Stuck In 4x4 High!!!

[stilbo]

Okay... I searched this forum and pretty much drew a blank (page).

'96 Exp Limited, 4.0, standard 4x4 (NOT AWD/Control Trac).

Just installed third front driveshaft and still noticed vibration at and above 65 mph. DO NOT buy "rebuilt" drive shafts from Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc. Their rebuilders seem to miss the important step of lubricating the universals. This latest shaft was rebuilt in a 4x4/Driveshaft machine shop. That's how we found the dry bearings. Anyway, back to the vibration

The Limited models (will not buy another) have issues with the sound system, ARC sensors and shocks and the driveshafts. The front drive shafts seem to be different from XLT's in that they allow for ride height adjustment's via the ARC system and these shafts make it next to impossible to install greaseable u-joints. We installed needle zerks but they are almost impossible to get to.

Anyway... I noticed this vibration (again) at 65 mph and above so I start removing the front drive shaft for the fourth time in the last three years. Only this time I start to rotate the front drive shaft (it should freewheel when truck was shut off in 2 wd) to get to the bolts and I can't turn the shaft. Then I notice that when I try to turn the front shaft, the rear shaft is trying to turn. EUREKA! The vibration at 70 mph is because the damn thing is stuck in 4wd High!

I cycle the switch from 2wd to 4wd High and I can't hear the transfer case motor or any clunk. I turn the switch to 4wd Low (in neutral) and I get the old familiar motor sound and clunk. I turn back to 4wd High and 2wd High and it only seems to go to 4wd High.

I remember taking the switch out and apart on my old '93 XLT about seven years ago (thanks to this forum I saved a gob of $ on that one) and cleaning it with electronic cleaner and a 3M pad and it worked great again.

I was hoping to find a quick answer to my present problem but I literally drew a blank page on every search.

I know that this system is somewhat different from my '93 XLT so......

Before I pull any switches, motors or GEMS out of it, I'd like a good clue as to what exactly the problem may be.

I've only got 202,000 miles on this one and I'm hoping to get another 100k but I'm starting to miss my old '93.

Thanks...

Ron S.

 

[35Remmy]

I'm as stumped as you are, and I'm sorry I can't offer any advice...but I gawked when I saw you say that "I've ONLY got 202,000 on this one"...!!!!!!!!!!!

ONLY???!!!

How many miles do you expect a vehicle to last???!!!

If vehicles were MEANT to last over 200K miles, automobile manufacturers would be out of business!!!

Good for you, though.bb

 

[stilbo]

!

 

[stilbo]

I've owned three Explorers...

They were all purchased with about 70k on them.

With proper maintenance at specified factory intervals I've been able to get 240k on my '91 Sport and 230k on my '93 XLT.

Why did I get rid of them?

Blue two door wanted red four door wanted Limited with leather and no locking hubs, etc.

Outside of normal wear items like brakes, altenators, wheel bearings and such there is no reason not to expect 200k + miles from any post 1995 vehicle. Close tolerances and design improvements based on previous engineering mistakes pretty much dictates the longevity of modern vehicles.

I'm constantly amazed how some people can trash a fairly new vehicle by doing stupid things to it or just as bad, doing nothing (other than driving it) at all. Chrysler Credit was sued for not approving credit in areas of Chicago that were turning new cars into beaters in less than 12 months and 12,000 miles.....

If you applied the same line of thought to get rid of a vehicle (200k + miles or less) to aircraft, we would be still going everywhere on trains. Aircraft would be prohibitively expensive if they were not able to fly millions of miles and make tens of thousands of landings and takeoffs in their thirty, forty or fifty year lifetimes.

Last weekend I did a brake job on a friend's VW Jetta 1999 TDI. It only has 265,000 miles on it. He works for a railroad.

I'm not gonna get rid of my '96 Limited because it's hanging up in 4wd. Mileage is secondary to my decisions to get rid of vehicles.

I work construction for a utlity company in northern Indiana and drive from North central Indiana to Chicago or Ohio all year long. Some of my daily commutes are 120 miles one way.

But I digress....

Why is my Plory hangin up in 4wd?

 

[gijoecam]

First, a clarification... Unless you have installed a manual transfer case out of a first-gen Explorer or a Ranger, you have a Control Trac Automatic 4wd system. If you have a knob on the dash and a selectable 2-speed transfer case, you have a Borg-warner 44-05 transfer case, just like all the second-gen V-6s.

I need to get to a meeting, but remind me in a couple hours and I'll complete my thought,.... The short answer is the t-case is likely shot. It's not a shift motor issue as the shift motor is not responsible for lockup on the second-gens. It's locked-up and there's no easy way to unlock it. More later...

 

[alwaysfixn]

Okay... I searched this forum and pretty much drew a blank (page).

'96 Exp Limited, 4.0, standard 4x4 (NOT AWD/Control Trac).

Just installed third front driveshaft and still noticed vibration at and above 65 mph. DO NOT buy "rebuilt" drive shafts from Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc. Their rebuilders seem to miss the important step of lubricating the universals. This latest shaft was rebuilt in a 4x4/Driveshaft machine shop. That's how we found the dry bearings. Anyway, back to the vibration

The Limited models (will not buy another) have issues with the sound system, ARC sensors and shocks and the driveshafts. The front drive shafts seem to be different from XLT's in that they allow for ride height adjustment's via the ARC system and these shafts make it next to impossible to install greaseable u-joints. We installed needle zerks but they are almost impossible to get to.

Anyway... I noticed this vibration (again) at 65 mph and above so I start removing the front drive shaft for the fourth time in the last three years. Only this time I start to rotate the front drive shaft (it should freewheel when truck was shut off in 2 wd) to get to the bolts and I can't turn the shaft. Then I notice that when I try to turn the front shaft, the rear shaft is trying to turn. EUREKA! The vibration at 70 mph is because the damn thing is stuck in 4wd High!

I cycle the switch from 2wd to 4wd High and I can't hear the transfer case motor or any clunk. I turn the switch to 4wd Low (in neutral) and I get the old familiar motor sound and clunk. I turn back to 4wd High and 2wd High and it only seems to go to 4wd High.

I remember taking the switch out and apart on my old '93 XLT about seven years ago (thanks to this forum I saved a gob of $ on that one) and cleaning it with electronic cleaner and a 3M pad and it worked great again.

I was hoping to find a quick answer to my present problem but I literally drew a blank page on every search.

I know that this system is somewhat different from my '93 XLT so......

Before I pull any switches, motors or GEMS out of it, I'd like a good clue as to what exactly the problem may be.

I've only got 202,000 miles on this one and I'm hoping to get another 100k but I'm starting to miss my old '93.

Thanks...

Ron S.

 

[alwaysfixn]

yeah I have same problem auto has become high 4x4 only low switching works fine back & forth fine just no auto at all. I rebuilt my T-case myself when reassembled It was locked up solid one of the bearings not seated right it pulled down & unlocked after rear shaft nut was tightened . after all that it was missing auto it is not shift motor problem.
I suspect clutch pack as slight wear marks between clutch pack & armature there is a washer in between them . shift fork works fine manually engages high & low fine. that is I will be pulling down T-case later & will post result I expect the problem to be in clutch pack locking together if you have had a chater in auto that is how my T-case started problems .I think look there for answer to u 2