Don't have it on my page but....
Here is something I wrote up. Its probably not complete but it might help wwith the superlift instructions.
Installation of the 5.5 inch lift on a 92 Ford Explorer Sport.
This is a set of instuctions based on my experience, in it you will find instructions provided by superlift and my own instructions/recomendations.
I would recomend reading Superlifts instructions a number of times along with these so that you understand what needs to be done and how its supposed to be done. Also I would recomend getting under your Explorer a couple of times before starting this so you know what everything looks like.
Now there are a couple of warnings that I should outline.
Superlifts warning to driver:
THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN MODIFIED TO ENHANCE OFF-ROAD PERFORMANCE AND HAS UNIQUE HANDLING CHARACTERISTICS. BECAUSE OF THE HIGHER CENTER OF GRAVITY AND LARGER TIRES, THIS VEHICLE HANDLES AND REACTS DIFFERENTLY THAN MANY PASSENGER CARS, BOTH ON AND OFF ROAD. YOU MUST DRIVE IT SAFELY! EXTREE CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN TO PREVENT VEHICLE ROLLOVER OR LOSS OF CONTROL WHICH CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. AVOID SUDDEN SHARP TURNS OR ABRUPT MANEUVERS!
FASTEN SEAT BELTS AND REDUCE SPEED!
This is on a sticker that you are required to put in your Explorer.
My Warnings:
Do not hope that you can get this done in 2 1/2 days.
It is not possible, I think there is something about Murphy's Law on this. Make sure you have enough tools, and even if you think you do, buy some more.
Make sure you have all the parts that should come with the lift, my lift kit was missing the rear anti-sway bar links which I had no intention of installing anyway. I
would even go through the directions a few times and look at what they are talking about on your Explorer. When drilling on the frame on the drivers side be carefull of the fuel lines.
USE These instructions WITH Superlift's Instructions
Okay now to the instructions.
For tools I would recomend renting a torch. If this is not possible make sure you have a couple of disks for your grinder in case one goes bad or runs out. Be sure to have plenty of drill bits of many sizes. Have some high quality punches on hand and a air punch with good bits. Those are a few of the "odd" tools that you may need. Jack stands and bottle jacks and floor jacks also come in handy. For the rest of your Explorer your will need an assortment of Metric and SAE wrenches and sockets. Something that can come in handy allthough I did not use much would be an air impact wrench. Even though this should not be mentioned I would also have on hand a Chiltons or some other manual of some sort.
Now after all has been evaluated and you are sure that you either have all the tools you need or have a car that you can go get them in you are ready to proceed.
I will write these out of my own instructions an adding in Superlifts from time to time. I will start from the Front to the Back.
1. Remove the front Anti-Sway Bar
2. Loosen your lug nuts on the front wheels so that you can remove them.
3. Put your Explorer up under jack stands. This is done by putting your jack stands under the very front of the frame. These jack stands need to be very tall. Superlift calls the front end of your frame "frame horns".
4. Chock rear wheels and put your Explorer in park or gear and set the parking break.
5. Now put a jack uner each of the axle halves and raise them up slightly.
6. Remove the tires.
(this is where I would change Superlifts Instructions)
7. Remove the rivets that hold on the rear of the radius arms. If you have a torch I cannot tell you how to do it because I did not use a torch. But if you have a combo of a drill, air chissel, and grinder, I can walk you through what I would do.
a) The first thing I did here was to grind a flat top on the heads.
b) (Now an angle drill would work best but you can use a normal drill) Drill out the center of the rivets with a small bit to start the hole I would recomend something around 1/8".
c) Next thing I would do is use a 1/4" bit and re-drill these rivets out.
d) Now grind off the heads on both sides using your grinder an air chissel.
8. Once all those rivets are removed have lunch.
9. Remove the crossmember and get rid of it.
10. Now you should have two Radius arms hanging there make sure that they are supported enough to keep the axle from falling over.
11. Remove your shocks from both sides and put in your discard pile.
12. I would recomend getting the new break lines when you do this lift, so I would just take the break lines off at where they attatch on the axle and put a C-Clamp or Vise-Grip on them to keep from leaking fluid everywhere.
13. Superlift recomends disconecting the front end of your driveshaft, I did not do this, do to the fact I could not get it off. I had no problems doing this.
14. Remove the coil springs. This takes a fairly good sized wrench.
15. Now you should have everything removed except those radius arms, and by now you have seen that great big huge bolt sticking out from the top of the axle. Now that thing is in there tight! It is locktited in and torqued beyond belife! My dad had to sit down and put the wrench on there and push with his legs, and even then he could barely do it! So put some WD-40 in there and go get a pepsi.
16. Once you have those removed you have 4 more rivets to go!!! Use the same idea to get those out as I mentioned before, except you will have to use an angle drill to get to those.
Now its put back toghether time.
1. Remove the rivets on the cab mounts. WHAT? I have to remove more rivets? Yes I am sorry.
2. Put the Radius arm brackets on, some of the holes are very tough to drill, and I did not put the top bolts in. I will probably weld those on later.
3. Put in both Axle Pivot brackets, make sure you have the correct ones.
4. The next thing to do is to remove your existing bump stops and put the spacers in. Now my drivers side bump stop would not come out and I finnaly had to cut it out, and then weld it on the spacer.
5. Put those new long radius arm's in.
6. Put in the new Coil's.
7. Now put the shocks in.
8. Now for the brake hoses you are supposed to put some heat shrink on them, along with some clamps. Apparently Superlift does not always include these and the shop I purchases the lift from said they have found a better way to do this. Using a wire clamp which they wrap around the break line loosely, and then zip tie that to the spring.
9. Now they want you to purge your brake system, which is outlined in almost all car manuals.
10. The dropped Pitman arm was something I could not install due to the fact I did not have the right kind of puller to get the old one off. I let an alignment shop do this.
11. Superlift wants you to put a frame crossmember back up where the old radius arm crossmember went. I put this in there not for their reasons but thinking it was a good basher bar for off-roading.
12. Install your tires.
13. Re-install the sway bar with the weight on the vehicle, I decided at this time to go ahead and use the front sway bar.
14. Align the truck good enough so that you can take it to a pro to get the rest aligned.
REAR
1. Put some jacks stands right in front of where the springs go towards the front of the vehicle.
2. If your spare is still under your vehicle lower it and get it out of there.
3. Remove your shocks. My shocks were still the stockers, and had the bolts in the top stamped in. I had to run out and buy some new bolts for the new shocks.
4. Remove the U-Bolt nuts.
5. Remove the rear springs bottom bolts on the hangers from the frame. If it is not possible to remove the bottom use the top ones on the hangers.
6. Now take out the brake line and clamp it like you did in the front.
7. Remove the ABS connector and all that other stuff up there.
8. Take apart your parking brake enough so that you can roll the axle back and under your springs.
9. Remove the bolts holding your driveshaft on, and pull it off your axle.
1. Roll the axle back underneath the springs.
2. Set the Springs back on the new brakets getting the sping bolt in the bracket hole.
3. Cut the old ears off the old spring brackets that used to hold the shocks with a grinder.
4. Bolt up the u-bolts taking care to use the right size socket. I used the wrong size on one bolt.
5. Re-hook up the brakes, abs connector, and the parking brake cable.
6. Re-attatch your driveshaft. The majority of people out there say there is no need for a new driveshaft, but I needed to have one with a CV joint due to a large vibration noise after installation.
Okay thats about all I can tall you for now, except to go out and enjoy your "new" Explorer!
