Stock HU with aftermarket amp and sub problems

[dpappyp]

I just bought a 2000 Mountaineer last week that came with the Mach system an d subwoofer. I wanted to add the 15" sub I had in my previous car, but keep the stock Mach HU because of its nice big controls and vastly superior tuner compared to my aftermarket HU. So I have tried, but failed. I've searched these forums and google, but have not found the answer so I am asking for help. I tried splicing RCA cables into the subwoofer output at the back of the HU and then going from there to my amp. The result is very quiet. The sub is movin and making sound like it should, but just not nearly as much as it should. I tried it with the factory sub also connected and with it disconnected. Other people on this forum have supposedly had success with this method, but not me. I hate to give up on keeping the stock HU now after working on this in -3 degree weather all day Sunday, stabbing my thumb with a stray strand of wire, and finally burning myself with the soldering iron while trying to fix the display (worked for like 10 min, then back to crap). If my problem of a working, but really quiet sub has been discussed on here before then please point me to where it is and sorry for bringing up the topic again.


Thanks,
Dan

 

[steventadams]

I just bought a 2000 Mountaineer last week that came with the Mach system an d subwoofer. I wanted to add the 15" sub I had in my previous car, but keep the stock Mach HU because of its nice big controls and vastly superior tuner compared to my aftermarket HU. So I have tried, but failed. I've searched these forums and google, but have not found the answer so I am asking for help. I tried splicing RCA cables into the subwoofer output at the back of the HU and then going from there to my amp. The result is very quiet. The sub is movin and making sound like it should, but just not nearly as much as it should. I tried it with the factory sub also connected and with it disconnected. Other people on this forum have supposedly had success with this method, but not me. I hate to give up on keeping the stock HU now after working on this in -3 degree weather all day Sunday, stabbing my thumb with a stray strand of wire, and finally burning myself with the soldering iron while trying to fix the display (worked for like 10 min, then back to crap). If my problem of a working, but really quiet sub has been discussed on here before then please point me to where it is and sorry for bringing up the topic again.


Thanks,
Dan

I'm guessing the stock HU has speaker-level outputs for the subwoofer. Probably the easiest way to make your subwoofer work (also assuming that you are using a new amp to power the 15") is to get an amp that has speaker level inputs. You can also get a converter that will turn the speaker level outputs to RCA outputs at places like Circuit City or 6th Ave Electronics... It's called a line output converter or something to that effect

EDIT: turns out Crutchfield has it too. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6644UaEkwRt/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?i=142SLC4

 

[dpappyp]

If anything wouldnt a LOC reduce the signal and make the sub even quieter? Also someone mentioned on here that the sub output of the HU is at around pre-amp levels (as it is going to the factory amp and not directly to a speaker). Of course maybe they or them were wrong? And yes the amp I'm using for the 15" is an aftermarket and not the factory one (Bazooka amp, Orion sub).

Thanks for the reply

 

[NYMount21]

Hey man, i have the same truck and had two 12's and an amp set-up going for awhile. IT WAS THE WORST IDEA I EVER HAD haha. The stock radio cannot control and tweak the subs as well an aftermarket hu can, the subs were way too loud. Your most likely better off just throwin in a hu in my opinion.....i've been there

 

[dpappyp]

wow, all i can say is wow am i an absolute idiot. for those of you out there who are somewhat familiar with audio wiring, what is one of the basic things you check when the setup is working but just very quiet? POLARITY. sub-zero temps must be freezing my brain. tried it just for a bit since it so cold and dont want to damage the cone or surround but it sounded decent. not as loud as i remember it being my previous car, but of course that might just be from the cold weather stiffening things up. now i just need to get that resistor in the remote turn on line to stop the dmn thing from popping, scares the hell out of me.

Thanks for the quick replies guys, great forum you got here

 

[dpappyp]

I get a loud thump or pop from my aftermarket amp and sub when I power off the factory stereo. Is this also remedied with a resistor inline with the remote turn on lead on the aftermarket amp like it is for the "aftermarket stereo, factory amp/sub" problem?

Thanks

 

[toypaseo]

I used a PAC OEM-2 to add an aftermarket amp and sub.

Here is the manual:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/127/127OEM2.PDF

It converted the Ford 6V(?) turn on lead into a 12V, with a turn-on delay.

If you search, you can find the correct resistor value to help your thump issue.

 

[DJ Money]

Factory Amps and sub

My girlfreind has the focus with the mach system that sounds verry simmular to yours. I have looked at (also had pros tell me) and b/c of the wiring you cant just switch parts of the system its all or nothing. If you change the head unit you have to run all new wires to the speakers and you lose the factory sub. if you want to replace just the speaker (sub) you probably could but if you want to change the amp you have to change the head unit then you have to re wire the whole car.

I think your best two options are to leave it alone or rip out every every every thing and replace it all.

 

[dpappyp]

i didnt' use the 6V amp turn on lead from the HU to turn on my aftermarket amp, i used the 12V acc turn on lead (the wire that tells the HU to turn on) to turn on my aftermarket amp, so now it turns on 2 components

 

[dpappyp]

Tried the resistor trick, but it has no effect. It may have softened it a bit, but the pop/thump is still there.

Any suggestions?