Strange noise .. Sudden loss of brakes and fluid and dash Lights on HELP

[cdnjan]

Hi there
Help Please
Last night after getting gas. I restarted my explorer 4*4 with the foot on the brake. Something felt and sounded a little strange .. just thought maybe my foot slipped. Then started driving I realized the first time i began to brake something was not right .. then that the dash brake light things were lit up. I stopped vehicle and checked brake fluid it had lost a lot almost half ... I drove a short distance to get some fluid ... knowing I had serious problem but had to get home . I got the fluid, topped it up, spoke to a few people and made my way home slowly with little use of brakes. When I stopped there was a nasty puddle near the rear driver side wheel ... it was dripping thru the metal thing that protects the gas tank?? ... I am guessing brake line ... I do realize it was dangerous to drive home {but after the initial loss it seemed to hold the new fluid} question is ?? can i drive it back into town 12 miles to a brake shop {I live in the country} slowly with stopping to check fluid ?? Thank You for any input .. don't be to hard on me was one of those days.
It is no problem to drive 50-60 kmh 30-35 mph the route I will take and its not busy. The brakes work just not like I am used to
Jan

 

[BIGHVM]

You should really get towed onto town, nut if you have to drive, leave massive space between you and any other cars, look well ahead for lights and stops and crawl there-be very careful and stop to check the fluid level................OFTEN!

 

[Four0Sport]

there are some great threads on how to replace or section rusted brake line. i would also check on the backside of the back wheel. if fluid is dripping out of the brake drum you prbly have a busted wheel cylinder. good luck.

 

[marragtop]

It sounds like the metal line that goes from the proportioning valve (by left front wheel) to the flex line at the rear axel is leaking. This is not too difficult a repair for someone that has replaced brake lines before. The system will need to be bled which means the bleeder screws will need to be opened. I suggest soaking the bleeders with PB Blaster before trying to crack them loose. If the bleeders break off, it will only add to your problems. Good luck.

 

[cdnjan]

Hello Everyone,
Thank You for your replies.
"Big" TY I am on Vancouver Island and in the country. My mechanic [if available] lives before I get to town or any streetlights. I realize it maybe dangerous but I am trying to avoid tow truck charge. Not at the expense of an accident tho and possibly hitting someone. I am just trying to get a feeling for how far can I or should I push it. I read somewhere about "you still have front brakes" Is this true? I mean as long as I can keep fluid topped up? It is strange that after the first big loss of fluid I only lost a very small amount. Maybe something temporarily sealed it?

"Four" TY I really don't think I will do it myself I don't have the tools and would need to drive to get the parts I have access to no other vehicle. So oece I head out I will take it directly to my mechanic or another shop

"Marr" TY Do you think if I this is the problem [ which sounds right to me]
Should I get him to do both sides ... I suppose at least to inspect it? AM I right in thinking the metal thing covering the gas tank is to protect that?
This is where the fluid was dripping out .. out of a "drain" ? hole in that plate.

Thanks again for your input and if you have anymore I would appreciate it
Regards
Jan

 

[marragtop]

You are correct, you should still have front brakes as long as you keep the master cylinder topped off. If you are going to drive slowly, consider using the parking brake when you have to stop as that will not discharge any brake fluid. You can also help slow it down by downshifting to a lower gear.

I would have the mechanic inspect all the lines. If the one running from the front to the rear is bad, then most likely the metal lines that run across the rear axle are bad. He should also inspect the flex line at the rear axle and the wheel cylinders. Hopefully, he will get the bleeders open.

 

[cdnjan]

Thank You again for your input

Just waiting to hear now from my mechanic.
Now this is a biggie and perhaps not -answerable because of all the if and or buts

Any ideas on min or max cost I m ay be looking at .. I like to be prepared.

So like a quick fix on the one line now .. and the others to be done later?

or all of them done now

Sorry I know its tricky but your input is greatly appreciated
Jan

 

[marragtop]

First, most mechanics will err on the side of caution when it comes to brake work. To replace the main line going from the front to the rear flex hose, I'd figure on an hour of labor (whatever their rate is) and $30 in parts. If he also does the rear line across the axle and the flex hose, probably another 45 minutes labor and $50 in parts. Needless to say these are pure guesstimates based on my experiences and are all US $$.

 

[autogts@yahoo.co]

I had the same problem. Except I was driving out of town and I still have 2 hours to go and it was 1:30 in the morning.... can't get worse than that!. Anyway ... yes it was the brake fluid line. It was rusty and finally it could not hold presure. This is what I did ... stopped by a gas station and bought brake fluid, clamps and ductape (yes! ductape). I got under the truck ... cleaned the line where it is leaking from... put some ductape and 2 clamps on the hole .... filled up the brake fluid and tested it .. there was leak .. but not as before .. drove it the 2 hours and got home safe ... only used my brakes twice in the 2 hours drive