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Subwoofer Enclosure

imnotted

Active Member
Joined
July 9, 2004
Messages
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City, State
the Albuquerque.
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 V8 XLT
I recently purchased a 98 XLT with the mach audio system in it. IMHO, the subwoofer was way too weak. QLogic wants ~$200 for their 10" box, and I'm cheap. Thus, I have undertaken a box building project. I've spent the past month designing it on paper, and now I've begun fabrication.

As you can see with the pic below, it's pretty close to the factory box but has a volume of .57ft^3 and can support a 10" sub, 5.375" depth. It's also made of 5/8" particle board (1" thick on the face). It's not perfect, but with the plans tweaked a little and some glue/sawdust mix and silicone, it should prove to be a worthy replacement. If anybody wants the plans to this, I can scan them and merge them into PDF format once I'm done and I've tested it in the explorer. I'll update in a week when I should be done with fabrication and testing.
05.jpg
 



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looks sweet indeed!! might want a few more screws...i built my own stealth box too cause i didnt want to pay $200 for a piece of plastic either ;)
 






Are you planning on using the factory HU and such and tapping into it with your amp? If so, I haven't yet found a way to make this work well (it works, but the output sucks).

See this thread, my last post, and I explain why I don't think it works. Not saying it can't be done though! If ya figure it out, lemme know!

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114267
 












I'm definately switching HUs. I've got the fading display and error cd problem. I ended up pitching the unit because imho, it's a piece of crap. It's doable, but if you're investing this much time and effort, I'd take the money you saved building the box and go buy a nice sony deck off of ebay or something.

You might be able to squeeze just a little bit more volume, but you'd have to be really really really really precise with your cuts. With the way all of the sheet metal routes in my XLT, that's about all the volume you can get. If you know how to bend MDF, you can get it to mate with the wheel well instead of doing an angled cut at the bottom right like I did.

And yes, more screws will come, but I'm really just looking at them as place holders. I'm using carpenter's glue on the seams with the screws to clamp the pieces, then I'm going to make a mix of sawdust and glue and paint all the edges, then coat it all with silicone to seal it. Should hold tight.

Another thing to take into account, cougar. I used an Audiobahn ALUM10Q for my speaker and test fitted it last night with a cut away view. I'm glad I added an extra 3/8" of space to audiobahn's specs, cause here's the result:
tightfit.jpg
 






Oh, just read that other thread. I see what they're talking about. They just spliced into one of the hi lines for one of the door speakers. You could do it too if you want. I believe one of these would do the job. But like I said earlier, I'd take the money saved doing the box project and buy a nicer deck. If you still have factory speakers, it might be time to look on ebay and invest a little there too. I was lucky. I bought my explorer with infinity kappas in the front doors and some weird eclipse model in the rear! :D
 






Send me plans when they are ready? Keep the pics coming too!
 






Could you send me the plans as well when you get them scanned?

Also, where did you buy 5/8" MDF? All i can find at Lowes/Home Depot is 3/4". I know its not that much difference but i need all the extra volume i can get cause i'd like to get as close to .75ft^3 as possible.
 






I bought precut 2x4 5/8" at home depot, I believe. I think I got the 1/2" from Lowe's (I sandwiched 2 together to make the 1" thick face). Could be the reverse. They have it here in san antonio, so if it's not at your store, ask them and they can get it in. As far as plans go, I'll just scan all of my notes, throw in some commentary to make assembly easier (as well as my errors here and there), merge it into pdf format and host it on my webserver. I'll test it too, of course, to ensure the design fits properly and it supports my sub.
 






I finished the box and fitted it today. It's a really tight fit, and it protrudes about a 1/4" more than I wanted it to, but it'll definately work. I now have a slight gap towards the bottom of the panel where the door closes (as seen in the last picture). To give you an idea of how tight it fits, the first couple times I put it in I had to use a prybar to get it out! I wasn't really expecting something absolutely perfect. I trimmed the opening a little so the rubber ring on the sub won't hit the plastic when it's going. I don't get all of the necessary components to drive it until sometime this week or next, so I haven't had a chance to test it properly. I'll start merging the plans into the computer so I can share them once I've properly tested the box. I'm also going to try to tidy up the mount a little. So far, so good!

Finished Product
12.jpg

Prepping
13.jpg

Fitting
15.jpg

It's in!!
18.jpg

The ugly gap I have now...
19.jpg
 






Got all of my amp equipment in today and hooked it up immediately. The box works, and it works well. I have it hooked up to my crappy JVC deck (3 yrs old) while I wait for my new xplod with the built in hpf, which I really need. even with the jvc it sounds amazing! I'm going to start copying all of the plans when I get time (next week maybe??). until then, hold tight!
 






impressive execution of a design into a real box. most people mess up inbetween there when cutting the wood perfect is important.

that ugly gap... take the box out, find that pressure point, belt-sand it down.
 






Could you send me plans as well? That looks great!
 






i want plans. Im bulding a 15" SPL enclusre, but i was seeing if i could squeeze 2 6.5 inch midbass there.
 






midbass belong up front
 






The pressure point is where the upper right plate (or rear depending on how you look at it) fits in. the angle sits just a tad too high. the first two times I pulled the box out with a pry bar, I had red paint in that spot of the box. I'll sand it down eventually, but it's a case of not caring enough and not enough time. I just bought a Porsche 924 track car AND a 90 CRX Si commuter car, so I have to get those fully functional and the plans up before I can tackle it. but thanks for the compliments all!

Note: I haven't done any major box projects...ever. Last time I did any woodworking was 7 years ago in woodshop. In other words, I'm going to try to make the plans as user friendly as possible. ;)
 






ttt
 






Anyone ever recieve plans for this box?

Ryan
 






no, because I haven't put them together. I've had tons going on, namely getting the porsche ready for competition for sept 25 & 26. but, I did get half of it drawn, and the way this evening is going, I might get the other half done along with some of the step by step instructions. once I get them all done, I'll post them on one of my webservers in pdf format for all to enjoy! sorry for the delay.
 



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besides particle board what else is good to make custom boxes with. I was just given 3 jl audio 10" subs my friend bought in germany and want to make a box for them. I know it is going to take up a lot of room but i dont use the back of my x. Thanks for any help. And does anyone know about how much particle board runs.
 






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