Wheel alignment nightmare

[Rhett]

At least you don't have a lifted TTB. You should see the look on the face of the average alignment tech these days, when they see what I brung 'em. It wasn't like that even 15 years ago, but it seems that all of those guys have retired.

 

[bigred4x4]

As much as I hate my local Firestone because I know they work off commission and do everything they can to squeeze every penny out of somebody they did a good job on my alignment and always provide me with print out sheets and they did adjust the camber bolts that I had install and adjusted it is close to my preference as they could but with Ford's almost every one that I have driven from both of my explores to my focus to most of my work vans have all had inner tire wear up front which is one of the main reasons why I've always been afraid to put a tire on that's more aggressive than an all terrain. They're just too expensive especially in larger sizes to have last only a few years if that.i got 10 years out of my bfg ko's and only a year out of the Dunlop mud rovers on my old ex.

 

[CDW6212R]

Good story Phil, it's a shame it happened, but good to hear it ended better than expected. I'm glad that truck is just RWD too, there are tons of AWD versions out there that people find out the hard way about tire wear/diameters. I hope you get great wear from the new tires. My Michelin LTX/2's got me about 22k miles, not great but okay for my work.

My preferred alignment shop is fairly good, but they missed my sister's Jeep problems completely. I spent may hours after they and a Firestone shop worked on it, rebuilding the whole front suspension. Shops aren't perfect, but they need to try really hard to not make mistakes.

I need to get an alignment soon for my 99 truck, all new parts, and hopefully I can get it lowered some. They couldn't do anything with it last time, and it had/has the camber bolts/washers. I'm swapping spindles too, going away from the Sport Trac 12" rotors, to the 98 Mercury spindles, which are the ones that have done great on my lowered Mountaineer. There is a variance in the machining of the parts effecting alignment(frame brackets etc), and lower or lifting away from stock moves it all closer to the limits to get a good alignment.

 

[koda2000]

Good story Phil, it's a shame it happened, but good to hear it ended better than expected. I'm glad that truck is just RWD too, there are tons of AWD versions out there that people find out the hard way about tire wear/diameters. I hope you get great wear from the new tires. My Michelin LTX/2's got me about 22k miles, not great but okay for my work.

My preferred alignment shop is fairly good, but they missed my sister's Jeep problems completely. I spent may hours after they and a Firestone shop worked on it, rebuilding the whole front suspension. Shops aren't perfect, but they need to try really hard to not make mistakes.

I need to get an alignment soon for my 99 truck, all new parts, and hopefully I can get it lowered some. They couldn't do anything with it last time, and it had/has the camber bolts/washers. I'm swapping spindles too, going away from the Sport Trac 12" rotors, to the 98 Mercury spindles, which are the ones that have done great on my lowered Mountaineer. There is a variance in the machining of the parts effecting alignment(frame brackets etc), and lower or lifting away from stock moves it all closer to the limits to get a good alignment.

When I bought this truck, back in 2012, it had a set brand new Michelin LTX/2's on it. My daughter got about 50K out of that set. The second set I ran across on CL quite by accident. It turned out the guy lived just down the road from me and worked at our local Chrysler dealership. He wanted $200 for the set of 4 tires with the wheels. He was installing larger tires/wheels on his Expl for off-roading. I didn't want the wheels and got the tires for $160. The tires had a little wear, but were in very good condition. I'd guess they had maybe 10K on them. I met him at the dealership where he removed the tires from the wheels on his lunch hour. I saved the tires until my daughter was ready to put them on. I was stoked that we'd gotten such a good deal. I couldn't the tires, because my EB has 16" wheels. I really like the Michelin's. They give a better ride because the sidewalls are softer. I've got 60K on the set on m EB so far and there's still life left on them. You must be hard on tires if you wore your's out in only 22K.

 

[CDW6212R]

Oh yes, my mail route has lots of narrow turn arounds and some gravel. My steering, suspension, brakes, and the tires are severely tested every day. I've got a creaking in my left front suspension that is probably some looseness in the control arm bolts, or body mount bolts, or something else that shouldn't be loose. I'll look at it harder when I get new tires on it, and another alignment.

These are tough trucks, they can take a lot of hard use.

 

[koda2000]

Oh yes, my mail route has lots of narrow turn arounds and some gravel. My steering, suspension, brakes, and the tires are severely tested every day. I've got a creaking in my left front suspension that is probably some looseness in the control arm bolts, or body mount bolts, or something else that shouldn't be loose. I'll look at it harder when I get new tires on it, and another alignment.

These are tough trucks, they can take a lot of hard use.

I have what I would call a creaking (it's kinda like a bushing when it goes dry/bad) in the steering on my '01 EB. I only notice it while parking after driving for 30 mins or more. I'm thinking it's probably a worn inner tie rod end. It's almost like you feel it more than hear it and it seems more noticeable during the summer months. When I first purchased the truck I thought is was a ball joint, as the OE boots were rotted away, but I've replaced the BJ's, outer tie rod ends, shocks, sway bar end-links and bushings and the sensation is still there. Annoying.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I feel that, and like that, I hope my noises etc, don't end up being hard to fix/find. I only have new hubs and brakes, with trusted CV's and diff, from my Mercury. I'll replace it all next Spring and see what's left then.

Try spray lubricants on the bushings etc, to see if your creaking diminishes any.

 

[koda2000]

Yes, I feel that, and like that, I hope my noises etc, don't end up being hard to fix/find. I only have new hubs and brakes, with trusted CV's and diff, from my Mercury. I'll replace it all next Spring and see what's left then.

Try spray lubricants on the bushings etc, to see if your creaking diminishes any.

The problem is that in order to spray anything on the inner tie rods I have to get the boots off the rack. Kind of a PITA because you have to cut the boot clamps off and then replace them afterwards (I do have the tool for that job leftover from my front drive shaft CV rebuild). If I'm going through that much trouble I might as well change the inner tie rods and see what that will do for me.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the tie rods don't have bushings to grease, just the outer one zerk fitting. The TRE's will usually give a loose or wandering feeling in the steering wheel. If you have a very large Channel Lock pliers, you can check the outers by squeezing them. If they move then it's time to replace them.

 

[SupaSwope]

I might be having a similar issue.

I went outside today and checked my tires pressure. All were between 30-31 I put them back up to 32. But my front right side outer tire is all jacked up. And the rear was starting to get that way. The rear did not look like that less then 800 miles ago when I did the front and got the alignment and put new tires on the front.

I threw away my alignment sheet but I remember most of it. I remember the right side camber being 5.2 Degrees and the left side was 3.2. I also did have a bad wheel bearing on the right side I changed out a few weeks ago.

I will post some pictures but I don't know what to think. I don't know if it was me or the alignment.

 

[bigred4x4]

Those camber readings seem a tad high I'd install some cam bolts and get that adjusted.

 

[SupaSwope]

I put camber kits in all the way around.

Front Right

Rear Right

Front Left

Rear Left

Overall

 

[bigred4x4]

All the way around? Do you not have a solid rear axle?

 

[SupaSwope]

I have a SRA. But there's only 4 spots to put them. I guess I should have been more specific. Its just a Stock 5.0 RWD.

 

[swshawaii]

Check OP koda's first update post #12. Not uncommon for UCA bolts to loosen, especially after camber kits are installed.

 

[koda2000]

Yes, the tie rods don't have bushings to grease, just the outer one zerk fitting. The TRE's will usually give a loose or wandering feeling in the steering wheel. If you have a very large Channel Lock pliers, you can check the outers by squeezing them. If they move then it's time to replace them.

Creaking: I've never experienced any "wandering" sensation. IDK. I can't think of anything else it could be. As I almost never drive my EB anymore I guess it's not a priority right now.

Door Opener: So my new Craftsman garage door opener arrived yesterday afternoon. I installed it today and found out that it is not compatible with my Homelink. So now I have to purchase a compatibility bridge to have my Homelink buttons work. That's another $25 to add to this job. I wish the Craftsman opener's specs told me that ahead of time.

 

[CDW6212R]

I put camber kits in all the way around.

Front Right

Rear Right

Front Left

Rear Left

Overall

If the camber on those was as high as 4-5 degrees, that will eat the front tire edges fast. I think the shops try for close to zero, and 1* or so is the outer limit most accept. My shop said mine would be near 3* on one side, so they got me to allow them to raise it back to near stock, to get it closer to zero.

My tires have worn evenly, but I run pressures around 36+ in front, and 34 in back. If you have edge wear like in the pictures, with good alignment figures, then they need more air.

The more air you put in, the more center tire wear there will be. Too little air wears out the edges too fast, basically the outer edges. The alignment is critical to get even tire wear just going straight down the road. If that is off then the tires will wear the edges fast, with any air pressures, just going straight or easy.

 

[SupaSwope]

All the tires were set to 32 when I sent it to the shop and when I checked after. I did had a bearing go out (front 2WD, Right Side) within a few hundred miles after the alignment I have since changed and all has been well.

I did not notice the wear then but I was not looking that hard but maybe it wasn't there yet. I don't know.

What I do know.

PSI in all tires has been between 30-32.
Left side is not effected at all.
Right Side Camber was 2 degrees higher then left side. 3.2 Left 5.2 Right (Has Moog 1-5/8th camber kit on both sides)

I am going to take it to the shop. At the bare minim explain the issue and have them check the alignment(its free for 6 months). And see what he says. I don't want to ruin the tire anymore then it is and need to fix the issue. I cannot afford not to.

So what your saying it could be my tire pressure if my alignment is considered good?
Are the figures I said to be considered within specification?
In this post I am going to link, message #5 someone posts their alignment specs and mine were similar to his.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/factory-alignment-specs.195521/

If this were true. Then the alignment was true and I am just under inflating my tires.

But if I am under inflating my tires why is only one side affected. Including the rear.?

 

[CDW6212R]

A two degree difference can create that much wear on the one side more than the other. But the camber is a +or-, negative is leaning in and wears the inner edge more. Most shops aim for near zero camber, but you want it on the negative side if possible. Positive camber makes the outer edge wear very fast compared to negative camber. But still the figures should be very near to zero, say -1 to +1 degree if they can get that. I usually tell my man to be sure to put mine on the negative range of the specs, since I'm not slow going around corners. That gets me better tire wear, close to even(with the right tire pressure).

Remember that every tire is different, brands and models etc. Not every tire wears the same with the same pressure. I usually end up just over 35psi in front, and just under that in the rear, given the 44psi tires I've had over the last 25 years. The heavier front needs more air to reduce the edge wear from turns. The back does fine with a little less than the fronts.

BTW, I found my noise today, swapping tires and checking my brakes. The slight grinding was a pad just beginning to hit metal along the outer edge. But I discovered I have a torn CV boot on my right axle. I might have been feeling the CV joint running dry, before it starts to pop etc. I have a new one for my 99 truck, so when brake pads come I'll do the axle also. Night,