think about which way the end needs to be turned either lengthen or shorten them respectively. (righty tighty, lefty loosey
)4) now this is important, do not loosen the clamps yet, but rotate the tie rods so that the ball ends are as far as they can go in the direction you will use to adjust them. If you miss this step there is no way to be sure the ends are adjusted properly together because the ball joints will rotate when you go to adjust the ends. This will mess with you count of the flats on the tie rod adjusters
5) now loosen the clamps on the ends
6) adjust each end in the proper direction (in on one, out on the other)
7) tighten the clamps
8) rotate the ball ends back to center
9) take it for a short drive to see how close you are
10) repeat the process until you have the wheel in the center.
It is harder to describe than to actually do, just use your head and think it through. The first time I set my own alignment I had to re-do it 5 times, but now the concepts are in my head it is very easy. This is way easier than setting alignment. You always have your marks to fall back on if you mess something up.
Attachments
skoal_mint
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- September 19, 2005
- Messages
- 537
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Geraldton ontario
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 97 explorer sport 4.0
Wow, that was lots of reading, lol.
You probly have a rack and pinion right, loosen jam nuts and turn drivers like tierod up half turn, turn passangers side up one half. This will bring your steering wheel to the right.. much easier to read.
Half a turn should do it, if not repeat...If you need your steering wheel to the left turn the tierods down, their regular threads...If you have the other style then you need to buy a tool, pipe wrenches dont work too well
You probly have a rack and pinion right, loosen jam nuts and turn drivers like tierod up half turn, turn passangers side up one half. This will bring your steering wheel to the right.. much easier to read.
Half a turn should do it, if not repeat...If you need your steering wheel to the left turn the tierods down, their regular threads...If you have the other style then you need to buy a tool, pipe wrenches dont work too well
crashman
Member
- Joined
- October 6, 2007
- Messages
- 15
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Ottawa
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2001 XLS
Alignments are cheaper than tires.
"Consider that if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile"
Steve
"Consider that if the toe setting is just 1/16-inch off of its appropriate setting, each tire on that axle will scrub almost seven feet sideways every mile"
Steve
manaen
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- February 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,701
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Clear Spring, MD
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2011 Xterra Pro-4X
which is why you start by marking the original position. you can also measure the distance between your marks to make sure you have each one set relative to the other. It's not rocket science, it just takes some thought and preparation.
manaen
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- February 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,701
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Clear Spring, MD
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2011 Xterra Pro-4X
thanks.. I Think :scratch: I try to be thorough, the guy has to understand it, to work on it..
actually the newer trucks do not, but I drew a R&P because it is easier to visualize
[/quote]
a half a turn is a lot when adjusting alignment, it would probably only take one or two flats on the adjuster. (1/8 to 1/4 turn)
skoal_mint
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- September 19, 2005
- Messages
- 537
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- Geraldton ontario
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 97 explorer sport 4.0
I didnt mean nothing bad about the post, great post.
But his is a 97, a half it is just enough, your thinking a half a turn on a sleeve which would be lots, thats like turning your outter tierod end two whole turns.
On our type its perfect, pluse if you can see the steering wheel ****ed, then its out atleast a half a turn
But his is a 97, a half it is just enough, your thinking a half a turn on a sleeve which would be lots, thats like turning your outter tierod end two whole turns.
On our type its perfect, pluse if you can see the steering wheel ****ed, then its out atleast a half a turn
manaen
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- February 27, 2007
- Messages
- 2,701
- Reaction score
- 4
- City, State
- Clear Spring, MD
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2011 Xterra Pro-4X
It's no problem, I wasn't offended at all, it takes way more than that for me to feel offended.
Anyway hopefully the guy can fix his wheel...
Anyway hopefully the guy can fix his wheel...
rickcdewitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- August 3, 2007
- Messages
- 164
- Reaction score
- 1
- City, State
- yorkville,ca
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 91ranger4x4
depending on his mileage and how long its been since the last alignment its probably a good idea to spend 50$ and get the alignment checked by a shop.especially if it was a curb that made the wheel off center not a lazy tech.not too mention the probability of not getting toe correct.
crashman
Member
- Joined
- October 6, 2007
- Messages
- 15
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Ottawa
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2001 XLS
manaen - I agree that you can definitely straighten a wheel and be fairly close to even toe. I've done many alignments by eye myself with no serious wear problems, but I knew the rest of the car was aligned well. I've also seen some bad tire wear, even though the wheel was "straight" . Personally , when dealing with new/expensive tires I like to see the numbers from all 4 corners on a good alignment rack.
Steve
Steve
Featured images
Featured images
